Phoenix Gold Phorum

So guys are really feedin these things that much power? I've built a temporary box for one of my rsd12's, 1.7ish cu.ft. with about a lb. of polyfill just like suggested. It's being powered by an Alpine MRV 1000. I started with DMM method around 500 watts, but I was getting some pretty nasty popping on some of the lower notes so ended up setting gains (turning down) by ear till popping was gone. Also, its not really crushing the lows like I expected.... I don't know how new this sub is (both bought from this forum ) but is there a break in period for the rsd subs too??

trust your ears not your meter. I will always feed a sub too much power before I feed it too little. Keep the signal clean and out of clipping and you will be fine but using your meter to tune your amp is like trying to do fine carving with a 15 lb sledge and a flat-head screw driver.

well, there's a breakin in period for every sub if it's new. Also, remember the RSD isn't an spl sub it's an sq sub. Not to say that it's a wimp by any means, but it's not a crusher. It has great low frequency extention compared to most subs, but isn't going to beat your brains in at any frequency. It should play 20-25hz with just as much ease (and silky smoothness) as 40-50hz. As far as power goes, it should be able to handle 500 watts all day, but perhaps a box that large doesn't provide enough acoustic suspension to allow for the extra power handling...so maybe sticking with 400 in that box would be better. anyways, hope that was helpful and i hope you get yer sub sounding the way you want

ttocs wrote:trust your ears not your meter. I will always feed a sub too much power before I feed it too little. Keep the signal clean and out of clipping and you will be fine but using your meter to tune your amp is like trying to do fine carving with a 15 lb sledge and a flat-head screw driver.

I usually just use the meter to get me started then my ears as a final judgement, but honestly never had to turn an amp down before, usually end up turning up if anything. I don't have an o scope for 100% accuracy but I think I know when a driver isn't happy lol.

capitolj80 wrote:well, there's a breakin in period for every sub if it's new. Also, remember the RSD isn't an spl sub it's an sq sub. Not to say that it's a wimp by any means, but it's not a crusher. It has great low frequency extention compared to most subs, but isn't going to beat your brains in at any frequency. It should play 20-25hz with just as much ease (and silky smoothness) as 40-50hz. As far as power goes, it should be able to handle 500 watts all day, but perhaps a box that large doesn't provide enough acoustic suspension to allow for the extra power handling...so maybe sticking with 400 in that box would be better. anyways, hope that was helpful and i hope you get yer sub sounding the way you want

I know these aren't spl subs and I'm fine with that, but they aren't hitting 20-30hz even close to the way they play 30-40hz. Anything around 40 hz sounds really really nice, smooth like u said and with decent impact, but the lower stuff just doesn't seem to be there, even with the bass cube. I was gonna use one rsd on a x600.1 but after this I think I'll use them both on the xenon. Maybe that'll help . Starting to think I might be a basshead (for the low shit anyways lol) Need more. Anyways, this is just temp so it'll have to do for now, was just expecting a little more that's all. Thanks for replies guys.

isn't 1.7 cubes a bit big for that sub with out the poly fill? Take the fill out, hell even throw some bracing or something to take up some space and see what happens.

That' exactly what I'm gonna try. I just went with 1.8 net cuz that's what I found in my search that ppl were having good results with, but I think I'll try and get it down to like 1.2-1.5 cubes and see what happens. There's more then one post saying rsd12+600watts+1.8cubes= 135db on music so I tried it. Maybe 135db just isn't enough for me . I'll try the blocking and see how it goes.

Blad09 wrote:That' exactly what I'm gonna try. I just went with 1.8 net cuz that's what I found in my search that ppl were having good results with, but I think I'll try and get it down to like 1.2-1.5 cubes and see what happens. There's more then one post saying rsd12+600watts+1.8cubes= 135db on music so I tried it. Maybe 135db just isn't enough for me . I'll try the blocking and see how it goes.

I seriously doubt that sub would hit 135Db on a term lab meter. maybe 130.....

SPL numbers mean nothing to me if I'm happy with how it sounds, I'm just not quite satisfied. I'm leaning towards building a vented box for the 2 rsd12's. I don't ever recall being disappointed with vented/ported boxes, and I have lots of room to do so (98 explorer).

Vented boxes when done right/well are tough to beat IMO.
I prefer Round flared ports, slotted are swell too.

...

1.8 on the classic (silver) RSDs is perfect, but that's way too big if it's a comp. Generally speaking they do pretty nicely on 500w. Very smooth over the whole range.

