Phoenix Gold Phorum

Anyone care to take a picture of the remote, unwrapped? It looks like they have their values marked on them. I can make out the center frequency value in the pic in the other recent thread, looks like 10K, but not the boost volume pot, looks like maybe 10k as well. If one of you wants to do this, I will see if I can make a few controls for the folks who are missing them. I think I still have the remote for mine w/ the frequency pot still in place, but I am pretty sure I robbed the volume pot off it for another project...

Good pics of both sides of the PCB would be nice as well, in case I can't find mine to RE it. If I do it, I won't charge any more than the parts for you guys.

Later,
Jason

i promised to do this a while back for a guy and forgot...i will try and remember for you this weekend!

Okay, I got all of the components figured out. Things will be a tiny bit different than the original remotes, namely in that the freq. adjust pot shaft will not be removable. I doubt any of you actually want to remove it, and although I can get those pots, they are about 6x the cost of a normal one. So, to reiterate my original statement, I will make these for the guys that need them for nothing but the cost of parts and shipping. Here is a parts list w/ mouser part numbers, so you can verify I am not trying to rip anyone off.

I don't know if it will be worth it to all of you, but it can be made for fairly cheap and still use high quality components. My PCBs will either be routed on the CNC mill, or etched, depends on if I have the mill up to snuff by the time everyone is ready to have these. If I etch them, they won't be show pieces, but you are going to install it in your dash anyhow, right? The boards will also not be varnished, you can do it yourself if you want it.

So, here is the BOM I came up with. If any of you notice an error in a part, let me know ASAP. Please note, the part labels are according to my layout, not the original remote, as I couldn't read them in the pics. Also, there will be no silkscreen, even though it is in the picture.

R1- 5.11K 1% 1/4 watt Metal Film, Mouser # 271-5.11K-RC $.09
R2- 2.49K 1% 1/4 watt Metal Film, Mouser # 271-2.49K-RC $.09
R3- 300 Ohm 5% 1/4 watt Carbon, Mouser # 291-300-RC $.10 (note, this is a current limiting resistor for the LED and 1% grade is not needed, nor was it used originally)
VR1- 10K Linear Pot w/ push on, push off switch, Mouser # 12MDSP5830 $4.36 (Bass Level Potentiometer)
VR2- 10K Linear Pot, Mouser # 317-2091F-10K $1.11 (Frequency adjust pot)
RJ11- RJ11-4 Jack, PCB mount, Mouser # 571-520250-2 $.59
Double sided PCB stock, 1oz copper, 6x6 Mouser # 590-550 $5.70 (note, I can cut approximately 6 boards from one of these, so the price will be much lower)
Knob for bass control, Mouser # 45KN050 $1.89

I did not include a LED in the price, nor a connector for one. The pads are on the PCB though, so it can be permanently soldered if you want one. I have oodles of round blue led's if that suits you, and you can have one, I also have a lot of rectangular led's in red, yellow, and green, but no round in those colors. Figure less than a buck for a LED of your color choice and I will order one with the stuff.

Here is a picture of the layout. Red traces are on the top of the board, green is on the bottom. The red traces obscure some of the green traces, but they are correct.




If any of you want to take a stab at this yourself, I will scale and seperate the layers and email you the negatives for self etching. The layout for the pots is not likely going to be correct until I have them in hand though, so don't get too ambitious.

If you want one of these, post up a head count. I will order the needed parts, no cash outlay on your part until they are done and ready to ship. I prefer not to get stuck with a bunch of bass cube remotes though, so if you are unsure, then don't tell me you're in.

Later,
Jason

i deffo want one!!

This is why I love the phorum!

You just joined and already you're offering up a huge favor doing this, at cost. It certainly fills a gap that many have complained about.

You're the man Jason!

x2^

many thanks over here as well.

I'm in PM sent, thanks man.

Thanks guys! You guys fill a huge gap with the phorum as well. I am glad I found this place. I will do whatever I can to help out.

Lets try to keep this thread toward the top for a week or so to get a head count. After my broken Tantrum 1200.1 I bought from Wakeup comes, I will order what parts I need for my 3 amps that need work, as well as the Bass Cube remotes. I will probably order a minimum of enough parts for 6 remotes, regardless of how many people have posted up.

I don't know what the time line will be on getting them done, I have a lot on my plate and am working ~80 hours a week right now at my normal job. I will test the first one on my bass cube, if everything is fine, I will send it to whoever was first in line. I have no need of it for right now, but once the Bronco stereo goes together, I need one too, so I am not just doing this for you guys

There is one part on the remote I am not 100% sure of, and that is if the Frequency pot is linear or audio taper. The volume pot is linear taper according to cross reference, but the freq. pot does not have markings as to it's taper. Most likely this means it is linear. If any of you want to do a meter check on a working remote, this is what you do. With the remote not connected to the cube, and not under power, set the pot at 1/2 of it's travel. Measure the resistance with a DMM from bottom most outside terminal (in my drawing, it will be the pot terminal that is closest to the edge of the board that the RJ11-4 connector is on) to the center terminal. If it is close to 5K resistance, it is linear taper. If it is a much lower resistance, than it is a logarithmic audio taper. If it is a much higher resistance, than either something is wrong, or it is a antilog reverse audio taper which would be extremely rare. Readings may not come out right with the pot still connected to the board. Readings definitely will not come out right if you use the opposite outer terminal to check resistance, as there are other resistors in parallel with that connection.

