Well i really need one so gonna pick one up soon....Im leanign to the skil because I hard its killer for the price and for the little use it will see from me should be perfect. A porter cable like router would be a waste as Ill onyl use ti like 4 times a year.
http://www.skilshop.com/routers/1820.html
then Ill pick up these for it
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=365-260
but WTF kind of bits will I need? Im lookign to round edges off, flush mounting drivers, and obv to cut holes.
routers
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dedlyjedly
- Silent but Dedly
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas
I run a Porter Cable 890. I got the router, plunge base, fixed base, and 1/4" and 1/2" collets for $229, plus a rebate for a free PC finishing sander. I mounted the fixed base in a table and then got a circle attachment to keep on the plunge base all the time. I love this beast and highly recommend it, but can definitely understand your logic for a less expensive router, but remember this is a tool that you could have the rest of your life if it's properly maintained. Also, i'm hesitant to cut corners when it comes to a tool that spins razor sharp blades @ 23,000 rpms!
Either way, once you get a router you'll need some good bits. Even if you get an inexpensive router, DO NOT get cheap router bits!!! I highly recommend Whiteside Machine, but there are a few other premium names out there for bits. Regardless of name brand, you want to purchase solid carbide steel bits, not just carbide "tipped" or "edged" bits.
try www.routerbits.com for the best pricing.
some examples of commonly used bits are as follows:
rounded edges = roundover bits (changing bearings allows you to "bead")
concave edges = cove bits (opposite of roundover bits)
angled edges = chamfer bits
edge duplication = flush trim (primarily spiral cut, double fluted for aluminum)
notched edges = rabbet bit set (uses several different diameter bearings)
In addition to the bits themselves you'll find there's a never-ending list of accessories that makes the router capable of all kinds of cool stuff. check out www.mobilesolutions-usa.com to explore the possibilities.
Either way, once you get a router you'll need some good bits. Even if you get an inexpensive router, DO NOT get cheap router bits!!! I highly recommend Whiteside Machine, but there are a few other premium names out there for bits. Regardless of name brand, you want to purchase solid carbide steel bits, not just carbide "tipped" or "edged" bits.
try www.routerbits.com for the best pricing.
some examples of commonly used bits are as follows:
rounded edges = roundover bits (changing bearings allows you to "bead")
concave edges = cove bits (opposite of roundover bits)
angled edges = chamfer bits
edge duplication = flush trim (primarily spiral cut, double fluted for aluminum)
notched edges = rabbet bit set (uses several different diameter bearings)
In addition to the bits themselves you'll find there's a never-ending list of accessories that makes the router capable of all kinds of cool stuff. check out www.mobilesolutions-usa.com to explore the possibilities.
Last edited by dedlyjedly on Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:45 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Bfowler
- Briaans..... BRIAAAAANNNNNNS
- Posts: 10764
- Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:06 am
- Location: So easy, a cavewomen could do him
depending in how much you will use it, that one will be fine.
the one i use is a black and Decker i picked up for $50.
the most important thing is the plunge option. and don't skimp on the bits. (my straight bit cost as much as my router)
the one i use is a black and Decker i picked up for $50.
the most important thing is the plunge option. and don't skimp on the bits. (my straight bit cost as much as my router)
my ex-girlfriend said "its car audio or me"
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
The router is just a motor, as Fowler said the bits are what will cost you.
I suggest a Plunge router, my personal taste is Porter Cable.
For Bits look at Jesada. Always look for a carbide edge with bearings and multi-flute designs work best for MDF machining.
I suggest a Plunge router, my personal taste is Porter Cable.
For Bits look at Jesada. Always look for a carbide edge with bearings and multi-flute designs work best for MDF machining.
I think we've established that "Ka Ka" and "Tukki Tukki" don't work.
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dedlyjedly
- Silent but Dedly
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas
i use a 1/2" spiral-cut flush trim bit for just about everything i duplicate using jigs or templates. the only time i opt for the straight-cut fluted bits is when cutting aluminum and other non-ferrous metals or really thick acrylics.
a spiral-cut bit is constantly removing the debris from the cutting surface and the blade never leaves the cutting surface thus offering a smoother, more consistent cut. spiral-cut bits come in two varietys; downcut and upcut. an upcut bit pulls the material towards the router, while a downcut's spiral attempts to push the material away from the router. an upcut it typically used in an inverted table router so that the cutting material is pulled down to the table and the debris is literally pulled down into the table's dust collection chamber. a downcut is best used in a handheld router such as a plunge router mounted with a circle attatchment.
as for the "flush mount" i believe you're referring to a rabbet bit when mounting a driver in flush in a baffle. a rabbet bit is essentially a straight fluted flush trim bit with varying bearing sizes. by swapping out the bearings you can vary the depth of the cut into the material.
i usually browse the whiteside catalog here to find the manufacturer's part number www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs
and then type that part number in the search feature of www.routerbits.com. it's difficult to search routerbits.com without the part numbers.
a spiral-cut bit is constantly removing the debris from the cutting surface and the blade never leaves the cutting surface thus offering a smoother, more consistent cut. spiral-cut bits come in two varietys; downcut and upcut. an upcut bit pulls the material towards the router, while a downcut's spiral attempts to push the material away from the router. an upcut it typically used in an inverted table router so that the cutting material is pulled down to the table and the debris is literally pulled down into the table's dust collection chamber. a downcut is best used in a handheld router such as a plunge router mounted with a circle attatchment.
as for the "flush mount" i believe you're referring to a rabbet bit when mounting a driver in flush in a baffle. a rabbet bit is essentially a straight fluted flush trim bit with varying bearing sizes. by swapping out the bearings you can vary the depth of the cut into the material.
i usually browse the whiteside catalog here to find the manufacturer's part number www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs
and then type that part number in the search feature of www.routerbits.com. it's difficult to search routerbits.com without the part numbers.