TI1200.1

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MisterChan
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 5:06 am

TI1200.1

Post by MisterChan »

So... I bought this from some dude on craigslist for $150 thinking i was the luckiest man alive knowing what it is.. but it wont even work.. Lol, the lights do, but nothing else. No sound when i connect speakers, not even the fan wanted to move an inch. So insteead of throwing $150 away, i decided to take it apart and order some new parts but i'm new to this so i wouldn't even know what i need. Is there anyone on here that can help me resurrect this monster?
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MisterChan
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 5:06 am

Re: TI1200.1

Post by MisterChan »

Would it even be worth trying? :(
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dwnrodeo
Posts: 1932
Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:35 am
Location: MI

Re: TI1200.1

Post by dwnrodeo »

Things are kinda slow around here, especially on weekends. Give the regulars some time and they'll respond. All PG is worth saving. :)
XS2300, XS2500, XS2300, X200.4, X100.2, Ti21000.4, Roadster 66

I'm gonna become a civil engineer. I'm gonna design septic tanks for playgrounds. Little kids can take shits! You idiot, what the hell do you do?
trickyricky
Posts: 1653
Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 8:01 am

Re: TI1200.1

Post by trickyricky »

Remove all the power supply fets, fet gate resistors, fets pre drivers, pwm IC (this amplifier has two power supplies that work together as one, both will need the same procedures).Once you remove all of those components check the output devices for any shorts, if you have shorts here then you might want to consider if repairing will be worth it. Can't remember how many TO3P is utilizes but they are approx 4-6 bucks each so if you have 24 of them you have nearly 100.00 just on the output devices, you'd still need to check the predrivers for the outputs if the output transistors are shorted to begin with if not then leave that alone.

I've repaired a TI1200.1 before and that one had a shorted/bad power supply and it wasn't that bad or complicated. Some SMD components but no biggie.
vwdude
Posts: 1846
Joined: Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:55 am
Location: So cal

Re: TI1200.1

Post by vwdude »

ricky is right on. ive repaired one before also but it was part of the protection circuit in my case. that looks like some parts are missing on yours, and someone already gummed up the mosfets. sometimes on projects like this its worth sending out. an easier amp to learn on would be a smaller ZX series amp (250, 350, 400...). this is more complicated with dual power supplies and essentially two amplifiers in one.
A few of these and a few of those.
Creator of www.phoenixgoldregistry.com
hit me up to add your limited edition amps.
MisterChan
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 5:06 am

Re: TI1200.1

Post by MisterChan »

Holy crap your response has made me the happiest man alive, ricky. I was starting to lose hope in this, lol. but before i start removing the fets, I would like to know few more things like, would the spray paint you see in the pics be effecting it in any way?
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Second, it bad that this is starting to turn black?
Second, it bad that this is starting to turn black?
WIN_20170403_06_57_51_Pro.jpg
And what is this white stuff? It was so sticky that i felt like i broke something when i pulled off the square panel..
And what is this white stuff? It was so sticky that i felt like i broke something when i pulled off the square panel..
MisterChan
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 5:06 am

Re: TI1200.1

Post by MisterChan »

Oh i jst read your post vw, but i was thinking the same thing.. I shouldn't be working on something like this for my first time. Lol But there are no local shops that will repair this.. I've already tried calling and emailing a lot of places..
trickyricky
Posts: 1653
Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 8:01 am

Re: TI1200.1

Post by trickyricky »

remove all the fets, clean up with 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol...check each gate resistor (if one is out of tolerance, replace all). Don't know what kind of paint that is but doubt it's conductive, however it may be corrosive and could cause damage to the smd component solder joints.

Also removing the rest of the heat sink (taking note of where everything goes...you already took pics so that's good lol)is not a bad idea and make sure there isn't any loose wire strands stuck between the pins of devices. Remove all loose dust, clean as much as you can that makes working on it much easier.
MisterChan
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 5:06 am

Re: TI1200.1

Post by MisterChan »

thanks will do ricky, but im working on 2 more amps before i get back to the pg and i have 1 issue on both of them..

1-Hitronic hka1200.2 - Everytime i connect it, the fuse blows right away and i dont understand why.. my wire are all connected right and theres nothng that looks wrong when i open it up.. What would the issue be?

2- Rockford fosgate power 1501bd -Fried mosfet is stuck and idk if i should jst pry it off or if there's something i can use ..

Ill post some pics if needed..
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Jacampb2
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Re: TI1200.1

Post by Jacampb2 »

MisterChan wrote:thanks will do ricky, but im working on 2 more amps before i get back to the pg and i have 1 issue on both of them..

