Phoenix Gold Phorum

I'm about to make a custom box and i want to make an spl box to compensate for the power im giving it, but the manual says the spl box is 1.75 cu ft while the normal box is 2.25 cu ft. I thought itd be the other way around since a bigger box would mean more air for the sub to push. any recommendedations?

Go with the normal specs. Ive built a few enclosures now for the Elites and imo they like the 2.25 the best.

But ill say this. Lots of bracing is a must. Even dual layer the box if you can.

The elite subs will flex 3/4 mdf easily.

My box weighs in at just under 200lbs and it will slid across the floor at high volume.

Make sure the enclosure is fastened down well.

Just my 2cents.


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Drock wrote:Go with the normal specs. Ive built a few enclosures now for the Elites and imo they like the 2.25 the best.

But ill say this. Lots of bracing is a must. Even dual layer the box if you can.

The elite subs will flex 3/4 mdf easily.

My box weighs in at just under 200lbs and it will slid across the floor at high volume.

Make sure the enclosure is fastened down well.

Just my 2cents.


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Good lord i didnt know that, I have very little experience using power tools or building anything so i decided on a sealed box, my woodshop has everything but a terminal cup so i had to go out and buy one, and besides wood glue what do i seal the box with? btw it's 2.3 cu ft
Sorry for the laste reply I forgot my password. And the goal of my box was to get some experience i will run the sub on this just to try it but i really don't know what to expect out of the box to be honest

glue or some adhesive is normally used on the joints and then inside of that often a silicon adhesive/glue/sealer inside to ensure all the seams are sealed.

ttocs wrote:glue or some adhesive is normally used on the joints and then inside of that often a silicon adhesive/glue/sealer inside to ensure all the seams are sealed.

Cool i figured that would end up being it, And this is my first box ever so my edges don't line up right, I could use a hand planer and a sanding block to even it as much as possible right? And as far as laying down carpet I just lay it so that the seams of the carpet are on the bottom or back panel so it doesn't show.

ttocs wrote:glue or some adhesive is normally used on the joints and then inside of that often a silicon adhesive/glue/sealer inside to ensure all the seams are sealed.

Cool i figured that would end up being it, And this is my first box ever so my edges don't line up right, I could use a hand planer and a sanding block to even it as much as possible right? And as far as laying down carpet I just lay it so that the seams of the carpet are on the bottom or back panel so it doesn't show.

Are you guys talking old school elite or new?

New


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I make up a "milkshake" concoction with fiberglass resin and bondo and then pour it in on each flat surface. It spreads itself out and fills in all gaps. It's a trick I use on my fiberglass boxes but it works great on wooden boxes too. It'll give you some density to the walls, and then make sure to add poly fill.

vwdude wrote:I make up a "milkshake" concoction with fiberglass resin and bondo and then pour it in on each flat surface. It spreads itself out and fills in all gaps. It's a trick I use on my fiberglass boxes but it works great on wooden boxes too. It'll give you some density to the walls, and then make sure to add poly fill.

Thankyou, I've heard some iffy things about polyfil, and do you do a 50\50 mixture of the fiberglass and bondo or what do you find to work best?

Yes I do about 50/50 of fg resin and bondo, and I use the resin hardener.

Don't over stuff with the poly fill. If it's jammed in there then it could do some cosmetic damage to the back of the sub.

I am planning to build a box very soon using this http://www.parts-express.com/acoustic-e ... n--260-528

I would recommend trying it with out the poly fill myself. Sometimes it helps and is needed, sometimes its not.

ttocs wrote:I would recommend trying it with out the poly fill myself. Sometimes it helps and is needed, sometimes its not.

I'll take that into account, what setups have you used\notused polyfill on

I would hazard to say 90% of the boxes I built as an installer were with out it. A properly built box with a good woofer and power should not "need" filling and the only time I really remember using it was on boxes that were built to maximize the space available but did not meet the minimum recommended. It really was only on the boxes that after we powered them up and tuned the system and it just wasn't meeting what was needed and I can say it helped those smaller boxes.

We did to an a-b test at the store one day on a box/woofer combination that was correct and already sounded good and we just didn't notice much of a difference, if anything at all.

ttocs wrote:I would hazard to say 90% of the boxes I built as an installer were with out it. A properly built box with a good woofer and power should not "need" filling and the only time I really remember using it was on boxes that were built to maximize the space available but did not meet the minimum recommended. It really was only on the boxes that after we powered them up and tuned the system and it just wasn't meeting what was needed and I can say it helped those smaller boxes.

We did to an a-b test at the store one day on a box/woofer combination that was correct and already sounded good and we just didn't notice much of a difference, if anything at all.

alright that's good to know, i'm waiting to get back to the united states to finish my box. im getting really impatient waiting now