Phoenix Gold Phorum

I found this add on the Norweigan ebay toda(finn.no):http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/annonse? ... pe=finnbox
I talked to the guy he did not realy know what he had so i gave him an offer on 200$ he agreed and i cant wait to get this.

Oh no....looks like you got the PG fever.

trickyricky wrote:Oh no....looks like you got the PG fever.

Yup i got it alright just cant stop buying PG i think i need support group

U have all support u need here!!!!

knightrider358 wrote:U have all support u need here!!!!

Well this forum is making me buy amps, not keeping me from buying lol
Its all good i can sell them if i dont use them, the zpa is too strong for my use in my current car but its going in my next car for sure.

Nice score. Those for sure need the caps changed before powering up. It's also a V1 which isn't necessarily bad but just be aware that there is an update that can be done to it to help with the cooling.

When it arrives post up some close up board pics if you want info on work that's been done to it and work that it needs done.

I'm jealous...but then again I have 3 of those. I always want more. $200 is a decent price in the US for those, depending on condition.

What's that in the bag, a PLd1? You pretty much need one of owe for the APa amps as they require an 8 volt signal.

Looks like with the phone cord maybe a bass cube?

Weaklink wrote:Looks like with the phone cord maybe a bass cube?

Nope...its a PLD I have good eyes

But he did mention he scored a Bass Cube locally.

Nice, even the plexi looks good! Usually the corners are broken like on the one I scored for 100euro.

I don't know what to make of this business about the need of a line driver. The manual states it needs one, Larry Frederic says u need one and zeropoint 0.5 swears by PLDs. But then again the gain range printed on the amp is 1-8V and Eric measured that the amp puts out full power with a 1V input signal. Duh. I dunno. Maybe its the balanced input that needs plenty of signal voltage and the RCA input needs less.

I know my pondering is pointless but I cant help it. I'm sure it will sound better with a strong input signal, but if someone uses a ZPA as a sub amp then the S/N ratio isn't that important.

Then there's the high voltage / high current operation to take into account. In high voltage the amp will need twice as much signal voltage to make full power compared to high current. This amp is complex I will say that, considering its a simple to the point sound quality power monger.

vwdude wrote:Nice score. Those for sure need the caps changed before powering up. It's also a V1 which isn't necessarily bad but just be aware that there is an update that can be done to it to help with the cooling.

When it arrives post up some close up board pics if you want info on work that's been done to it and work that it needs done.

I'm jealous...but then again I have 3 of those. I always want more. $200 is a decent price in the US for those, depending on condition.

What's that in the bag, a PLd1? You pretty much need one of owe for the APa amps as they require an 8 volt signal.

Hi i wonder about that update for the cooling what do i need to do it, i will post picture when it gets here.
I think the plexi looks like it is cracked but it should be alright after what the seller told me, i will remove the caps as soon as it gets here i do not think i will test it before i do it.

I also want more info about the ZPA i dont know much about it other then the specs

congrats.

i would make sure i got the xmax 15inch sub also cause they are very very good......

two things will be important before you even power up the zpa.

first thing is of course have the 6 input caps replaced.

second thing is, when you clean up every ps and output transistor, to give it new cooling paste,

is check very good EVERYWHERE between the transistors and other components for little copper wire living

there sucked up by the fans in the past..... one short can make the amp burn !!!!!!


there is a pld1 in that bag, so you're good to go with that..........


good luck with it..........

zeropoint0.5 wrote:congrats.

i would make sure i got the xmax 15inch sub also cause they are very very good......

two things will be important before you even power up the zpa.

first thing is of course have the 6 input caps replaced.

second thing is, when you clean up every ps and output transistor, to give it new cooling paste,

is check very good EVERYWHERE between the transistors and other components for little copper wire living

there sucked up by the fans in the past..... one short can make the amp burn !!!!!!


there is a pld1 in that bag, so you're good to go with that..........


good luck with it..........

Thank you for you advice, it will get full service

Got another item today its a freebie i got from my brother in law its not PG but an Alpine CDA-117Ri headunit, in my car now i got a Pioneer x6700dab but this alpine is a better headunit when it comes to sound quality.
I will try and get a hold of the optional bluetooth unit for it as i miss my handsfree, if anyone got one please let me know.

Double check the specs. A lot of the alpine decks say 4v preout not plural. Only the sub out is 4v. Still a nice deck though.

Weaklink wrote:Double check the specs. A lot of the alpine decks say 4v preout not plural. Only the sub out is 4v. Still a nice deck though.

Im only using one rca to the TBA1 and then to an audiocontrol DQ, but thanks for the tips i will check if it only got one or if all are 4v, i wonder about the imprint PXA-H100 dsp has anyone here used one and are they good i understand it adjust itself with the microphone.

not sure I would recommend an x-max 15 myself and I have been pricing 15's lately. They are a good sub no doubt but finding one that doesn't have the outside rotted off is hard enough and there are a number of great 15" subs being made today unless you are stuck on pg/old school. If that's the case I can dig it.

ttocs wrote:not sure I would recommend an x-max 15 myself and I have been pricing 15's lately. They are a good sub no doubt but finding one that doesn't have the outside rotted off is hard enough and there are a number of great 15" subs being made today unless you are stuck on pg/old school. If that's the case I can dig it.

check the link of the author here....there was an xmax15 included in that auction....based on the price he payed for the zpa, he

probably can get that sub also for a low price...........check the pics, it doesn't look that bad...........

there probably are better subs today....but not for that price and in a much higher power range........

the zpa0.3 just gives him 600w rms at 4 ohm......

i still have multiple xmax 12 and 15 at home and they all are in an almost mint condition.........

but i also have 2 jl 13W7 and 2 jl 12W7ae..........you can't compare the xmax subs to that......