1-Hitronic hka1200.2 - Everytime i connect it, the fuse blows right away and i dont understand why.. my wire are all connected right and theres nothng that looks wrong when i open it up.. What would the issue be?

2- Rockford fosgate power 1501bd -Fried mosfet is stuck and idk if i should jst pry it off or if there's something i can use ..

Ill post some pics if needed..
1) It is not at all uncommon for there to be no visible damage and an amplifier to still be quite blown. If the fuse blows even before remote voltage is applied then your likely faults are shorted power supply FETs, shorted protection diode(s), problem with the power supply controller or the drivers for the power supply FETs (rarely occurs without the PS FETs being blown as well), or shorted transformer of input inductors. I would encourage you to sign up over at diyaudio.com and post in the car amplifier forum. There are a number of very talented people there who work on many amps other than Phoenix Gold.

2) Every Rockford amp I have ever worked on has had MESHA(sp?) insulators. The transistors are all soldered to the actual insulator. Do not try to pry it off, you will ruin the insulator and they are very difficult to find anyone who can supply a replacement. Again, there a lot of people over at DIYaudio, one gentleman in particular specializes in Rockford stuff, he will have probably have the answers you need as well as some spare parts.

Thanks,
Jason
M: M100, M44 for a custom amp project
Zx: Zx500, Zx450, Black Zx350
ZxTi: 4 Zx600Ti's, 1 Zx400Ti
Ti: 5 800.1's & 900.7 for a custom amp project. 1 1200.1, 1 1000.2
Tantrum: 2 1200.1's, 1 600.4, 1 500.2
XS: XS6600
MisterChan
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 5:06 am

Re: TI1200.1

Post by MisterChan »

ok will do. thanks. But back to the pg, i see a couple blown fets.. is there a specific one i should get to replace it?
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Jacampb2
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Re: TI1200.1

Post by Jacampb2 »

Replace with like for like if at all possible. The power supply FETs should all still be active and readily available. Do not order from eBay or Amazon, there are far to many counterfeits and it can easily turn a quick repair into a amp that you think is unrepairable!

A FET doesn't have to "look" blown to be bad, don't forget that. If you look at each power supply, you will see 8 FETs, 4 on either side of the small peninsula on the end of the board. When the power supply is working four transistors on one side are switched "on" and in parallel together while the other side of "off". If you find one bad transistor, at the minimum you HAVE to replace the other 3 that are on the same bank. Best practice is to replace all of them. As said above, check the gate resistors, probably some are open. If you apply power and the FETs gate is floating due to a open resistor you missed, then you can instantly blow all the FETs you just replaced. It gets expensive fast. After replacing those parts, power the amp up through a ~2 ohm current limiting resistor. If the amp will not power up or draws excessive current, then you probably have issues with the SG3525 PWM chip and/or the bjt pairs that drive the PS FETS. If that all checks out good, then you probably have shorted outputs. As said above, if outputs are shorted you can find problems in the power amp drivers and pre-drivers as well.

I have repaired a few of these amps, a 1200.1 and a 1000.2. Both of mine had far more damage to the board then yours does. In my case both of mine were failures of the power supplies that were on the side furthest away from the power input to the amp. I think I have repair threads on here for both amps if you search back about 6 years or so.

As a side note, look carefully for open tracks around the power supply where things got toasty. My amps had both pretty much destroyed the "peninsula" that the blown supply was on. From the looks of the melted clamp bar, yours got really hot at one point as well. It makes matters worse that someone else already put their mitts to it. You will have to track down both the previous techs screw ups and all the actual faults. It's a big project for a first time, but it can be done.

Good Luck,
Jason
M: M100, M44 for a custom amp project
Zx: Zx500, Zx450, Black Zx350
ZxTi: 4 Zx600Ti's, 1 Zx400Ti
Ti: 5 800.1's & 900.7 for a custom amp project. 1 1200.1, 1 1000.2
Tantrum: 2 1200.1's, 1 600.4, 1 500.2
XS: XS6600
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Jacampb2
Mad Scientist
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Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 11:57 pm
Location: Beaverton 48612

Re: TI1200.1

Post by Jacampb2 »

Here you go, don't know if it will help much, but...

Click for my Ti1200.1 repair

Click for TI1000.2 repair

Hope this helps.

Good Luck,
Jason
M: M100, M44 for a custom amp project
Zx: Zx500, Zx450, Black Zx350
ZxTi: 4 Zx600Ti's, 1 Zx400Ti
Ti: 5 800.1's & 900.7 for a custom amp project. 1 1200.1, 1 1000.2
Tantrum: 2 1200.1's, 1 600.4, 1 500.2
XS: XS6600
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