Phoenix Gold Phorum

Want to push 2 of the new RSD 12's. I deff. don't want to underpower anything, and I'm not sure how truly stought the 12's are cuz I've never used PG stuff. Should I do the 300.4 and 600.1 or the 500.4 and the 1200.1 ? If u see what I'm getting @ I'd like the amps to be the same size. Or should I just run 1 12 w/the 600.1 and 300.4. Here's where I stand I'm not wanting huge db's, I care about sound quality, chasing and fixing rattles doesn't bother me. I want to feel the bass though. I'm thinking 2 12's instead of 1. Questions, Comments, Advice?

2 x 12" RSD
RSD65cs
500.4
1200.1

And you're a happy man

i have ran the rsd12 with as small as a xs2300 (300 watts) and reamed it on a daily basis with my x600.1 (~800 watts) It will handle as much power as you can give it, but it still sounded great on 300 watts.

with the rsd600.1 in a 1.8cf box, you can expect about 136 db on music (as opposed to test tones) ultra clear and very low.

i think most people would be more then satisfied with the 300.4 and a single rsd12 on the 600.1, but only you know how much volume you need.

the rsd comps are pretty much then same: they will sound great on the 300.4, but will respond well to all the power you can give them.

if i were to put an rsd system into my car, i would go with the 300.4 duel bridged to comps in the front. a 600.1 to a rsd 12. and coax's ran of the rear channels of the deck so they could be faded in to be friendly to rear passengers when i felt like it.

just my $.02

Me personally... get a 500.4 and bridge the rear channels to your subs. Simple and I guarantee you that it's loud enough.

stipud wrote:Me personally... get a 500.4 and bridge the rear channels to your subs. Simple and I guarantee you that it's loud enough.

no lpl though...

Bfowler wrote:

stipud wrote:Me personally... get a 500.4 and bridge the rear channels to your subs. Simple and I guarantee you that it's loud enough.

no lpl though...

Tom has the Ti 500.4 so it does have LPL

However, I think we're talking RSD here, not Ti, so yeah, no LPL

The LPL is a great little knob.

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:great little knob.

You said great little knob!!

I'm currently running my RSD components and a single RSD 12 off of my zx 475Ti. It sounds great, but there are times I wish it had a bit more.

I'm getting ready to redo my system using my Ti 600.2 for the comps and my 1000.2 to my single 12. I'm sure that will be loud enough for any occasion.

That being said, I have to agree with Bfowler, only you will know how much output you need.

mr tibbs wrote:

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:great little knob.

You said great little knob!!

Rarely, but sometimes, a little knob is great.

In this case, the little knob is great.

Just put my RSD 6 1/2" comps in powered from a ZPA0.3 getting about 150 wrms per side and I must say, they sound as if they want more. Damn good bass output from those 6ers.

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:

mr tibbs wrote:

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:great little knob.

You said great little knob!!

Rarely, but sometimes, a little knob is great.

In this case, the little knob is great.

Sorry, the six year old inside my head takes over from time to time.

ok. I've decided.

rsd1200.1 , rsd 500.4, rsd 6.5" comps in front on the 500 front channel, rsd 5x7 coax in rear doors running off the 500 rear channel, rsd 6x9's coax in the rear deck running off the hu. And 2 rsd 12's in carpeted, sealed box built to spec. Hu will be the Pioneer AVIC-D3. KnuKonceptz.com Kolossus 1/0 gauge power and ground to capacitor(s) "undecided on capacitor(s)", 1/0 gauge from capacitor(s) to power dis. block, then 4 gauge Kolossus to amps and ground.

Capacitor recomendation? 1, 2 ? Brand, size? (2) 1.0 farads or (1) 1.5 farad?? Cheaper the better.

Also....lots of sound deadening, I want to do everything but take the dash out and the headliner, because I think that I would put a crease in the headliner and taking the dash out will be too time consuming. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<Can anyone recommend the cheapest known roll on, thick, super adhesive sound deadening? how bout a link?

And, I still need power and ground distribution blocks, knukonceptz has the ground but are sold out of the fused power 1's. I'm also unsure of the fuses I need to get for the fused distribution block. My Inline Fuse Holder for underneath the hood will have a 200A ANL fuse. I assume this will be plenty big. Anybody?

Lastly, a battery. Optima Red Top, Yellow Top, Blue, other brand?? I just planned on replacing the car battery itself instead of adding one in the trunk.

These are factory specs for my alternator output and battery:

Alternator Rating - 90/150 amp (max) @ 1,800-6,000 generator rpm, approximately 500-2,000 engine rpm

Battery Rating - 590 CCA , battery amps rating is 60 amps per hour.\

I assume I'll be ok with just replacing the factory batt. with a dry cell deep cycle. But I'm not sure on which 1 to get.


If anyone could help me rap the rest of this up, It would be extremely appreciated.

