Phoenix Gold Phorum

Who can tell me the name, GIS search, or find a vendor selling the brackets holding this sub box in place?

If you have found other brackets commonly used for the same purpose post them up so I can see options.

why not just go for 2 small angles......placed "under" the box, it would not be so visible then

pretty sure those are just framing guides that you would get from home depot and yes, there are alot better options. As he said some L-brackets would be just as solid and easier to hide. Have the bottom part go under the box to hide it and it will look 10x better. Of course you could always just take the sub out, shoot some screws through the bottom of the box and then mount your sub into the box and not see any fasteners and still get a strong hold

I always do the remove sub, bolt through box option.

I use all stainless hardware, with nylock nuts inside the box, and I put extra large fender washers on the underside, with a glob of caulk on each washer prior to putting the bolts in.

Just be sure to not drill through your fuel tank...

Here is an example of a truck box I did years back, it is the same concept...

http://www.soundbuggy.com/Eric/chuck/Wo ... losure.htm

I had a customer come into one of my shops to pull a stereo that had been installed years ago by the previous installers. It was in the back of a mustang hatchback, as soon as we pulled the screws out from the box holding it down all we smelled was fuel.

Right after Rule #1 of ALWAYS fusing power wires, is rule #2, ALWAYS check what is on the other side before drilling. I was going to mount some pieces under my own mustang two years ago. I know the car well enough to know that there is nothing on the passengers side floor except the fuel send/return line. What are the chances of hitting those right? I started the screw with that thought and then my guardian install angel yelled "RULE #2" The screw had only barely started to go through the metal, so I stopped and looked on the other side. I will be damned if I had kept going it would have gone straight through one of the lines. Moved it 1/2" over and all was good in the universe

When I put the sub box in my Taurus I jacked the car up, and drilled from the bottom into the box. I figured I did not care where it ended up in the box, I just did not want to go the other way and end up in the fuel tank.

where do you get this crazy logic from? I had to do the same on a customers car once but for a slightly different reason. He wanted me to put a small but nice custom system in his regular cab ranger, with out making ANY holes in the truck.... 2 Zxti amps and a 10" and it was full. In the end I had to drill one hole(took him 2 days to think about it), for the box I found a factory hole in the bottom and drilled from bottom/top like you did for the same reason.

Well I was looking for a quick fix as my current enclosure slides all over the trunk. Upon further inspection even if I go to drill through the trunk floor I'll have to remove my exhaust, heat shields and some underbody molding just to secure it. This quick fix was suppose to be part of Phase 1 of my install, now it seems I'll have to move into Phase 2 before its planned date. If I go through the effort of removing said vehicle items I may as well start building my false floor....now to section off some time.

That looks like a Suby, which those brackets would be sitting right above the spare tire well.
I agree with ttocs that those are framing brackets, which any hardware store will have a large variety of in their lumber sections.

There are always options for mounting enclosures without drilling, just a matter of how much work you are willing to do for it.
What car are we talking about mounting an enclosure down in?

The suby pictured above looks like the brackets were just mounted to the trunk floor cover panel (or just sitting in place).
Build a new trunk floor by tracing the OEM cover panel onto a piece of wood and cut it out. Would be a much more solid option for mounting to.

There are also countless holes in the deck lid (below rear window) that are threaded, like car seat brackets, which you can replace the bolt with a longer one and use the excess length inside the trunk as a new anchor point.
You can also use seat & seat belt mounting bolts on the floor, with will be almost centrally located in vehicles with fold down rear seats. Run a bracket up along the floor and bolt it to the back of the enclosure.

Im not a fan of bolting through a box unless it can be undone (& removed) from outside of the enclosure without having to remove the sub. Some subs or enclosures are a nightmare to remove inside of a vehicle. Especially with subs like the Elite where there is soo much length & rear weight, you are just asking for a screwdriver slip when trying to hold it flush to a box, logo leveled, trying to align it with pre-drilled holes, and all with one hand while the other tries to thread the screw/bolt.

audiophyle_247 wrote:That looks like a Suby, which those brackets would be sitting right above the spare tire well.
I agree with ttocs that those are framing brackets, which any hardware store will have a large variety of in their lumber sections.

There are always options for mounting enclosures without drilling, just a matter of how much work you are willing to do for it.
What car are we talking about mounting an enclosure down in?

The suby pictured above looks like the brackets were just mounted to the trunk floor cover panel (or just sitting in place).
Build a new trunk floor by tracing the OEM cover panel onto a piece of wood and cut it out. Would be a much more solid option for mounting to.

