Anyone ever run 6.5" midbass drivers in a back seat and comps up front?
Would it sound crappy?
Thinking about a time when I actually will want to dump more money into my car...
Run 6.5" comps in the front doors and 6.5" midbass in the back doors or something, maybe run a xenon 200.4 or something else that has some pretty big balls . I am throwing this around to potentially avoid putting a sub in the hatch to get stolen again though I do still have an Elite 12d that would fit nicely back there ...
Has anyone ever run a midbass that sounded ok open air in a door?
What is the forum recommendation for a sealed 12d elite box? No way it is the 1.6 in the manual especially given my RSd was in 1.8 cuft and sounded excellent.
I run midranges in my rear door to help out with the lack of midrange in the back seat... there's no problem for treble to get back there with all the windows to reflect off of, but the midrange up front is absorbed by bodies and seats.
Midbass in the rear probably wouldn't be a great idea... just give your RSD components ample power and enclosure, and they should have all the midbass you need.
use some plumbers tape to secure the box by bolting it down under the rear seat or something. that way they would have to spend some serious time to get out your gear
my ex-girlfriend said "its car audio or me"
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
use some plumbers tape to secure the box by bolting it down under the rear seat or something. that way they would have to spend some serious time to get out your gear
True, maybe I will do that when I get a sub an amp down the road. I like the bolting idea : ). I would have plenty of time to get out there with the 2way alarm going off and them having to unbolt shit, haha.
I don't know if I would want to run the elite in there though. I would have to upgrade power if I went that way and I don't want to spend the money for a battery or alternator or to have 2 amps in there. The vw has a 120 amp alternator and handled the 500.4 well.
I do like the idea of an x200.4 though. I never got to try anything xenon out. How is the x200.4 with current draw? Can you use 4 gauge without a prob?
stipud wrote:I run midranges in my rear door to help out with the lack of midrange in the back seat... there's no problem for treble to get back there with all the windows to reflect off of, but the midrange up front is absorbed by bodies and seats.
Midbass in the rear probably wouldn't be a great idea... just give your RSD components ample power and enclosure, and they should have all the midbass you need.
I never did get to enclose my comps, they didn't get taken but I dont wanna mess w my doors and I was gonna have to jump through hoops to keep the door unmodified if I sealed them in the door. Once I got the sub I didn't even mind that they were open air.
I'll probably end up with a full compliment up front (enclosed 6.5 LF, 4MR and tweets) using matched BA passive xovers and another set of 6.5LF enclosed in the rear using the amp's LF xover. I'm going to push 125-150 watts into each front channel and 80-100 into each rear 6.5LF. I have a selection of amps from which to choose. Then I'll decide if the lower end needs some help with larger woofs.
As you can see, Tom has advised against separating the comps. I'll take that advice, but will build where I can disconnect the front 6.5LF for testing and will post results.
The only stupid question is the one not asked .......
I wouldn't want to run anything but midbass drivers in teh rear, for a true fill effect. No tweets in teh rear that pulls the stage to the rear.
If you have midbass drivers in the rear and it pulls the stage to the rear you have one or possibly two things happening, one of which is easily adjusted.
a) you have the level too high, simply turn them down or fade forward if they are connected to the deck.
2) The rear drivers are mounted too close to your ears and are heard before your front speakers, this takes some work to move them farther away, and may be impractical.
Personally I wouldn't want to run anything but subs in the rear and run your tweets/horns midrange/midbass whatever in the front to keep the soundstage up there where it belongs.
I've ran IDQ 6.5's in the door before and know others who have and they sounded pretty darn good.
Just my 2 cents
Head Unit: Eclipse CD5000
Amp1: Ti 500.4
Amp2: MPS2500
Crossover: Audiocontrol 6xs
High/Mids: ID CD1-E v1 Horns
Midbass: IDQ 6.5 v2
Subs: IDQ 12 v1
EQ: PG EQ215-X
soth wrote:Personally I wouldn't want to run anything but subs in the rear and run your tweets/horns midrange/midbass whatever in the front to keep the soundstage up there where it belongs.
I've ran IDQ 6.5's in the door before and know others who have and they sounded pretty darn good.
Just my 2 cents
That's how my system is currently, just frints and sub, if I could get the sub up front I would do that too.
I've been toying with the idea of using some of my left over mids to run some rear fill, you'd never know they were there until I turned them off and the sound stage falls. I've set up a few systems like this and enjoyed them.
soth wrote:Personally I wouldn't want to run anything but subs in the rear and run your tweets/horns midrange/midbass whatever in the front to keep the soundstage up there where it belongs.
I've ran IDQ 6.5's in the door before and know others who have and they sounded pretty darn good.
Just my 2 cents
That's how my system is currently, just frints and sub, if I could get the sub up front I would do that too.
I've been toying with the idea of using some of my left over mids to run some rear fill, you'd never know they were there until I turned them off and the sound stage falls. I've set up a few systems like this and enjoyed them.
Gotcha
I wouldn't mind if I had the money and time to make it work is to have some horns up front with some 6.5 mids in the kicks and some 8's in the door with 2 15's in the back.
A lot of people run mids in the rear for rear fill, but it's just a personal taste that I acquired after listening to all the stuff up front for the soundstage is all.