the jl's are from a total other level..... the price for them also......................

and for example a zpa0.3 is not heavy enough for a jl 12W7..... that one needs 1000W rms.....

zeropoint0.5 wrote:

ttocs wrote:not sure I would recommend an x-max 15 myself and I have been pricing 15's lately. They are a good sub no doubt but finding one that doesn't have the outside rotted off is hard enough and there are a number of great 15" subs being made today unless you are stuck on pg/old school. If that's the case I can dig it.

check the link of the author here....there was an xmax15 included in that auction....based on the price he payed for the zpa, he

probably can get that sub also for a low price...........check the pics, it doesn't look that bad...........

there probably are better subs today....but not for that price and in a much higher power range........

the zpa0.3 just gives him 600w rms at 4 ohm......

i still have multiple xmax 12 and 15 at home and they all are in an almost mint condition.........

but i also have 2 jl 13W7 and 2 jl 12W7ae..........you can't compare the xmax subs to that......

the jl's are from a total other level..... the price for them also......................

and for example a zpa0.3 is not heavy enough for a jl 12W7..... that one needs 1000W rms.....

I asked him about the xmax but he wanted 300$ for it with the Box, im sure i could get him down to 200$ but i do not like to buy used speakers because you never know how they are used and in this case he did not know anything about it as he never used it himself.
The amplifier i can repair if it is broken but a broken speaker is worse as i dont have a Clue about how to repair or if they sell recone kit for them.

Alfaholic wrote:

zeropoint0.5 wrote:

ttocs wrote:not sure I would recommend an x-max 15 myself and I have been pricing 15's lately. They are a good sub no doubt but finding one that doesn't have the outside rotted off is hard enough and there are a number of great 15" subs being made today unless you are stuck on pg/old school. If that's the case I can dig it.

check the link of the author here....there was an xmax15 included in that auction....based on the price he payed for the zpa, he

probably can get that sub also for a low price...........check the pics, it doesn't look that bad...........

there probably are better subs today....but not for that price and in a much higher power range........

the zpa0.3 just gives him 600w rms at 4 ohm......

i still have multiple xmax 12 and 15 at home and they all are in an almost mint condition.........

but i also have 2 jl 13W7 and 2 jl 12W7ae..........you can't compare the xmax subs to that......

the jl's are from a total other level..... the price for them also......................

and for example a zpa0.3 is not heavy enough for a jl 12W7..... that one needs 1000W rms.....

I asked him about the xmax but he wanted 300$ for it with the Box, im sure i could get him down to 200$ but i do not like to buy used speakers because you never know how they are used and in this case he did not know anything about it as he never used it himself.
The amplifier i can repair if it is broken but a broken speaker is worse as i dont have a Clue about how to repair or if they sell recone kit for them.

if that xmax 15 played in a sealed box, and powered by the zpa0.3, it probably will be fine.....

a 15 can even handle 800w rms fine...........

looking at the rubber surround it is a V2 model...... but even 200us is too much......

can you listening to it ??

try to get it for 100us, or just let it go.........give him the offer.......

if he doesn't get it sold soon, maybe he let it go at that price to get rid of it.......that's sometimes the way things go..........;

I would more compare the xmax to the JL w6 version 1. its a good sub, but not an insane sub like whats out these days. Back in the 90s it was an upper middle line sub.

theres a full process involved to convert to v2 ZPA amp. rather than doing that conversion id replace your fans with brand new ones (same exact model) and then replace the 2 resistors on the verticle power board (the one the fans plug into) with new resistors of the same value, but spaced about 1/2" from the board, to prevent it from burning the board (and to give it air flow to keep cooler). the v1 fans are quieter than the v2 fans and do work pretty well. if you are pushing the limits of the amp then id go with the v2 conversion.

vwdude wrote:I would more compare the xmax to the JL w6 version 1. its a good sub, but not an insane sub like whats out these days. Back in the 90s it was an upper middle line sub.

theres a full process involved to convert to v2 ZPA amp. rather than doing that conversion id replace your fans with brand new ones (same exact model) and then replace the 2 resistors on the verticle power board (the one the fans plug into) with new resistors of the same value, but spaced about 1/2" from the board, to prevent it from burning the board (and to give it air flow to keep cooler). the v1 fans are quieter than the v2 fans and do work pretty well. if you are pushing the limits of the amp then id go with the v2 conversion.

Does it use the same 80mmx80mmx15mm 0.19amp fans that the zx600/400 uses?, i will change the resistors when i get it are there any Pictures or guide somewhere that shows how you do the Conversion?.
I never think i will run this amp to the limit, i really bought it so i could change the caps and i think if someone bought it and just powered it up it could be destroyed in a short period off time

There is nothing public about it.

The fans from the ZXti series are the same as the v2 fans. The v1 are panaflo...let me see if I have a picture of it...



V1 on left, v2 on right. See if you make out the model, I think it's FBA08T12H, DC12v, 0.26A

I've never bought from here before these appear to be the right ones at a good price...
http://www.cwc-group.com/fba08t12h.html

Well i just picked it up and there also were a XSC5 capacitor, pld1 and bass Remote that has the cord cut off and non off the wires was on the pin on the pot.
Sorry for the bad pictures i need a new digital camera, i will post more Picture when im opening it but it looks clean there is a ltle crack in the plexi in the corner with one off the screws i will glue it and be really carefull when im putting it back on.

there was someone on here that I thought used some rubber band gaskets that they put around the screws to hold it in place and not risk breaking it.

The Serial is:ZPA03 00618
Think i will try and get the gule they use when gluing two plexi plates together that way it woul be hard to see the crack.
It looks great inside so far and i do not see any resistor that has been exposed to heat but i will change them anyway.