Phoenix Gold Phorum

does any one know if a ms2250 can run @ 1ohm. If so what is the power at that ohm. I have hard that it can be done.

http://webfaq.phoenixphorum.com/MS_MPS.htm

According to the FAQ sheet it doesnt seem to. But some of the more experienced guys might be able to say for sure.

http://phoenixphorum.com/upgrading-a-ms ... 41-25.html
Something to check out there for ya.

Anything can be done in moderation, but 1 ohm presents a whole new world of heat issues on a original 2250.
The original 2250 was rated well over 1000 watts at 4 ohms mono, so why does the 1 ohm number look good to you ? And is that a mono number or a stereo number ?

You will find PG amps were pretty stable into most any load until your eggs and bacon were well done while sitting on the sinks And unless your looking for great radiant heaters class AB amps are not the best first choice of 1 ohm or less loads

If your into the 1 ohm thing look at class D amps, they are more prone to less heat issues at the 1 ohm or less region... Although most Asian D class amps are not really 1 ohm built on their outputs at least they are CHEAP to replace cause you chose run 1 ohm IMO

" If you need eleventy-billion watts RMS please buy eleventy-billion watts at 4 ohms. Your amps will live longer and your disappointment will be limited to normal issues in car stereo"

And how many battery's were you planning on pulling behind your ride to get the 1 ohm power with ??? Seriously 1 ohm power is a realm of its own, and not for light of pocket....

Excuse my brutal honesty, I would rather seem brutal then see you get involved in a costly affair that leaves you with a bad feeling about PG or car audio in general....

1moreamp wrote:Seriously 1 ohm power is a realm of its own, and not for light of pocket....

I have been running my mps 1ohm stereo (1/2 ohm total load) since August. I have had to replace the battery three times.

So I hear ya on that one lmao.

I just did not know what would be the best sub to amp. I will be running new jl subs and they make 2-8ohm subs. I do know I want to run there 13.5 of some version. Just like to know what one that will use all the power I have with out burning up the subs. I have seen the PH ratings for the amp. Put the first owner said it is off on power rating. He had 6 10" solo-b old round ones and the amp was almost to much for them. Looking for help

Well I am trying to help, and If I were you I would stick with a class D amp for very low ohm loads.

You need to be a bit more specific as to the final load on the amp, is it going to be two 2 ohm loads in parallel to give a 1 ohm final load and are you running the amp in mono at 1 ohm load which is like 1/2 ohm per channel ???

Only the MPS series were intended for this sort of use and using a original MS-2250 at these loads will have heat issues and power demand issues. I.E. you will need many battery's to handle the current draw for this setup in class AB amps and with class D amps you will get twice the bang for the buck both money wise and power wise.

The big plus is that the class D amp will not turn your trunk into a BBQ pit with heat build up and the output power to the speakers will be about twice for the same amount of power into the amp from the 12 volt side.

Are you running four corners in the vehicle I.E. front and rear mids and tweets ? I use a big amp on my mids and tweets but I have very little issues with it like this and I have no blown tweeters either now that I have my highs power by a big amp.

Again the MS-2250 is a great amp, but at the loads YOU insist on running its very possibly going to give you headaches like heat and current draw...etc...
As for power output that will be limited by the heatsink size since you chose to run the amp below its rated load figures. You see the load drops in half along with damping factor < I.E. speaker control by the amp> and the current draw doubles and the heat load doubles with each step from 4 ohms to 2 ohms and them to 1 ohm, so you quadruple the demand both current , and heat load to the sink at 1 ohm, and since this was NOT intended by PG you will have issues especially if your out to bang the gong so to speak with your bass.


How many car battery's are you planning on using ??? you will need more than one, and possibly like three or more to handle this load along with very high output alternators to recharge the system with.

