MS1000TA Install. Need Help Pairing Subs & Components

[chillibear]

I have a brand new MS1000 TA I am installing in my QX56. Plan on using Blues Audio 6.5 Components for Mids/Highs and would like to run 4 JL Audio 8" W6. Will (4)of these JL DVC 3 ohm speakers be to much for one side of this amp due to the ohm load. Not sure how wiring DVC 3ohm subs will load the amp. Trying to stay at the recommended 2 ohm load on the amp. I planned on using the other side for the Mids/Highs. Is this a good pairing?

[Eric D]

If you are running 4 subs which have dual 3 ohm coils, I would wire the coils in series (6 ohms), and then parallel 2 subs into each channel of the side you are using for subs (3 ohm stereo load). At a 3 ohm stereo load the amp will run much cooler, but will still generate significant power.

Each channel of a MS1000TA will do about 300W into 3 ohms. You would be getting 150W a sub, which IMO is a good amount of power for 8s.

[chillibear]

First, thank you for taking the time to reply. JK tells me your a good source for knowledge. So with that being said, what would you do with that side of the amp to get the most out of it, sub wise? IE: different brand, diff series, diff size, or diff quantity?

[zeropoint0.5]

First, thank you for taking the time to reply. JK tells me your a good source for knowledge. So with that being said, what would you do with that side of the amp to get the most out of it, sub wise? IE: different brand, diff series, diff size, or diff quantity?

depending on you're personal taste, if you want to stay with jl audio..... i'm for sure you will get more output and go much lower

then the 4x 8inch subs by replacing them with a single jl 12W7 in a HO vented box....there impressive.....on sound and output power.....

then you load the amp at 3 ohm mono .......this combo will not be a problem as long as you"re electrical system is heavy enough......

just a suggestion......If you can fan cool the amp it is always even better......


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjaVPN6qj5I


watch this video of a 12W7 until the end.... the excursion at the 25hz tone is really impressive.....(and the 13.5W7 gois even lower and harder.....)


But i'm guessing the 13W7 needs a little bid more power,and the box is certainly bigger, so the 12W7 would be you're best option if you want to spend some

money at you're install....

[chillibear]

So in your opinion, would I be better off running 2 W712" or 4 W610"? It is going in the back row of an Infinity QX56 so I will have no issue with space, but wanted to do something as ascetically impressive as well as functional. I want to go with SQ over SPL. Also with a high end component speaker, would you spend the money for a Bit1 or any factory integration to achieve SQ? Or does the MS have enough speaker control to get away with a basic crossover. I will be using the factory head unit to avoid cutting up the dash.

[zeropoint0.5]

So in your opinion, would I be better off running 2 W712" or 4 W610"? It is going in the back row of an Infinity QX56 so I will have no issue with space, but wanted to do something as ascetically impressive as well as functional. I want to go with SQ over SPL. Also with a high end component speaker, would you spend the money for a Bit1 or any factory integration to achieve SQ? Or does the MS have enough speaker control to get away with a basic crossover. I will be using the factory head unit to avoid cutting up the dash.

you wrote you will just use one ms1000Ta, or better, just a 4 channel amp....

unless you will use another amp(s), you will use one side for speakers, the other side for sub duty....

you'll have enough with one 12W7, believe me...... the amp will feed it 800-1000w rms at 3 ohm....

if you would work with two 12W7, you need the whole ms1000ta to feed it.... one side is not enough power !!!!

i just give you an possibility, that's all.....

for the (audison i guess) bit one, i don't have experience with it, but i'm guessing this is a processor to go

for a full active system, so with just 2 channels for speakers, i think there are better choices from audiocontrol.....

if possible, maybe it is better to try to put a good alpine or pioneer headunit in place of the factory stuff....

getting a signal from speaker outputs will never be as good as from rca outputs.....

you're system will be so good as the weakest link........

[chillibear]

I agree with you. Head unit is the way to go. The way the QX56 is made, the buttons and knobs stick through holes in the dash bezel. The actual unit and face is hidden, so I would have to cut up the dash to do that. The radio controls are surrounded by this as well as the heating air and many other buttons. It's too nice and expensive of a car to be cutting up like that, so I was going to
Go with a factory integration to accomplish cleaning up this signal issue. JL makes a clean sweep, and sounds like audio control may have one also as you stated. Factory integration is new to me so wasn't sure if the bit 1 was worth the money. Its good to know to only put one W7 12" on the amp, instead of overloading and under powering something. There was no one left from Pheonix pre buy out, that was able to offer any help on the old MS amps. they hadnt even heard of a MS or Frank. lol. So sorry for all the noob questions. Can I accomplish superior SQ from that sub in an entirely lexan box? And also do I need to run 1/0 guage wire to the amp? I will have to get the alternator output specs, but what else do I need to add for connectivity and power storage? IE; how many batteries and/or caps to sustain? I originally wanted to go with cast acrylic tubes to use as enclosures to make the install unique and different, but after watching your video, it seems like a ported box to spec is the way to go.

