Phoenix Gold Phorum

hoping someone can help me and trickyricky out. Well really its trickyricky but - He bought the rane AC23 here recently to use in his car and saw that I had the bmw show car Ti converted AC23/PG23 cross over and that mine had the 12v conversion done to it. He asked if I could help with that conversion for his and here we are now. I opened mine up to see what is all in there and there are two circuit boards that have been clearly added.


One is small and either hot glued or epoxied to the main board and has a 220microF (35v) cap on it, a transistor(heat sink up numbers down ) and another piece I am not sure about(the black piece under the transistor with the red/black/blue wires going to it. I thought it might be a high wattafe resistor but it has 3 wires? Been out of tech school too long....

and the other is wrapped with electrical tape and hanging from the 6 wires that go to it. The tape is obviously there to prevent it from shorting out to the case but to be honest it doesn't look like all that professional looking of a job on both boards and there is so much tape around the one you can't see anything on it. I am half afraid to cut the tape off an risk dicking something up under it on a 1-off piece honestly and I can't see what the numbers on the transistor. Not too worried about not being able to fix something if a wire came off but again on a piece like this I would really rather not molest it any more then I have too ya know?
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii40 ... C01193.jpg
Any chance eric or maybe morgan would know what the pieces are that we can not see, or plain just don't know(one component confuses me )?

Wouldn´t it be easier to just buy a converter from 12V DC to 110V AC and implement the parts into the supply circuit of the crossover?

joerg wrote:Wouldn´t it be easier to just buy a converter from 12V DC to 110V AC and implement the parts into the supply circuit of the crossover?

Along the same lines, but I would just get an AC to DC inverter, run it externally, and just incorporate it into the install like a distro block or whatever. Something like this.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/COBRA-CPI-480 ... r/11020914

I don't like the idea of turning it from 12vdc to 110vac then knocked down to 18vac and after that rectify it to 18vdc....thats a lot of converting and stepping voltage..when I can simply tap into the 12vdc supply and step it up to 18vdc.. DC to DC converter.

I think I found the solution...just hope the unit is available or the schematics so we don't to mess with ttocs unit.


http://www.rane.com/pdf/old/vc18dat.pdf


http://www.epanorama.net/sff/Audio/Pro_ ... 0Units.pdf

I have no idea, but I do know Rane's customer service has always been pretty stellar for me and about every other person I know that's dealt with them. May be worth a shot giving them a call, you will actually end up talking to someone that has a clue. I think they like when people use their stuff for weird shit honestly, hence all the info they make freely available.

trickyricky wrote:I don't like the idea of turning it from 12vdc to 110vac then knocked down to 18vac and after that rectify it to 18vdc....thats a lot of converting and stepping voltage..when I can simply tap into the 12vdc supply and step it up to 18vdc.. DC to DC converter.

I think I found the solution...just hope the unit is available or the schematics so we don't to mess with ttocs unit.


http://www.rane.com/pdf/old/vc18dat.pdf


http://www.epanorama.net/sff/Audio/Pro_ ... 0Units.pdf

I just read the 2nd doc. I do have a RAP external power supply I believe for my Rane mixer, don't know if seeing that would help. I'd have to dig it out but pretty sure I know here it is.

The main reason I would not want to use an inverter is they tend to be 60 hz noise makers for anything stereo related. The other reason is just for space as this would seem an easier way...

I have a pair of Image Dynamics IDQ-31 that look almoast the same and have the 12v. Conversion if it helps?

groundpounder, I dont know if they operate at the same voltage. I would have to look at the IDQ's specs/manual in order to know....unless you can find details on the rear of the units (they usually tell you whats the input voltage or/and operating voltage.

I will dig them out and check.

pretty sure the ID stuff is the same just a different face on them.