Thats is how much power you will get with a one ohm load on a original MS-2250...It will all depend on how much battery money and alternator money you have... If that sounds vague well it is the truth, your power will only be as good as you supply the amp, and in this case you have a monster on your hands and monsters like to get feed lots of power, and with that power feed issue in the picture its pretty much impossible to say what you will get to your speakers...But you would get almost twice as much with class D amps and thats a fact also my friend.....C

I am not sure what the difference in guts the MS 2125 is but I run my 2125 at 1.34 ohms mono really hard and it hasn't started on fire just YET.

gridracer wrote:I am not sure what the difference in guts the MS 2125 is but I run my 2125 at 1.34 ohms mono really hard and it hasn't started on fire just YET.

I'm really sorry to hear that you're abusing a great amp like that!
What did it ever do to you!?

Your not running a 2250 at those loads and the heatsink is the issue not the amp at those loads my friend. the 2125 was one of the safest power to sink ratio designs I ever saw. The 2250 was the MAX design for the sink size that PG ever built and thats why they built shrouds also, the 2125 never needed a shroud, its sink was ample enough to allow for the output your getting plus there are power supply difference that are also limiting the dynamic output well below the max output of a 2250 running the same load.
The rails inside are about 30% lower on a 2125 then a 2250 this alone makes the amp more heat stable at your load.

Please remember all low ohm amps have very low rails like +&- 25 volts and the such your 2125 has +&- 42 volt rails and the 2250 has +&- 63 volt rails inside... so you see the voltage differences here to achieve the power differences and that voltage equals heat at 1 ohm loads.... I hope I explained myself and PG here a bit better,, As I don't want to cause any confusion as to why your setup works and the 2250 will have issues.
Oh by the way the MPS 2500 has like +&- 25 volt rails inside tha amp so yes its a true low ohm monster with all current drive to the speakers at 1 ohm or less...Oh and all the cheater amps were built this way and by all I mean PPI, Orion, Hifonics etc... All had very low voltage inside so the had really high current output to 1 ohm loads not high voltage thats how they lived so long.......C


PS only class D amps can use 150 volt outputs into 1 ohm because they are not operated linear, they are either on or off digital switch mode with hardly any power loss and storage effects due to the very extreme on and off pulse rates they operate at...

dedlyjedly wrote:

gridracer wrote:I am not sure what the difference in guts the MS 2125 is but I run my 2125 at 1.34 ohms mono really hard and it hasn't started on fire just YET.

I'm really sorry to hear that you're abusing a great amp like that!
What did it ever do to you!?

I don't really feel that I am abusing it I have it wired properly with 1/0 awg power and ground and my alternator is a high output 200 amp I have upgraded the big 3 wires to 1/0 awg. I have replaced the caps also. It went into thermal protect once after driving about 80 miles on a very hot day playing the stereo loud and since then I added fans to push/pull air across the heatsink and never had a thermal since. I have never tripped my very underrated 100 amp circuit breaker, even though I also have an M100 and an M50 ( soon to be my other M100) in the system

I only wanted to know if it was possible to run it at 1ohm. Now I know it is not thanks. I will use the amp but I will not go below the ohm ratting.

That is way I wanted to know what 13.5 jl subs would work the best I will have three. Also I do have mids and highs. They will be powered by a zx450v2.
It is a 03 f-150 super crew. I want to have very reliable system. I have a 180amp alt and a opti batt will be running 1/0 or bigger power wire and ground. Also will use 5.0 cap. I have a family member how works for jl and think I might run the new w5.
I still have not made up my mind. I may use other subs but I have very little air space. I need a sub that takes less then 1.0 of air space. The w5 do this and I believe they sound good and hit hard. But if any one else has an idea. But they must hit hard and fit. Like I said though I will be using the ms2250 to power them.

Thanks for all the help guys&girls

You ever want to sell it you now know where to sell it, we here all love the 2250, even if it has limitations its one beautiful amplifier at 4 ohms and 2....And we all wish you the best on your up coming system....C