[zeropoint0.5]

I agree with you. Head unit is the way to go. The way the QX56 is made, the buttons and knobs stick through holes in the dash bezel. The actual unit and face is hidden, so I would have to cut up the dash to do that. The radio controls are surrounded by this as well as the heating air and many other buttons. It's too nice and expensive of a car to be cutting up like that, so I was going to
Go with a factory integration to accomplish cleaning up this signal issue. JL makes a clean sweep, and sounds like audio control may have one also as you stated. Factory integration is new to me so wasn't sure if the bit 1 was worth the money. Its good to know to only put one W7 12" on the amp, instead of overloading and under powering something. There was no one left from Pheonix pre buy out, that was able to offer any help on the old MS amps. they hadnt even heard of a MS or Frank. lol. So sorry for all the noob questions. Can I accomplish superior SQ from that sub in an entirely lexan box? And also do I need to run 1/0 guage wire to the amp? I will have to get the alternator output specs, but what else do I need to add for connectivity and power storage? IE; how many batteries and/or caps to sustain? I originally wanted to go with cast acrylic tubes to use as enclosures to make the install unique and different, but after watching your video, it seems like a ported box to spec is the way to go.

you haven't asked any noob questions !!!!! You're just a smart men asking for some info first from other people before you could make a mistake....

yes it is frustrating you can't replace the factory headunit.... yes jl audio has also a clean sweep produkt..... so you have to start from the speaker

outputs and convert the signal there to a low level (rca). you need a crossover(for example ax204)to get low and highpass signals and using a lpl44

to adjust the volume of the sub.... just a standard example, of course other things will work also....

prepare you're electrical system for 2000W rms class a/b, so yes, run 1/0 gauge from the front to the back, don't forget the big 3 in the front (ground)

i suggest you put a deep cycle battery in the back, around 100ah or close to that ( stinger/odyssey/kinetik or something else) use 2 x 1 farad for each

side as capacitor, put them as close to the amp as possible...... i'm guessing here you want to play loud also....u will be fine with the stock alternator......

if you don't drive much, use a little night charger to keep the batteries fully loaded.......yes for those jlW7's, the HO vented box or

there recommanded vented box will give you the best result.....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAVuPBOIqD8

i love this video.... beautiful made enclosure.....if you could make a simular one, you'll be fine for sure.....

[chillibear]

I think this will about suffice my craving for Skool!! I am getting ready to checkout my online carts. I have so far with your guidance, 2 JL W612s 4ohm DVC, a JL Cleansweep Factory Integration with 130 band eq. JL Cleansweep signal summing device, 2 sets of MB Quart Q Line 6.5 components, a Stinger 50 farad cap, 1 optima yellow top gel, 1 Stinger 1/0 install kit. The box is being built out of cast acrylic to JL spec, ported. Does it sound like a wrap? Oh also, with the JL equip, should i add the Pheonix EQ-215x crossover, or would it be waisted money because of the JL equip? Need to know if I should add delete or reconsider anything before checkout? All of your time and help on this has been greatly appreciated. I am a close friend of JK if you know him, and after riding around in all of his monster project it gives you a serious bug. However, I don't have the endless money he does, so I have to think smart and sensible. Couldn't have done it without your help. So thank you. Any last direction would be much obliged. I will post pics as it goes together. I added you as a friend, so will try to figure the pic thing out. Lol

[zeropoint0.5]

I think this will about suffice my craving for Skool!! I am getting ready to checkout my online carts. I have so far with your guidance, 2 JL W612s 4ohm DVC, a JL Cleansweep Factory Integration with 130 band eq. JL Cleansweep signal summing device, 2 sets of MB Quart Q Line 6.5 components, a Stinger 50 farad cap, 1 optima yellow top gel, 1 Stinger 1/0 install kit. The box is being built out of cast acrylic to JL spec, ported. Does it sound like a wrap? Oh also, with the JL equip, should i add the Pheonix EQ-215x crossover, or would it be waisted money because of the JL equip? Need to know if I should add delete or reconsider anything before checkout? All of your time and help on this has been greatly appreciated. I am a close friend of JK if you know him, and after riding around in all of his monster project it gives you a serious bug. However, I don't have the endless money he does, so I have to think smart and sensible. Couldn't have done it without your help. So thank you. Any last direction would be much obliged. I will post pics as it goes together. I added you as a friend, so will try to figure the pic thing out. Lol

Start with the stuff you have....the stinger cap, optima yellow top and the stinger cable kit..... you can use the PG eq for low and highpass crossover settings.

with the two jl W6 subs, wire coils in series and then parallell the subs so you have a 4 ohm load....that will work great !!! it will give you about the output

of one 12W7..... the rest is all testing out in the car....maybe you're friend JK can help you out.....

note that the recommanded volumes on the jl audio site are netto volumes and you have to count driver displacement, vent displacement and the thickness

of the wood used for the internal side of the vent must be calculated in the volume........

good luck with the install