Thanks Truly,
Ryan Sauer

Ryan,

You don't need all that fancy crap. Just some 8 guage wire to the amps, and some 18 guage speaker wire is all you need. I see it all the time.

Seriously though, I'm interested to hear peoples opinions too, as I am going to be looking into the same types of things soon.

^^I would at least do 0 gauge wire to a distribution point, then 4 gauge to each amp. That RSd1200.1 will pull some serious juice.

Dont know if you have it in the US but Audison makes great install stuff http://www.connectionaudison.com/

AVICJR wrote:^^I would at least do 0 gauge wire to a distribution point, then 4 gauge to each amp. That RSd1200.1 will pull some serious juice.

I tend to agree. While I don't have personal experience with a 1200.1, or anything as powerful, I feel that 1/0 to a distro and 4 to the amps is a great way to build a flexible power infrastructure for any decently sized (two amp or more) system. It also leaves options open should the install change.

It's not as cheap to build a system with 1/0, distro blocks and 4 gauge as it is to build just two 8 or 4 gauge runs but it's cleaner, more flexible and insures that the amps are not being limited by input power.

I've been "temporarily" running dual 8 gauge to an M44 and single 4 gauge to an M100 for a while now and it certainly works. These amps are probably less hungry than the RSDs you mention but still, I know I'm not currently starving them. That said, I am upgrading to 1/0 with distro and 4 to the amps.

I have a Xenon X1200.1 and X200.2, and I personally am running 0 gauge to trunk and 4 gauge to amps. I also have an aftermarket 220 amp high output alternator and a Optima Yellowtop. My X1200.1 has both power terminals connected (2 runs of 4 gauge) and I still get headlight dimming on heavier bass notes.

i ran a 0/1 wire fused, all the way to the trunk into a fused distribution box . From there 4 gauge to the rsd1200.1 and another 4 to rsd250.2. stock alternator ( 80A ) .Upgraded the battery though. These amps to a pair of rsd65cs and a single rsd12" at 2. Works great

I'm running 2 guage (w/the big 3 under the hood) to a fused distro and then 4 guage to my ZPA0.3 and ZPA0.5. I've been told to go bigger to those amps, but from the distro to the amps it's only 1 1/2 to 2 feet. At full tilt I have no problems w/dimming or any other power symptoms.

As stated, I have the big 3 under the hood, all 2 guage, and I went and got GMs HD 130 amp alt and a Yellow top Optima battery.

I have a stainless steel PG powerflow cable selector chart (won from ebay) and it states that at 16' at 1400 watt rms, 2 guage is good. I have my amps set to draw 1300 wrms total, so I don't see the need to go to 1/0 guage.

fordtough1 wrote:Ryan,

You don't need all that fancy crap. Just some 8 guage wire to the amps, and some 18 guage speaker wire is all you need. I see it all the time.

Seriously though, I'm interested to hear peoples opinions too, as I am going to be looking into the same types of things soon.

Jeff, already bought the 1/0 and 4 gauge wires. I still need speaker wire, cap(s), power and ground dis. blocks. , 200a inline fuse and all my amp wiring and connectors are on the way. Scheduled delivery is Friday, they on transit to Lenexa through UPS.

So, what gauge speaker wire to door speakers and sub, and which capacitor (s) and what size fuses for the fused dis. block is what I need to know.

I was kidding about the 8 gauge anyway.

I ran 12 gauge speaker wire throughout. Really you only need 12 to the subs and 16 to everything else. Or at least thats what I've been told. For me it was just easier to buy a roll of 12 gauge.

As for fuse size I don't know, but I assume you want them to be the same or lower then the fuses in the amps, but I may be wrong. Opinions guys?

Capacitor(s) would be your choice. I've always heard 1 farad for every 1000 watts, but I don't know if it's better to have seperate caps, or one bigger cap. Again opinions guys?

someone on the fusion forumn suggested I run 2 1 farad caps in parrallel. Optima emailed me back telling me they don't make anything for my application. ......... (TAKES BREATH) "@#$_)$^*&Y!!!!!!"

Do you know why you want to install caps?

If you're unsure as to why you should or shouldn't use a cap (or multiple caps), it's probably best to find out exactly why people install them and make the decision as to whether you want/need them and then, which one(s) would be best for your installation.

PG makes a 1 farad cap and you should be able to find at least one on ebay right now for ~$50.

the 2 caps in parallel is a fine idea, it will make the 2 caps work essentially as one.

i would hit up the Partsexpress.com site and see what they have for caps, they usually have oem brands for a good value.-

Well I found an Odyssey battery that will work "PC1200MJT". Thanks for the advice on AllPak batteries Jeff! I've decided on "1" 2.0 farad cap, so I don't have to mess with a bunch of extra wiring and $. I've also decided to not put 6x9" coax's in the rear deck for the same reason, plus I've heard it will make the bass sound muddy from the subs. So I'm just taking out the factory 6x9's and re-installing the grills and using the holes as a "sound port" for the bass coming from the trunk.