Cheers
Head Unit: Eclipse CD5000
Amp1: Ti 500.4
Amp2: MPS2500
Crossover: Audiocontrol 6xs
High/Mids: ID CD1-E v1 Horns
Midbass: IDQ 6.5 v2
Subs: IDQ 12 v1
EQ: PG EQ215-X
Phoenixcolt wrote:I never did get to enclose my comps, they didn't get taken but I dont wanna mess w my doors and I was gonna have to jump through hoops to keep the door unmodified if I sealed them in the door. Once I got the sub I didn't even mind that they were open air.
I don't mean to seal them completely... deadening is all it takes.
soth wrote:Personally I wouldn't want to run anything but subs in the rear and run your tweets/horns midrange/midbass whatever in the front to keep the soundstage up there where it belongs.
I've ran IDQ 6.5's in the door before and know others who have and they sounded pretty darn good.
Just my 2 cents
Yeah that's all I had going on before, sub in the back, comps up front. The rear coaxes were hooked up to the deck which I was able to turn on or off at my discretion through clarions amp cancel. I only turned them on when people sat back there. Will prob go the route Fowler shows up there.
Sweet! Would def save a little room too. I just had the amp laid out before which was obviously a bad idea...I should have hidden it somewhere but I liked to look at it...but next time I will not see it that way.
Phoenixcolt wrote:I never did get to enclose my comps, they didn't get taken but I dont wanna mess w my doors and I was gonna have to jump through hoops to keep the door unmodified if I sealed them in the door. Once I got the sub I didn't even mind that they were open air.
I don't mean to seal them completely... deadening is all it takes.
Hmmm...deadening them how?
I had the metal circle the speaker screws into dynamatted but maybe I should put some dynamat around the speaker hole from the inside of the door panel as well.
Directly behind the speaker only has that crappy vapor barrier and nothing to really stick dynamat onto and I don't think it would do much to put dmat over the barrier...unless it would keep some of the sound from getting lost inside the door. Would dmat xtreme keeps me from losing some of the midbass to the inside of the door if I put it right over the vapor barrier?
you would want to put some dynamat behind the speaker on the door panel to stop vibrations (vibrations need energy....energy that should be sound) but the best use of it would be if there are any holes in the door panel on the side the speaker is mounted on. if sound is getting through the holes, its probably causing cancellation
my ex-girlfriend said "its car audio or me"
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
Here's a link to how I deadened the doors. You don't have to use as much as I did, but I do recommend you put some foam insulate like the Teklite I used directly behind the driver. You can cut away or put over the moisture barrier. This made a tremendous improvement in SQ.
AVICJR wrote:Here's a link to how I deadened the doors. You don't have to use as much as I did, but I do recommend you put some foam insulate like the Teklite I used directly behind the driver. You can cut away or put over the moisture barrier. This made a tremendous improvement in SQ.
Like everyone said deaden your doors, mount the RSD 6.5 on a solid surface and those things can jump. to much.
I had them in fiberglassed door panels with he deadened car run off one side of the ms1000ta w/ the passive. I dropped them down to I think it was 40hz with a 4th order slope and those little woofers had the change jumping in my center console. Yes it was sloppy but fun, very fun drivers.
I would love to do like 10 in the rear self or something silly like that.
Can one send others to war if hes not willing to go himself?
I have some Dayton Audio Reference Series 5" running as my rears and they are mounted in stock ported boxes. Because of the port, the lower end of the driver is much more pronounced than the higher end. They sound like midbass drivers from where I am sitting.
I run them off the deck because I don't feel that they would benefit from any formal amplification. Even then, I have them faded to about 25% of the volume when the balance is at zero. At this volume, the only likely thing that actually remains audible in the front at any decent listening volume is the mid bass.
It doesn't add anything, really. However, since I have too high of an HP filter (125Hz) installed right now and my subs are crossed at 90Hz, the Dayton may contribute to evening out that 35Hz (slope, yeah yeah) gap.
My opinion? Not really a big deal either way but if you do, don't crank 'em.
I know I replied way too late for any of that to be useful.
bdubs767 wrote:I had them in fiberglassed door panels with he deadened car run off one side of the ms1000ta w/ the passive. I dropped them down to I think it was 40hz with a 4th order slope and those little woofers had the change jumping in my center console. Yes it was sloppy but fun, very fun drivers.
Are we talking two 6.5 RSD mid ranges? Impressive.
I would expect them to be sloppy at 40Hz, especially with as much power as the MS1000ta can throw at them... But still, impressive.
I've had mine playing without being crossed and at 75Hz and when it came down to it, there was little difference in musical response. 75Hz was fuller than my damn 125Hz crossover right now I need to get soldering those RNETs up.
bdubs767 wrote:I had them in fiberglassed door panels with he deadened car run off one side of the ms1000ta w/ the passive. I dropped them down to I think it was 40hz with a 4th order slope and those little woofers had the change jumping in my center console. Yes it was sloppy but fun, very fun drivers.
Are we talking two 6.5 RSD mid ranges? Impressive.
I would expect them to be sloppy at 40Hz, especially with as much power as the MS1000ta can throw at them... But still, impressive.
I've had mine playing without being crossed and at 75Hz and when it came down to it, there was little difference in musical response. 75Hz was fuller than my damn 125Hz crossover right now I need to get soldering those RNETs up.
Not that bad actually @ 40hz w/ a 24db slope, little sloppy down from 40hz to 50hz, but with the steep slope I could live with it. Not something I'd use in real install but I would have no problem leaving it crossed at 50hz with a 4th order slope.
Can one send others to war if hes not willing to go himself?
. I am throwing this around to potentially avoid putting a sub in the hatch to get stolen again though I do still have an Elite 12d that would fit nicely back there 
... 
I need to get soldering those RNETs up.