Phoenix Gold Phorum

I was reading the ZX500 manual and I seen that PG recommended to ground directly to the battery and to help eliminate noise and to get the best possible ground possible. I used to ground to the passengers seat in my van and had good results but have since changed to a strait battery ground.

What do you do? any reasons?

chassis...it would be a long run back to the front to go to the battery

I ground to the chassis running a 0/1 AWG ground wire to the battery up front is for people that have more money than I do.

I run 1/0 front to back for both power and ground on my Taurus. If I was driving something that had a solid frame I wouldn't though. I just don't trust the ground path on a unibody car...

I've always felt that the manufacturers make those statements because they are trying to curb problems with DIY installs by guys that shouldn't be DIY. It's easier to understand the importance of a ground if you are being told to go to the battery. But that's assuming they read the manual at all.

You'd be amazed at some of the things people will try to ground to and the wire sizes they use as opposed to their power wire.

gkitching wrote:I've always felt that the manufacturers make those statements because they are trying to curb problems with DIY installs by guys that shouldn't be DIY. It's easier to understand the importance of a ground if you are being told to go to the battery. But that's assuming they read the manual at all.

You'd be amazed at some of the things people will try to ground to and the wire sizes they use as opposed to their power wire.

So what do you recommend? How often in your installs do you head the ground to the battery? Any of your customers request that? If I remember correctly , you own a shop -right?

Yes I own a shop. I've never had anyone request that I do that. If they did I would talk them out of it. In turn I would recommend, if neccessary, to upgrade the battery's ground.

I attended a Kicker training once were the trainer made this suggestion. I called him on it and he could give no legitimate reason for doing it. As a matter of fact, in all my years of going to these manufacturer's trainings, trainers have always warned against doing that. Something about having parralel wires with currant flowing in opposite directions causing noise.

Ultimately tho a good ground is of the most importance. Perferably a spot that goes direct to frame and even better would be a spot on the same frame rail as the battery is grounded to. Not some bracket that is tack welded to another welded body panel if you know what I mean. 'The Path of Least Resistance'. Prepping the surface and making good surface contact should be the focus.

I've done both. Right now I'm just using the chassis, but in my old Blazer, I ran 1/0 AWG back to the battery. 6 one way half dozen the other.

I grounded to the battery with my first real system. All the car stereo guys laughed at me.

gkitching wrote:Yes I own a shop. I've never had anyone request that I do that. If they did I would talk them out of it. In turn I would recommend, if neccessary, to upgrade the battery's ground.

I attended a Kicker training once were the trainer made this suggestion. I called him on it and he could give no legitimate reason for doing it. As a matter of fact, in all my years of going to these manufacturer's trainings, trainers have always warned against doing that. Something about having parralel wires with currant flowing in opposite directions causing noise.

Ultimately tho a good ground is of the most importance. Perferably a spot that goes direct to frame and even better would be a spot on the same frame rail as the battery is grounded to. Not some bracket that is tack welded to another welded body panel if you know what I mean. 'The Path of Least Resistance'. Prepping the surface and making good surface contact should be the focus.

Good info Thanks

nutxo wrote:I grounded to the battery with my first real system. All the car stereo guys laughed at me.

lol, well they are dumb....what do they think the cassies was doing...

in my car i have the battery in the trunk, so i have my ground block grounded directly to the bolt where the factory grounded the battery too. i also changed out the factory battery terminal and ran 1/0 to that bolt.

its about 3 feet of total wire.


also, all my audio components are grounded to that. (either through the directly attached ground distribution block, or through my tidd10 which is grounded to that same block


even my head unit and line driver up front are grounded in the trunk

Good point BF. Having all your audio devices grounded at the same point is an other way of helping keep those noises from entering the system.

You have a BMW right? We're doing one now and that's just too easy! I love cars with batteries in the back. Makes life alot easier.

gkitching wrote:Good point BF. Having all your audio devices grounded at the same point is an other way of helping keep those noises from entering the system.

You have a BMW right? We're doing one now and that's just too easy! I love cars with batteries in the back. Makes life alot easier.

yep, it was a breeze.

although in my younger days...i didnt know this...i tried to run cable from the 12volt access point in the front of the BMW...and then back again...after i had goten it to the back seats, i was in the trunk to decide on an amp mounting point...saw the battery and kicked my self.