PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

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Wigzter
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 1:25 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by Wigzter »

Hi everybody!

My name is Ken and I'm very new to car audio. I recently went to my local car audio shop in Valrico, FL and had a Kenwood KAC-5001PS amp (1000w Peak/500w RMS) installed in my 08 Honda Accord sedan using my stock reciever. I started out with a single 12" PG R312D2 wired to 4-ohm load at 300w RMS. Then I decided it wasn't enough bump, so I bought a PG Ti212D4 wired to a 2-ohm load at 500w RMS and it sounds great!

But now I'm starting to get greedy and I want to add a 2nd Ti212D4 and go down to 1-ohm at 1200w RMS.

So my question is.....what amp should I get? The SD1300.1 for $300 or the Ti21300.1 for $400? I've done a lot of research on car audio basics, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what the difference is between the two amps are. When I asked the guy at the car audio shop, he just told me different circuitry on the inside. Is this true? I'm kind of skeptical to get the cheaper SD over the Ti2 in fear of I might be missing out on something if I don't get the Ti2. Also are his prices accurate or am I overpaying for either one of these amps? Also he tells me I don't need a battery capacitor, but even right now with 500w RMS going to my 1 12" sub, my headlights are going in and out when I have it turned up. Should I get one as well? I don't see any PG battery capacitors, so what brands do you use?

Thanks in advanced!!
06 Chevrolet Tahoe
Bose Factory System w/ PAC Line Out Converter
(2) Bose Tweeters
(2) 4" Bose Midranges
(4) 6.5" Bose 4peakers
(1) Ti21300.1 Amplifier on Stinger 4ga Power/Ground
(2) Ti212D4 Subwoofers wired to 1ohm load
zeropoint0.5
Posts: 593
Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 12:03 am

Re: PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by zeropoint0.5 »

it is difficult to judge/compare amps if you didn't had the change to make a test setup,

but based on the specs and everything, for that 100 extra bucks i would go for the Ti amp....

the crossover/subsonic filter is def. better 24/48db/oct.... and probably the Ti amp has way better

parts inside then the SD.....with a final result of not having more power then the other amp, but

it should have to sound way better....... power is one, but sound is something else.....

and another story is the amount of current they pull.....

altough i woudn't put a 1200W rms amp in a car without a second battery in the back next to it........

those are old tricks....first they sell you the amp, and second they expect that you will not have

enough to feed the amp and you will buy another battery because you have no way back cause you

already bought the amp.....sometimes they don't want you to start counting you're money cause there

scared at the end you will not buy anything at all.....

personally i think beeing honest stays the longest......
Wigzter
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 1:25 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Re: PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by Wigzter »

Thanks for the input zeropoint!

This is something I really want to get done and based off what you just told me, it's enough for me to go with the Ti21300.1

Since this is something I want to learn to do for myself, and have little car mechanic knowledge.

I'll probably go ahead and add another battery if that's a better solution rather than the capacitor.

Is it as simple as running the 4ga wire from the front battery to the back, then connecting it to the 2nd battery, then from the 2nd battery to the amp?

This is going to be pretty costly for my sort of income for sure, but I plan on buying one piece at a time, month to month and hopefully have it finished by the time my birthday comes around in June.
06 Chevrolet Tahoe
Bose Factory System w/ PAC Line Out Converter
(2) Bose Tweeters
(2) 4" Bose Midranges
(4) 6.5" Bose 4peakers
(1) Ti21300.1 Amplifier on Stinger 4ga Power/Ground
(2) Ti212D4 Subwoofers wired to 1ohm load
zeropoint0.5
Posts: 593
Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 12:03 am

Re: PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by zeropoint0.5 »

I would suggest 0 gauge and don't forget to do the big Three....

if you ever change to an elite.1 amp maybe :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray: :pray:
Wigzter
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 1:25 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Re: PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by Wigzter »

Hahaha being a single 28yr old dad with a 6mo old, I could only wish for an Elite.1

Would 0ga fit the Ti21300.1? When I was reading the specs, it said the power terminals are 4ga.

Now like I said before, I'm really new to car audio and Phoenix Gold. But I'm already a big PG fan.

So I base all my installs and stuff off of spec sheets and such. So if there are little tips and tricks anyone could teach me, I'm willing to learn for sure!

