Phoenix Gold Phorum

Since I'm still somewhat new to car audio, I've been wanted to brand test other types and kinds of subwoofers and my curiousity is kind of focused on JL Audios 13W7AE to put in the back of the Tahoe.

I don't want to replace my amp or anything, which is a PG Ti21300.1, but in the manual it only gives power ratings for 1300watts @1ohm and 900watts @2ohms. Since the 13W7AE is a dual 1.5ohm, my options would be to wire it as a .75 ohm or a 3ohm sub right? But would my amp be able to handle this? Or is this JL Audio's way of getting you to buy their amps too?

the jl 13W7 is a great great sub.....

maybe the load on you're amp will not be ideal.....

my best guess would be you better use a pair of 12W7 to end at at 1.5ohm load.......

maybe you're amp can handle the 0.75 ohm, with a stout electrical system to feed it.....

if the amp doesn't go into protection, you're fine...... although i think it is not the best

choice of setup........ an elite.1 would be a better choice.....


personally i would not give you're amp a load of 0.75ohm.......... it's you're choice.......

The PG amp will handle .75 ohms with no problem. Make sure the amp has proper power going to it! Keep the JL's !!!

.75 I'm sure it will handle it but wouldn't recommend it 3ohms will be OK but the w7 wants serious power to be happy so it will be a waste. Why not use a ti elite d2. The bass it makes is thick and heavy like the w7 with comparable output at a better pricepoint.

The 13w7 is not actually a dual 1.5ohm sub though it says it is" kind of " .

When you look on JL audio web sight under " Parameters " . You will see that it is actually a dual 1.2 . wired in series it's "DC Resistance (Re)* = 2.41 Ω" / so in parallel it's 2.41 devided by 4 = .6ohms .

With all that said i wired my girl's 13w7 at .6ohms to a mb quart 1500. With the upgraded electrics (Big 3 and new bat only) .

If you also have a 1ohm stable amp with upgraded electrics you should be able to wire it at .6ohms . If the amp doesn't shut off immediately then "box rise" will come into effect and you will be fine . imo

OK, you guys mare killing me. It will only hit .6 ohms at one, and only one frequency. As the frequencies are played, how many times and how long do you think that one frequency will be hit... not many times and not for long. So, .6 ohms will be just fine. Just think, at the resonance frequency of the driver, it might be at 30 ohms... And there will be resistance with the speaker wire too.

If I were to buy a PG amp that says 4 ohms mono. Most of PG amps can handle half that. 2 ohms. Well, the amp in question is rated at 1 ohm mono... just like 4 ohms. So, it will handle .5 ohms all day long. Just keep the power flowing to it!

Virtue wrote:OK, you guys mare killing me. It will only hit .6 ohms at one, and only one frequency. As the frequencies are played, how many times and how long do you think that one frequency will be hit... not many times and not for long. So, .6 ohms will be just fine. Just think, at the resonance frequency of the driver, it might be at 30 ohms... And there will be resistance with the speaker wire too.

If I were to buy a PG amp that says 4 ohms mono. Most of PG amps can handle half that. 2 ohms. Well, the amp in question is rated at 1 ohm mono... just like 4 ohms. So, it will handle .5 ohms all day long. Just keep the power flowing to it!

Agreed , with all factors included , .5 ohms is A OK

If amp don't turn off immediately due to circuit protection, and doesn't drop below 12.4 volts it's all G .