Phoenix Gold Phorum

Hi all I'm here to ask for advice on how to proceed with the arrangement of my ms 2250.
I must say that the amp is stopped for a while and I wanted to repaint the heatsink with FAS finish I've seen here do Matthew (mhyde71).
I wanted to ask but since I have to disassemble the amp to send it to the States is better to use then reassembling the silpads or pasta cooling.
In the case of silpads where you can buy it?
Thank you for your help.
Greetings to all from Florence
Louis

silpads, contact: Nico Boom

you can see the pads under them and I think they are recomended. Is it that they do NOT conduct to the sink like the paste does? Eric will be in shortly I am sure.

Also are you going to show off the bck or the plexi side like everyone esle likes too? fanking it and showing the bottom I am not sure wiill get you the effect you want. But it is hard to turn down the frank powder hell with my RSD and Ti install I would love to find a place to put it but I think it would look wierd in my car.

Use silpads all the way!!! Looking a lot nicer, they are non cundictive and u save your self a lot of troubles cleaning the paste off your fingers.

joerg wrote:Use silpads all the way!!! Looking a lot nicer, they are non cundictive and u save your self a lot of troubles cleaning the paste off your fingers.

joerg I have a question for you in Pm.

JayGold wrote:silpads, contact: Nico Boom

Thanks for the help, I contacted Nico Boom pm I hope answer me

I ask you a question what is the minimum distance that must be in accordance with the heatsink from the fund for the proper functioning? There are still fans that push air.

Ok now first time I think didn't understand you, still really good though! I think you are asking hom much space you need under the heatsink to allow air to blow and the amp too cool with the fans?

ttocs wrote:Ok now first time I think didn't understand you, still really good though! I think you are asking hom much space you need under the heatsink to allow air to blow and the amp too cool with the fans?

I was thinking of leaving 1:38 inch.
I did not put the photo sorry

honestly the more room you can leave the better it will be. Keep it as big as you can with out stickin out too far. Couple of squirrel cage fans and you would be golden(good). Just in case squirrel cage fans do not translate well they look like this.

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/V ... _7c3720392

Low profile for installs like this

Silpads work great on most MS amps, and are easy to work with. However, in the case of the original MS2250, silpads don't conduct the heat well enough. If you put the amp under heavy load, the transistors can overheat and fail.

Instead of silpads, PG used paste, as the heatsink on the MS2250 is anodized, not painted, so its surface is non conductive. Paste is significantly more efficient at thermal transfer than a silpad is.

In the MSTA amps PG took a similar but slightly different approach, using thin anodized strips with paste between the two layers.

An original MS2250 will actually work just fine with silpads, "IF" you don't drive it hard. Running a 4 ohm mono subwoofer load on a MS2250 with silpads may result in failure.

I just received my 100 silpads from Nico....Indeed you can order them also and pay him with paypal....

I suggest when you replace the caps, replace also R345 and R346 with a 5W same value resistor,

and away from the board, cause they get hot anyway. i did this on my second ms2250 amp last month also ....

Good luck man, take you're time with it...

Eric D wrote:Silpads work great on most MS amps, and are easy to work with. However, in the case of the original MS2250, silpads don't conduct the heat well enough. If you put the amp under heavy load, the transistors can overheat and fail.

Instead of silpads, PG used paste, as the heatsink on the MS2250 is anodized, not painted, so its surface is non conductive. Paste is significantly more efficient at thermal transfer than a silpad is.

In the MSTA amps PG took a similar but slightly different approach, using thin anodized strips with paste between the two layers.

An original MS2250 will actually work just fine with silpads, "IF" you don't drive it hard. Running a 4 ohm mono subwoofer load on a MS2250 with silpads may result in failure.

So I advise the pasta that is significantly more efficient heat transfer of a sil pad. Right?
What can I use thermal paste??
thanks

ttocs wrote:honestly the more room you can leave the better it will be. Keep it as big as you can with out stickin out too far. Couple of squirrel cage fans and you would be golden(good). Just in case squirrel cage fans do not translate well they look like this.

