Phoenix Gold Phorum

whats better guys...

3 ft from the amps

or from battery to amps?



I run from battery back, but I was arguing with some guy about...so which is better really?

Battery to the Amp, however you'll need to ground all other audio devices at the amp in this case to avoid ground loops.

VW337 wrote:Battery to the Amp, however you'll need to ground all other audio devices at the amp in this case to avoid ground loops.

well I should say distro block instead of amp....to be clear but o well you get the idea. I knew that for ealier discussion w/ you and paul last year but why is it better for a tech aspect?

heres why I ask...
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/sho ... ge=2&pp=15




read the davidtemp guys post pages 2-3 and youll know who I am[/quote]

god bless bimmers. the battery is already in the trunk

I ground to the battery, but that's just me.

See lower right corner................



Notice two 1/0 leads?
1 to amp
1 to chassis

Notice lower left corner?
1 to alt.

but why is it better besides we say so?

because when you ground it to a point in your car, it is using you car as the medium to conduct the power back to the battery.

when you ground directly to your battery you are using a nice copper wire instead of your cars frame.

New cars are spot welded together, spot welds are a horrible way to conduct current, each spot causing resistance, each resistive spot is a possible point of noise or current loss. Solid copper no loss higher voltage.............

Not to mention piece of mind.

Are you guys spending the same on wire that I have to?

Seriously, you have way too much money if you can run 0 gauge everywhere that it would be theoretically useful.

stipud wrote:Are you guys spending the same on wire that I have to?

That is a silly question...............

lol.....oh tom....you silly goose.

(then again, i only have used about 15 feet TOTAL from my battery to a disti, to both amps, and grounds back

stipud wrote:Are you guys spending the same on wire that I have to?

Seriously, you have way too much money if you can run 0 gauge everywhere that it would be theoretically useful.

o silly tom I have about 150 ft of 1/0 that I paid maybe 100 for,


Watch for left over rolls on ebay they go for dirt cheap

I got 50ft of 2/0 for free. But I went and bought 8 feet of 1/0 for an install a while back, distro block to the battery for the ground only cost about $35.

I had to spend $120 on a Rockford "Type-RF" 2 gauge wiring kit for the Saab (and that was supposed to be a good deal!)

Awhile ago they had a wholesaler with stinger 1/0 kits for $75 cad. In hindsight I should have bought a lot more than the 2 I got, because I could have used them a million times over, or sold them for a profit.

I think a dealer caught wind of how cheap they were and bought them all up right afterwards, because they were gone the next time I went there. At a dealer, the kits go for about $250 a pop. I hate buying stuff here

but isnt it the closer to the ground you can get the better because you can lose current in long distances due to resistance and if you have 3ft as opposed to 10ft wouldnt it still be better to have the shorter distance?

3ft -> frame + 10ft over the frame = 13ft to the battery ground

OR

13ft of 1/0

Same thing really.

I spent $220 on wire and accessories for my install, just to keep the PG name.

stipud wrote:3ft -> frame + 10ft over the frame = 13ft to the battery ground

OR

13ft of 1/0

Same thing really.

Which would be a lot cheaper I would assume than getting 0/1 from batter to amps and for most people would be the preferred method?

It's cheaper to ground to the frame, but you're likely to have a higher resistance thru the frame than thru 1/0.

exactly^

a. Upgrade factory wire from battery B+ to alternator B+ with 0Ga
b. Upgrade factory wire from battery B- to vehicle frame with 0Ga
c. Upgrade factory wire from battery B- to engine block. (I recommend adding another 0 Ga from engine block to vehicle frame using 0Ga. Remember, the alternator B- is really the engine block)
d. Install qty 2 distro blocks within 36in of the amps - one block for B+, one for B-
e. Run a 0Ga directly from battery B+ to distro B+. Remember to correctly fuse within 18" of battery
f. Run a 0Ga directly from battery B- to distro B-
g. Run a 0Ga from cap B+ to distro B+
h. Run a 0Ga from cap B- to distro B-
i. Cap is now in parallel
j. Distribute ALL power to EVERY componet from the distros, ensuring correct fusing is intact. (Inserting a DD5 or DD10 here is preferred if external sound processors are delpoyed - ESP, EpiCentre, 406A etc. and don't forget any "indash" components. If needed, another distro can be added to existing distro using 0Ga

You will not have power issues with this setup.
Performing a. will ensure your alternator is efficiently providing power (B+) for the entire vehicle.
A vehicle frame or engine block will introduce resistance (creating a potential difference = noise) and should not be used as a ground for high performance audio systems. Performing b. & c. will create a single point ground, therefore eliminating any ground loops. Installing a dedicated B- distro is best.

Use a battery that has both top and side posts. Use the top posts to distribute power to vehicle and use the side post to connect to the B+ distro.

Yes, a properly wired vehicle will cost $250-$400. Do it right. It's worth it. No noise, no fires, and it protects your investment.....

HH

anyone tried welding cable? stuff is nice and flexable

Welding cable?
Do you mean braided flat cable?
Braided cable for ground straps is excellent. Solder wick the ends with a blow torch then drill a hole for direct mounting to chassis or engine block.

HH