There are also countless holes in the deck lid (below rear window) that are threaded, like car seat brackets, which you can replace the bolt with a longer one and use the excess length inside the trunk as a new anchor point.
You can also use seat & seat belt mounting bolts on the floor, with will be almost centrally located in vehicles with fold down rear seats. Run a bracket up along the floor and bolt it to the back of the enclosure.

Im not a fan of bolting through a box unless it can be undone (& removed) from outside of the enclosure without having to remove the sub. Some subs or enclosures are a nightmare to remove inside of a vehicle. Especially with subs like the Elite where there is soo much length & rear weight, you are just asking for a screwdriver slip when trying to hold it flush to a box, logo leveled, trying to align it with pre-drilled holes, and all with one hand while the other tries to thread the screw/bolt.

Vehicle is a 2000 Subaru Impreza sedan.
I was looking to mount the enclosure to the factory spare tire cover for the winter and use 2 quick disconnects to unbolt the cover from the factory interior body holes it's currently pegged to. Now that I have been evaluating the trunk space I'm leaning toward what you said in regards to building a new trunk floor from the same spare tire cover. It's just a matter of finding the best mounting brackets so that I don't hack the enclosure up or weaken the seams.

spare tire cover isn't mounted though is it? If you can't go down, then look to the sides or up. I have used 1"-2" aluminum flat-stock bent into shapes to mount alot of my gear. Its thick enough that you will need to put it in a vice and use a hammer to help bend it so its strong enough to handle a pretty good load. Mayber some U/box-shaped pieces bolted to the top of the box that could mount to the bottom of the package tray.

I assume that is not a picture of your trunk?
Do you have a pic of what your trunk & box look like?
Im sure there is a simple & easy way. If you rebuild the trunk floor, you can actually design the brace into the floor & leave the box completely unmodified.
Have a space the size of the box recessed into the floor & the box will slip right in & stay put, wont stay if jumping curbs or speedbumps but probably be fine over 90% of all driving. (& still be relatively easy to pull out)

ttocs wrote:spare tire cover isn't mounted though is it? If you can't go down, then look to the sides or up. I have used 1"-2" aluminum flat-stock bent into shapes to mount alot of my gear. Its thick enough that you will need to put it in a vice and use a hammer to help bend it so its strong enough to handle a pretty good load. Mayber some U/box-shaped pieces bolted to the top of the box that could mount to the bottom of the package tray.

Spare tire cover is 1/4" particle board, held in place by 2 pegs under trunk latch.

audiophyle_247 wrote:I assume that is not a picture of your trunk?
Do you have a pic of what your trunk & box look like?
Im sure there is a simple & easy way. If you rebuild the trunk floor, you can actually design the brace into the floor & leave the box completely unmodified.
Have a space the size of the box recessed into the floor & the box will slip right in & stay put, wont stay if jumping curbs or speedbumps but probably be fine over 90% of all driving. (& still be relatively easy to pull out)

Not my trunk in above pics.
I only have a pic of sound deadened trunk with a temp amp rack, can't post until later today.
I like the idea of building a brace around the spare tire/well to secure the enclosure.
Once again, this has to be somewhat of a quick/simple design, going forward in spring I will be heading towards a false floor/angled amp rack in the spare tire well for a MS2125 & MS2250 along with finding a way to secure a beautiful CNC cut tiger striped mohagany venneered 10" enclosure for my TC Sounds OEM 10.

it will be better then not having it mounted but 1/4" isn't going to hold it if something happens like an accident. I use to just throw my stuff it and call it a day but more and more now I find myself looking at stuff I am building and asking what might happen if a worst case scenario like an accident. In the case of when I made the mounts for my batteries I made sure that they were supported solidly on every side and the top to hold them still.

ttocs wrote:it will be better then not having it mounted but 1/4" isn't going to hold it if something happens like an accident. I use to just throw my stuff it and call it a day but more and more now I find myself looking at stuff I am building and asking what might happen if a worst case scenario like an accident. In the case of when I made the mounts for my batteries I made sure that they were supported solidly on every side and the top to hold them still.

I'm with you...and was planning to secure the 1/4" cover to the trunk floor more securely as the enclosure weight and vehicle G-forces would thrash the cover if not.

I was in a crash back in 2008 and was extremely glad I incorporated bracing into my sub box. 45 mph to 0 mph in a fraction of a second and everything stayed exactly in place. In addition to the metal brace seen in the link below, I also bolted through the trunk floor.

http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php? ... 1&start=25