Anyhow, if no one has time to measure, it is not a big deal, I will verify that it is correctly working as designed above before I mail them out to anyone.

Later,
Jason

Center position of freq. pot measures 3.5 K.
Fully clockwise 4,57K.
Print on pot ; "10K 10
Measured as you suggested.
Hope this helps;
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!

Thanks, but upon looking further, it isn't going to work with it connected to the board. VR1, R1 and R2 are series in parallel with those terminals as well. Do you happen to know where the volume pot was set? If it were set at is maximum resistance, I should be able to calculate the resistance of the VR2 since the other 3 values would be known. Otherwise, I am just going to forge blindly ahead

Thanks,
Jason

Jason; I will remove the pot from the board, and post the measuring-results tomorrow.
This way, you'll be safe on the parts you need.
Nico.

Nico,

Thank you. I don't have any issue with testing my board once complete, though. A few extra bucks if the pot is wrong won't be a big deal to me. So, if you don't feel comfortable de-soldering the potentiometer, then don't worry about it.

Thanks again guys. BTW, I have plenty of responses via PM that I will easily be able to split up the pcb amongst you.

I drew the PCB in another new (to me) CAD software last night. Eagle CAD 5.0. Very popular with the guys milling PCBs. There is a plug in that generates the machine tool program. I got it redone, basically the same as the one drawn above, but I laid out the pots according to their mechanical drawing in the data sheets, so it should be spot on for milling the boards.

Later,
Jason

Jason; the 10K pot is LINEAR.
After desoldering, the reading in the center-setting is exactly 5K.
Also when turning from zero to full clockwise, the resistance goes up in a linear way.
It was no trouble at all; happy to contribute to your effords.
Good luck with building the remotes.
nico

Jason,

I'll like one if your willing to post it to Australia. If so, let me know how much the total cost would be ( inc shipping via USPS cheapest international postage). The only way I can pay from Oz is via paypal, all other means attract huge admin charges. I'll confrm once I hear from you.

Thanks in advance

As long as you are willing to pay shipping, I am willing to ship. I am still waiting on the broken Ta1200.1, but it should be here early this next week. I already have the numerical code generated for the PCB's. If life treats me well on my two days off, I will try to route one with the mill to get a head start.

I am going to compile a list of people who want one and post it to the thread shortly. Just because I have lots of PM's and replies here on the thread and need to keep track of you all in one place.

Later,
Jason

Okay, here is the list as of right now. If I missed you somehow, let me know and I will add you on.

pnyryd May 02, 2008 5:36 am – 3 Remotes
marko May 02, 2008 9:30 am – 1 Remote
Irongoats May 02, 2008 4:37 pm – 1 Remote
denim May 02, 2008 5:06 pm – 1 Remote
Wakeup May 09, 2008 8:48 am – 1 Remote
Chemhaz May 09, 2008 5:43 am – 1 Remote
mhyde71 Fri Jun 13, 2008 4:08 am - 1 Remote

Later,
Jason

I made the list..woo hoo.

Irongoats wrote:I made the list..woo hoo.

Me 2!!

oops, I'm way to late, but I can give you the original schematic of the basscube.

just send me your email adress and I will give you the schematic so you can help these people!

attention!: I will not put it on the net, I want to do that, but the person who gave me the schematics don't want that we spread the schematics!

MINI COOP wrote:oops, I'm way to late, but I can give you the original schematic of the basscube.

just send me your email adress and I will give you the schematic so you can help these people!

attention!: I will not put it on the net, I want to do that, but the person who gave me the schematics don't want that we spread the schematics!

Nope, not to late at all, I am still waiting on one amp to order parts. I will PM you with this as well, but my email is bigblockbuggy ( at ) sbcglobal ( dot) net.

Thanks for the offer, it will help to verify before I start.

Later,
Jason

Update-

Ordered $100 worth of parts tonight. Many thanks to Mini Coop for that schematic. I had missed one trace not visible in the photos. I only ordered one of the 10k switch pots. I need to make sure it will work for this application before I order 10 of them at $5 each! Also, the knobs are back ordered, so I did not order any. you guys may have to come up with a knob on your own. I will try to source some different ones.

I will let you know when I have a prototype built and tested. Could be a bit, I am working no stop. On 12Hr midnights right now through tuesday, then a day off then back for 12hr day shift. Yeah money :p

Later,
Jason

great work overthere!!

but I have my original basscube