Check for tinsel lead slap on the back of the speaker. I forget if those ones get woven leads or not.

stipud wrote:1.8 on the classic (silver) RSDs is perfect, but that's way too big if it's a comp. Generally speaking they do pretty nicely on 500w. Very smooth over the whole range.

Check for tinsel lead slap on the back of the speaker. I forget if those ones get woven leads or not.

OG Rsd12 svc. I'll def check out the leads. Thanks

i always ran mine on a xenon 600.1...

that thing railed pretty hard....i know its not as accurate as a real microphone, but i could hit 138 on a scoshe mic playing music (sealed at about 1.6, no fill)

I'm just gonna run the box through the table saw and remove the necessary measurement to make it around 1.5 cubes before displacement, leave the fill out and see how that works. Should be able to give it at least the 600 watts that way. If I'm still not happy..... I'll go ported, or dbl up on drivers, or both lol. We'll see. Oh and don't get me wrong, this sub does sound nice I just don't think I've reached its potential quite yet.

You can also put a piece of wood or some other solid object in the box to take up space with out having to make perminant modifications to test it out.

I tried a box with 2 15s (Alpine type R). I had the 15s on a single plane, used 3/4 mdf and no internal bracing. Then, I thought the sound wasn't as tight as a single 15. I noticed the face had noticeable flex, so cut the box up, made a bunch of internal bracing and the difference was crazy.

If sealed and the face with the sub mounted is pretty big, it may need a bit of bracing. I think it is especially important in a sealed and with the low end of the freq range.

Outside box measurements are 3/4"mdf, 20"x15"x14" deep, single baffle, no internal bracing . I guess I may have rushed through this box a bit, maybe cuz I knew it was a temporary thing. So... I'll figure out how much 2x4 I need to eat up half a cube or so and use it as bracing and filler. I will update when completed, although it might not be right away. Many thanks for all the help/tips/advice.

Using a 2x4 for bracing, I had to use lag bolts (1/2" hex head) x 3". I also used all thread and washers/nuts to help hold the box together... You may not need to go to that extent, but I would suggest the all thread and washers/nuts to see if you like the sound of the current config. Supposedly, a bigger box gives a bit more linear response for sq nuts. Similar to a free air sound with a box bigger than recommended.... ...and so I've read...

Also, the bigger the box, it will require less power to reach mechanical limits. The poly fill helps make the box seem bigger. If you have some more MDF laying around, try to make a face around the sub to give it a counter sunk look, putting screws and glue generously simulating a 1 1/2" MDF...

I like the threaded rod idea, but I'm gonna go for 2x4, with some PL Premuim and #10 3" screws, framed as T's from front to back then to each side. This way it will eat up more volume than the rod would. The baffle is just silicone and screws so it's easy to remove. Gonna try and get to it this afternoon, should only take 15 mins to put together. We'll see

Just an update. I got my box down to about 1.55 cubes and it sounded awesome, but I still wasn't quite satisfied so... I swapped out the Alpine for a x600.1 and it made a bit of a difference too, but still sounded ''weak''. Next I added a pld1 and HOLY F@#$ ME!!! I couldn't be ANY happier with how it sounds. It freakin pounds. I can't believe the difference with the line driver and its not even at the halfway point (amp gains @ min.) I'm actually afraid to go any higher with it cuz it feels and sounds like its ripping my vehicle apart. I absolutely love it. I was having my doubts before the pld, but those are all gone now. Can't wait to have a pound session later and go through some of my fave discs.

Blad09 wrote:Just an update. I got my box down to about 1.55 cubes and it sounded awesome, but I still wasn't quite satisfied so... I swapped out the Alpine for a x600.1 and it made a bit of a difference too, but still sounded ''weak''. Next I added a pld1 and HOLY F@#$ ME!!! I couldn't be ANY happier with how it sounds. It freakin pounds. I can't believe the difference with the line driver and its not even at the halfway point (amp gains @ min.) I'm actually afraid to go any higher with it cuz it feels and sounds like its ripping my vehicle apart. I absolutely love it. I was having my doubts before the pld, but those are all gone now. Can't wait to have a pound session later and go through some of my fave discs.

Techmaster PEB

dj magik mike

bass 305
power supply

I saw techmaster (which I downloaded a few months ago) and figured I am not the only bass head, hehehe.

Dubstep, the new bass fix for me.




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I've had the techmaster and peb disc's for almost 20years, that's how old they are. I still use them almost daily. Man I'm getting old.