Sound deadening advice, options, deals, pricing.

[freudie1]

Just saw this.

I've messed with the butyl (and asphalt crap when I was kid)/Dynamat stuff.

Here is my take after finishing this part of the system in my current truck:

They don't work........IF you are trying to stop ROAD NOISE.

Huh? Yes, that's right, Dynamat type products do crap for this. I proved it. Buy a nice roll of MLV (tons of places to buy it, NOT car audio labelled AND it has no smell). Buy a nice roll of closed cell foam as well (once again, lots of places to buy). Remove all seats, center console, and carpet. Put the CCF down (no need to glue it, it's not going anywhere after you put all the interior back in).

Roll out the MLV.....get ready for a day of fun cutting holes out for bolts/etc.

Reinstall interior. Enjoy your very quiet vehicle.

Dynamat you ask? I used some of Sound deadner showdown's CLD tiles on the rear wall of my truck....(and only a few tiles per his recommendation). I noticed little to no difference....the CCF/MLV combo I hung on the rear wall made the most difference.

Doors? Don't put speakers in doors. I hate hate hate the concept. You WILL get wet speakers and you WILL get rattles. I was tired of wasting tons of time and energy trying to dampen doors (and worse get the damn door panels back on, hence I built fiberglass midbass pods and moved on with my life.

I spent a total of $180 in dampening material. Best results I ever had with the least amount of "Dynamat" material.

TRY IT! It's cheap and only takes a few days in the garage (helps if you have another vehicle...I left the truck stripped for a week as I putzed around with this stuff).

Once again: I used little to no Dynamat/CLD type product and I certainly did not "paint the floor" with Dynamat. I chuckle when I see that on the floor of cars. It's pointless.

[ttocs]

[quote="freudie1"

I spent a total of $180 in dampening material. [/quote]

Ya mean like $180 in Fiji water or you just got a really nice hose/nozzle? Sorry I could not resist

[NotDeafYet]

MLV? Googled.. didn't answer my "what does it mean" question..

The road noise part would be nice, and appreciated.. but for the doors, I'm looking to avoid the rattling effect of things.

I'm gonna use dash pods that I got off of Mike here. Tweets and 4inchers. And still gonna use the 6.5s in the doors too.

What I would like to kill is the little exhaust drone I get from the car. It's nothing crazy.. but I do notice it when I jump in my other "identical" car.. not as many power upgrades, but quite noticeably quiter. The drone effect seems more prominent in golfs vs jettas.. hatch vs sedan. If it doesn't go away, I just turn up the volume more ahaha.

Thanks for your experience, and input on my topic, mucho appreciated. First account story, love those.

[ttocs]

MLV = mass loaded vinyl. ITs a heavy closed cell foam that does do a wonderful job as he said of blocking out road noise. IT is also more expensive and heavier if your trying to save weight. I replaced my carpeting and used it instead of the stock jute crap and love it, but it is also on top of a layer of second skin damplifier pro and there is also lizard skin sprayable on the bottom of the car. The sheet stuff is better at stopping rattles and is still good and keeping out some road noise and is still the first step I would take in sound damping

[dwnrodeo]

MLV is a mass loaded vinyl, but NOT a closed cell foam. It is a vinyl sheet designed to create a barrier to reduce noise from crossing. It is commonly coupled with CCF or closed cell foam so that the heavy vinyl sheet is decoupled from an adjacent surface where it would vibrate and make noise. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/pr ... -vinyl-mlv

[NotDeafYet]

MLV = mass loaded vinyl. ITs a heavy closed cell foam that does do a wonderful job as he said of blocking out road noise. IT is also more expensive and heavier if your trying to save weight. I replaced my carpeting and used it instead of the stock jute crap and love it, but it is also on top of a layer of second skin damplifier pro and there is also lizard skin sprayable on the bottom of the car. The sheet stuff is better at stopping rattles and is still good and keeping out some road noise and is still the first step I would take in sound damping

Man.. how thick of stuff do you have on that floor? HEHEHE. I don't mind too much extra weight.. and it's low, between the tires, so that's ok too. I'll look into it. Thanks.

[dwnrodeo]

MLV? Googled.. didn't answer my "what does it mean" question..

The road noise part would be nice, and appreciated.. but for the doors, I'm looking to avoid the rattling effect of things.

I'm gonna use dash pods that I got off of Mike here. Tweets and 4inchers. And still gonna use the 6.5s in the doors too.

What I would like to kill is the little exhaust drone I get from the car. It's nothing crazy.. but I do notice it when I jump in my other "identical" car.. not as many power upgrades, but quite noticeably quiter. The drone effect seems more prominent in golfs vs jettas.. hatch vs sedan. If it doesn't go away, I just turn up the volume more ahaha.

Thanks for your experience, and input on my topic, mucho appreciated. First account story, love those.

freudie1 is correct. What most people think of when it comes to blocking noise is just the foil backed dampener material or what is commonly referred to as Dynamat (like Kleenex branding of tissues). A dampening material will lower the resonant frequency of the surface you're adhering it to, but it will NOT substantially block out road noise. If you're looking to get rid of the rattling effects of panels, use a dampening material to prevent rattles. 25% coverage on a panel is apparently all it takes to accomplish this effectively. Any more and there are diminishing returns on your investment (lots of $$ with little benefit). If you're looking to block road noise, MLV is what you want to use. Decouple it from the panels with a closed cell foam material and create a barrier that blocks out road noise. I would personally use a combination of the two, dampening sheets and MLV/CCF on top. This will help prevent rattles AND reduce noise from entering your vehicle.

[ttocs]

ok so again we are talking damping material, "damp-en-ing" materials will require water and/or a hose. Yes this is all just technical talk but if you are going to talk the talk we need to do it correctly.

Yes my car is nice and quiet now.... I also have a thermal barrier on my trans tunnel to prevent heat

[dwnrodeo]

ok so again we are talking damping material, "damp-en-ing" materials will require water and/or a hose. Yes this is all just technical talk but if you are going to talk the talk we need to do it correctly.

Yes my car is nice and quiet now.... I also have a thermal barrier on my trans tunnel to prevent heat

O.K., O.K. so I was incorrectly using the word "dampening" meaning to reduce the vibrations. Nomenclature aside, what I stated above is generally accepted as true.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYOzUHnPJvU

[freudie1]

Dwnrodeo: You hit the nail on the head.

In fact, MOST new vehicles need little to no CLD tiles on the floor. I wish I took a picture of my truck's floor. There is no flex or vibration (that would be audible in my opinion) possible. Doors? Sure. Without speakers? Doubtful. In fact, I haven't put squat in my doors and the truck is already quieter than our Sequoia (and I have the TRD exhaust which is fairly droning). If anything, I'd recommend MLV and CCF behind door panels (IF you can fit it) as that will have much more benefit than "Dynamat".

Once again, mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam are CHEAP. Are they as easy to install as "Dynamat"? No. Are they much more beneficial? Absolutely.

Food for thought: I used to think Dynamat products were the way to stop the infamous trunk rattle in sedans/etc. I never achieved such sonic nirvana (or lack of vibration that is). Years later I saw a show car that went as far as installing an electromagnetic system in their trunk to hold the lid tighter. THAT speaks volumes.

[NotDeafYet]

There goes a few amps of current starved from the amps hehehe. But a good idea none the less!

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

[ttocs]

I personally have noticed huge gains both in noise rejection as well as helping to make an enclosure out of the door for the speakers to sound better in. To say its is just to stop rattles isn't completely correct.