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Cooling fans for M100 + M44
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:47 am
by SCHAFRANEK
Hi guys,
I'm sketching a bit on a setup for my M100 + M44 (see pic below) and need some input when it comes to cooling/overheating. I'm gonna place the amps next to each other in a rather closed space as you can see...
Since I hide away everything but the heatsinks, do I then need xtra cooling? My plan is to place 2 fans (build for computers since I dont have more than 2"x3" of space) in each side.
Any comments on how thats gonna work?
The M100 will run a Tymphany LAT500 4ohm, the M44 a set of Boston Pro 6.53...
/Schafranek_
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:44 am
by 1moreamp
Forced air cooling will require the fins to be tunneled so the air stays in contact with the sink until its exit. This usual requires the fins get a shroud like cover across them and the ends have fans attached. This is the way PG built their fan shrouds for these amps.
I have seen a few pictured on this site perhaps a search by you can pull them back up.
The spec sheet for the amps asked that the fins face upward as I recall, and yours appear to facing sideways. This could cause a heat build up depending on how hard your going to push the amps. This might require your attention.
I have seen plexi covering the fins and then fans on the ends, 1 blowing in, and one blowing out . I have also seen both fans blowing outward, and holes or slits in the very center of the plexi for fresh air entry in the center of the sink.
Thermo-dynamics says the center of the sink will attempt to store the maximum unvented heat build up. so this should be considered when designing a appropriate vented air flow scheme. This is similar to the ZX and Ti fan vent system you see on those amps...Just my 2 cents worth, I hope its helpful in your quest....

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:56 am
by SCHAFRANEK
I like your 2 cents...
I have to place the amps sideways to fit it in the trunk of my car.
Next step will be to add plexi in front of the sinks to make a tunnel for the air to flow through...and then have the PG logo cut into the plexi as a fresh air entry. -On top of that fans on both ends.
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:09 pm
by 1moreamp

sounds good, I would like you to post pics when your done. I am interested in your results....C
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:17 pm
by SCHAFRANEK
You might have to remind me...I won't be installed until sometime this summer due to examns and other boring stuff...But I got access to lasercutters at uni so I'll make the preliminary work/cutting before that.
I also might install some "hinges" to make it possible to tilt the amps upwards to make it easier to adjust controls/change cables etc...
Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 3:35 am
by SCHAFRANEK
I've been told that especially on older amps like the M-series it's not a very good idea to enclose them as I plan to. They need minimum ½" clearance to cool properly.
If it was a new amp (digital) I might be able to do as I plan they say...
Anyone who tried what I'm about to do and wants to share some experience?
Otherwise I just do as planned so far.
Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:53 am
by SCHAFRANEK
Here's a pic of how I'm planning to build it with sub, fans, a condensator, amps and a front + plexi.
Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 1:34 pm
by stipud
Wow... you are pretty talented with CAD

Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:00 pm
by rdjorge
Tha LAT should sound pretty nice! Where are you putting the ports at ?
Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 1:45 am
by SCHAFRANEK
Thanks, stipud. The program I use is SketchUp though...
rdjorge> No ports. It sounds really nice, especially when you compare price and size. I've heard it in a competition car and it was
The sub needs minimum 40 litres but "people" say that the closer you get to 80 litres, the deeper the bass. If you decide to port it, it is also an 80 litres cabinet you need.
Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:38 am
by SCHAFRANEK
I came up with an alternative solution that might work without the fans for cooling. -and then I made a CAD-file so I can lasercut the PG-logo and glue it on the final result