EDIT: What is the Big 3?
06 Chevrolet Tahoe
Bose Factory System w/ PAC Line Out Converter
(2) Bose Tweeters
(2) 4" Bose Midranges
(4) 6.5" Bose 4peakers
(1) Ti21300.1 Amplifier on Stinger 4ga Power/Ground
(2) Ti212D4 Subwoofers wired to 1ohm load
zeropoint0.5
Posts: 593
Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 12:03 am

Re: PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by zeropoint0.5 »

Wigzter wrote:Hahaha being a single 28yr old dad with a 6mo old, I could only wish for an Elite.1

Would 0ga fit the Ti21300.1? When I was reading the specs, it said the power terminals are 4ga.

Now like I said before, I'm really new to car audio and Phoenix Gold. But I'm already a big PG fan.

So I base all my installs and stuff off of spec sheets and such. So if there are little tips and tricks anyone could teach me, I'm willing to learn for sure!

EDIT: What is the Big 3?
I meant 0 gauge from the front to the back battery.... from the back battery u can use 4 gauge to the amp without a problem.....

with the big 3, that means when you put in 0 gauge from the front to the back battery, you also have to replace the original power

wire from alternator or starter to the battery with 0 gauge, as well as the grounded wire from battery to chassis and starter or alternator to chassis...

it just all has to be 0 gauge there... if you google the word ' car audio big 3 upgrade " you will find some pics and examples...........
Wigzter
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 1:25 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Re: PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by Wigzter »

Ahh ok, I'll probably have to get a friend to help me with that then. I'm not too mechanic savvy lol. I see what you're saying though about the 0ga. Thanks for your help man I do appreciate it!
06 Chevrolet Tahoe
Bose Factory System w/ PAC Line Out Converter
(2) Bose Tweeters
(2) 4" Bose Midranges
(4) 6.5" Bose 4peakers
(1) Ti21300.1 Amplifier on Stinger 4ga Power/Ground
(2) Ti212D4 Subwoofers wired to 1ohm load
zeropoint0.5
Posts: 593
Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 12:03 am

Re: PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by zeropoint0.5 »

Wigzter wrote:Ahh ok, I'll probably have to get a friend to help me with that then. I'm not too mechanic savvy lol. I see what you're saying though about the 0ga. Thanks for your help man I do appreciate it!
if you're a newbie, it is better to have somebody with experience to help you out indeed.
better doing things the first time good....

second, nobody says you have to buy everthing new...there's alot of stuff for sale secondhand.......
Kirghiz
Posts: 1013
Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2012 7:59 pm

Re: PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by Kirghiz »

All this discussion about the Elite.1.......Since you already have a Ti21300.1, I'd just get another one and run two of them rather than try and get an Elite.1. You won't be able to run a .1 at 1 ohm without upgrading alternators, and a pair of 1300.1's make more power than a .1 at 2 ohm anyway. By doing it that way you can upgrade incrementally to what you already have rather than try and sell a perfectly good amp.
Being loud without good sound quality is pointless, but having good sound quality without being loud is also pointless.
Wigzter
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 1:25 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Re: PG Ti21300.1 vs SD1300.1

Post by Wigzter »

@zeropoint - I've been searching eBay and Craigslist for one that is pre-owned but so far all I have found is an SD1300.1

And after our talk earlier, I really wanna go with the Ti21300.1 now instead of the SD1300.1

@Kirghiz - I don't have the Ti21300.1 yet, right now all I'm running is a small Kenwood 500w RMS amp. My original question was if I should go with the Ti2 or the SD amp. Then zeropoint and myself got sidetrack and started talking about the Elite.1 haha.

Unfort an amp like the Elite.1 is out of my price range. But I'm working on saving towards the Ti21300.1 now. When I'm done, I'll be just using that one amp to push 2 12" Ti212d4 subs.
06 Chevrolet Tahoe
Bose Factory System w/ PAC Line Out Converter
(2) Bose Tweeters
(2) 4" Bose Midranges
(4) 6.5" Bose 4peakers
(1) Ti21300.1 Amplifier on Stinger 4ga Power/Ground
(2) Ti212D4 Subwoofers wired to 1ohm load
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