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/V ... _7c3720392

Low profile for installs like this

Can you tell me what is the distance shrouded + fans of the original 'ms2250

luigi66 wrote:

Eric D wrote:Silpads work great on most MS amps, and are easy to work with. However, in the case of the original MS2250, silpads don't conduct the heat well enough. If you put the amp under heavy load, the transistors can overheat and fail.

Instead of silpads, PG used paste, as the heatsink on the MS2250 is anodized, not painted, so its surface is non conductive. Paste is significantly more efficient at thermal transfer than a silpad is.

In the MSTA amps PG took a similar but slightly different approach, using thin anodized strips with paste between the two layers.

An original MS2250 will actually work just fine with silpads, "IF" you don't drive it hard. Running a 4 ohm mono subwoofer load on a MS2250 with silpads may result in failure.

So I advise the pasta that is significantly more efficient heat transfer of a sil pad. Right?
What can I use thermal paste??
thanks

Thermal paste is more efficient than a sil pad. A good example of this in practice is with computer processors. If you put a silpad (even the best of them) on a computer CPU it would burn up. The heat does not transfer fast enough.

But, you cannot use paste on an amplifier which also require electrical isolation of the device from the heatsink. A good example is the older MS275, or the original MS2125. If you put thermal paste on these amps, and no pads, the transistors will be electrically shorted to the heatsink, and the amplifier will not work (transistors will fail quick).

So, the rule of thumb I have stuck with is to use the same method the amp came with stock from PG. In the case of an original MS2250, that would be paste. In the case of a Frank amp N stein, that would be pads. For a MS275 (older version), pads, and paste on the newer version.

Eric D wrote:

luigi66 wrote:

Eric D wrote:Silpads work great on most MS amps, and are easy to work with. However, in the case of the original MS2250, silpads don't conduct the heat well enough. If you put the amp under heavy load, the transistors can overheat and fail.

Instead of silpads, PG used paste, as the heatsink on the MS2250 is anodized, not painted, so its surface is non conductive. Paste is significantly more efficient at thermal transfer than a silpad is.

In the MSTA amps PG took a similar but slightly different approach, using thin anodized strips with paste between the two layers.

An original MS2250 will actually work just fine with silpads, "IF" you don't drive it hard. Running a 4 ohm mono subwoofer load on a MS2250 with silpads may result in failure.

So I advise the pasta that is significantly more efficient heat transfer of a sil pad. Right?
What can I use thermal paste??
thanks

Thermal paste is more efficient than a sil pad. A good example of this in practice is with computer processors. If you put a silpad (even the best of them) on a computer CPU it would burn up. The heat does not transfer fast enough.

But, you cannot use paste on an amplifier which also require electrical isolation of the device from the heatsink. A good example is the older MS275, or the original MS2125. If you put thermal paste on these amps, and no pads, the transistors will be electrically shorted to the heatsink, and the amplifier will not work (transistors will fail quick).

So, the rule of thumb I have stuck with is to use the same method the amp came with stock from PG. In the case of an original MS2250, that would be paste. In the case of a Frank amp N stein, that would be pads. For a MS275 (older version), pads, and paste on the newer version.

If using the paste thermal I thought this what do you think??
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm


Asked if I do not use silpads use thermal paste right?
The silpads use them only on models that have already set there, or even better to use thermal paste instead of silpads?
Thanks Louis

PS I forgot Eric D I saw your works are really great, shame that we are far away and not know if I agree to the repairs or I'll send my amp.

I would take erics advice on the subj over my own, and many others on here

ttocs wrote:honestly the more room you can leave the better it will be. Keep it as big as you can with out stickin out too far. Couple of squirrel cage fans and you would be golden(good). Just in case squirrel cage fans do not translate well they look like this.

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/V ... _7c3720392

Low profile for installs like this

But this is not a 12 volt? I do not think so for the car to go right or wrong?

I have no idea what voltage the fan is I just posted a pic of that that type of fan looks like. STinger makes some nice ones that are 12v.

ttocs wrote:I have no idea what voltage the fan is I just posted a pic of that that type of fan looks like. STinger makes some nice ones that are 12v.

The stinger seems very noisy indeed has dBA35 Sound Level, then you might as well install a enermax from 12 which has a greater air flow and a lower noise level.
Enter the features.