Phoenix Gold Phorum

Hello trying to set gains on my amp using -5db tones and dmm, managed sub fine set it at around 500rms so no oroblems there i dont get clipping lights until gains nearly maxed, now with the front channels im trying to get around 20volts on the dmm which is 100rms but using 1khz tone i get to around 14volrs on dmm and clipping light flashing so i tried 40hz tone and thats fine i can get to 20volts but when i go back to 1khz tone clipping lights flashing and also when im playing music its flashing so i reduced gain to be safe. Im confused why i cant reach 20volts with 1khz tone without flashing? Thanks guys long post sorry but wanted to get all facts on here

Could be the class d. What are the settings at on the radio? What kind of radio is it?

trust the clipping light and your ears and you will be happier in the end

Hu is 80prs im using volume 45 as my setting volume, all filters set to pass open when tuning and eq on flat

Doing more research i worked it out, for some reason the amp shows clipping early only if you have the right rca plugged in but left is either pulled out or muted at headunit, but if you have both connected its fine and even if you have only left in its fine you cant have just right in

Are you sure it is not related to your DMM?

Lower quality DMMs only read accurately at 60Hz. Away from this frequency they become increasingly inaccurate.

I dont expect the dmm to be completely accurate but just give a ball park figure

its barely even made to give you a ball park figure because of what he mentioned. You can use a flat head screwdriver as a chisel but you will never see a respectable craftsman do it unless he is trying to make it look like an amateur was there. Again trust your ears and that clip light and you will be better off then ballparking it with what is probably a $20 meter and not even all that sure how to use it.

It is a basic dmm, clipping lights are fine now it was with just the right rca connected it would show clipping earlier, that was the main point of the post dmm was just to give me a slight idea of where im at hence using the 40hz tone aswel as that i would expect to be ok on a meter designed for uk 50hz

Ttocs, when using clip lights would you recommend doung that on music or tones?

What kind of white noise/test tone do you listen prefer when you are really wanting to jam? I have always used music myself and lots of it. Don't be afraid to switch songs/artists and make a slight adjustment and see/hear what happens and if it makes it worse well then at least you know and can switch it back.

I am not saying I am against using tools/tones to get a ball park but with out a good meter at the very least all your really doing is getting into the ball park but its hard to even get a base hit if your ticket doesn't get you past the bleachers. You can get cheap o-scopes now and I would do a cheap scope before a cheap meter for this job any day.

If you play a tone and look for the clip lights, you may end up with a blown speaker. Few non-subwoofer speakers can handle the stress of a full power sine wave into them.

Music gives you bursts to look for on the clip lights, and has far less risk of damaging your speakers.

Thanks for your info, yeh music makes sense dont listen to tones lol. I guess im paranoid, but because the clip light went of earlier when just the right channel was connected with the 1khz tone does that mean the right channel is actually clipping way before the left channel? The clip lightdoesnt flash when both channels are connected until i turn gain way higher, also when pkaying 40hz tone the clip light wont flash until turning gain way high.

Right ive summed it up been doing more testing, both front and rear channels if you just connect the right channels even with gain maxed you wont get more than 18-19volts and the clipping light is on. With just left channel connected the left channel gets upto 28volts plus and it clips at around 27 volts which is what you would expect. Now with both channels connected then the right channels is fine and it wont clip until 27volts. So you need both rca inputs left and right connected for right channel to give full power and this is same for front and rear channels. There doesnt seem to be any leakage into the right channel from the left side, ie if you have just left rca connected and dmm on right channel it shows nothing, so not sure why right channel wont give full power with just right rca in, and ive swapped rcas to make sure rcas around to make sure the right side wasnt faulty.

I am pretty sure something is wrong with your setup, or equipment.

My Ti21600.5 does not work like yours.

Also, the amp should do around 23V when it clips, not 28V.

Maybe the head unit is doing it as some feature like cell phone muting something. I wonder if it's playing a mono signal through that channel with the other disconnected.

I did more testing and have come to the conclusion that if either the front or rear left inputs are muted or see a low signal the amp stays on the low vvoltage rail but when either the front or rear left rca sees enough signal amp jumps into high voltage rail. I realised this when i remembered the adapt technology description, which explains with low signal the amp stays in low power mode but at high power shifts high power mode. The way its designed the amp looks at the left channels for this hence just right channels will not make full power.

Are you talking about the same amp? I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure the ADAPT system is just to keep the power even with changing input voltage (from your battery and electrical system), and has nothing to do with the output rail voltages. There should be no high power mode, and the signal at the RCA should not affect this.

The ratings on the amp change with impedance, which is a classic case of an amp which has a fixed output gain. Only when you see stuff like, 100W at 4 ohm, 2 ohm, or 1 ohm is there some "magic" going on to adjust output. For example, the Xenon amps have the same output into different loads.

Yes same amp, your right about the adapt with voltage inputs but it also has another function which is to do with effiency i read up on the adapt again and i think it confirms what ive been seeing, if morgan could confirm