General questions during the purchasing of audio equiptment.

CWood · Post by **CWood** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:12 pm

Rather than putting up a request for different subjects during my equipment and equipment support purchasing, I thought I would ask the questions in this one thread if you guys don't mind. I will do searches on line but will come back to this thread to get your opinion to base my final decision on since I will be using PG equipment and most of you if not all of you are using PG products...... Thanks for ALL the help/advice in advance.

Here is question one: After searching the web, I found this site that helps you calculate speaker wire size. I found it very useful. Here is the link just incase some of you have not seen it.

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speake ... istant.swf

according to the calculator, I will be good using 14 gauge for my speakers and 8 gauge for my subs. Any thoughts?
I will be running the following.
-Amp: Elite5.
-Front speakers: Ti2 6.5 Components
-Rear speakers: Ti5cx Coaxials.
-Subs: 12" Ti212D4 (2)

Question 2: What brand speaker wire do you guys use/recommend? Don't want to end up ordering the CCA type of wire since not all co. put that in the description.
Thanks.......

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:16 pm

I like the knuconcepts wire myself. And prices are good.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CWood · Post by **CWood** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:19 pm

Thank you for the reply. I will check into knuconcepts.........

CWood · Post by **CWood** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:37 pm

looking around for 8 gauge speaker wire, your choices are far less. What do you guys think about running 10 gauge? 8 gauge was at 1100 watts, 5ft distance run, 1 ohm load (max for amp.) Don't think I'll be using the full 1100 watts.

ajaye · Post by **ajaye** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 6:41 pm

I have admittedly limited knowledge of high current ac, but I think you will be OK with 10. You certainly won't have any audible loss vs 8 awg, I guess the concern would be heat due to the more resistance.

Wire is wire, copper is copper, etc. It doesn't care if its carrying voltage that is a music signal or to turn on a lamp. Use 10 awg power wire of quality construction, or 8 awg for that matter. I promise it wont sound any worse than an equally well constructed wire sold as speaker wire.

dvnt88 · Post by **dvnt88** » Fri Jan 17, 2014 5:18 am

Run 8g off the sub channel if you can

...more current flow makes a happier ...cooler runnig amp as the Elite's are current whores, so feed them what ya can

. I have 8g KnuKonceptz speaker wire running to my Sub, but wouldn't recommend going any lower than 10g if ur gonna run your sub channel at a 1ohm load

. Just my .02c and sure another guru on the phorum will chime in.

CWood · Post by **CWood** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 8:02 am

Next question.... "Car Battery" I have a Red Top Optima battery in the car now. (07 Subaru STi) Use this battery or go with a battery such as Stinger?

zeropoint0.5 · Post by **zeropoint0.5** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 8:52 am

CWood wrote:Next question.... "Car Battery" I have a Red Top Optima battery in the car now. (07 Subaru STi) Use this battery or go with a battery such as Stinger?

better invest in a good deep cycle battery such a stinger/odyssey........ put in a big as you can....

you can for sure leave the red top in the front and buy a new one for in the trunk......

vwdude · Post by **vwdude** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 9:05 am

I might be old school but I stick with 16 gauge speaker and 12 gauge subwoofer cable. Of course I've never run a sub at 1 ohm.

ajaye wrote: Wire is wire, copper is copper, etc. It doesn't care if its carrying voltage that is a music signal or to turn on a lamp. Use 10 awg power wire of quality construction, or 8 awg for that matter. I promise it wont sound any worse than an equally well constructed wire sold as speaker wire.

Unfortunately companies are now going away from copper as the price of copper has been high as of late.

CWood · Post by **CWood** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 9:20 am

zeropoint0.5 wrote:better invest in a good deep cycle battery such a stinger/odyssey........ put in a big as you can....

you can for sure leave the red top in the front and buy a new one for in the trunk......

If I go with 2 different batteries (Optima up front and Stinger in back.) that would mean getting into battery isolators and such since the batteries are not the same, correct?

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:15 am

yes an isolator will keep them from fighting each other and the weaker one dying. I still do not recommend it and will always buy my batteries in pairs when one goes out.

Kirghiz · Post by **Kirghiz** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:23 pm

Yes, you'll need an isolator. Not a huge deal though.

captainobvious · Post by **captainobvious** » Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:31 am

Do yourself a favor and get this speaker wire. It's nice quality AND low price. I've run this in many of my systems, including my competition SQ system. It's great stuff and Monoprice is fantastic.

http://www.monoprice.com/Search/Index?k ... eaker+wire

Go with the white CL2 jacketed stuff.

CWood · Post by **CWood** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 7:02 am

Picked up a Alpine deck (used) for my 65 Ford Galaxie. Noticed that the deck only has sub pre outs. By using the high/low converters, do you lose SQ? If not, what brand converter do you guys recommend? If SQ will suffer, I will just pick up a new deck.
Thanks....

groundpounder · Post by **groundpounder** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 12:09 pm

Pick up a better head unit, I think it is the moast important part of your system? I love the Apline units. If you want a great one at a reasonable price, then go with the Alpine 9887 from ebay or craigslist. It is verry versatile and a great SQ unit. Or you could find one from another phorum member, I would bet?

General questions during the purchasing of audio equiptment.

General questions during the purchasing of audio equiptment.

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