Phoenix Gold Phorum

have 1/o gauge running from my battery(fused) to a stinger gel battery then my power (4gauge)goes from the stinger to my ti 500.4(for mids and highs), then another power(4 gauge) wire from the stinger to my ti1200.1(3 diamond audio 10s)= yesterday for the first time both amps went into protect, granted its just gotten very humid here in orlando in the last 2 days- so, i pull out my multimeter, i check the ground and power at 500.4(it reads 13.20-13.70-same reading off of the ti1200.1 power and ground, so then i proceed to unscrew the speaker wires from the terminals of the mids and highs, and the multimeter shows 4.1 ohms on all 2 sets of ti elites, then i unscrew the sub speaker wire from the terminals and the subs read 2.6-3.0(3 diamond d6 dual 4ohm subs, so then i check the battery voltage(12.7-13.1), anybody, any ideas?????? it only goes into protect once i go past half volume???? the ti 1200.1 is new, and it replaced my old ti1200.1(which i did hook up 2day to see if it was the amp, and same thing happened, then i thru in my rsd 1200.1, same result- i checked ground at my sony cdx c90, it was good, and the amps grounds, and they were good!????? help!!!!! SOS-thought i had this figured out, is it possible my volts are dropping too low?????!!

I am going to go out on a limb here and say that you likely have some serious wiring issues on the output side of the amplifiers. If I am not mistaken the only thing that should send the amps into protect mode is if the load is far to low or a dead short. The fact that it happens past half volume tells me that you have wiring insulation compromised, but possibly not arcing to ground until the output is up to higher levels.

In your last thread you described some seriously poor wiring, including taped, twisted splices, and lots of "extra" burned speaker wire IIRC. You need to pull all your wiring and find all of the problems. Insulation wears through over time, damp conditions makes it easier to arc. Don't stop and think you have it solved when you find the next bad spot. Pull it all before you destroy the amps. The protection circuit is fast, but it is not instantaneous. Every time it triggers protection, you are on the verge of doing damage, or already doing it.

Good Luck,
Jason

yeah idid pull all wiring, only the one sub wiring i found and fixed immediately; a couple of times its occured i was able to have my volt meter ready and handy, when it occured the volts went from 13.4 down to 12.50-thats why im thinking i may need to go ahead and get a h/o alt.- however if i turn the subs off , it never occurs, i may go ahead and replace my 4 gauge ground at the 1200.1, just to be safe, this system is only 4 months old, all wiring was new, except my old pg 10 gauge speaker wire, so i took all that out and replaced with new stinger 12 gauge( no breaks!; but i am gonna doublecheck the subs,-ohm load on the mids and highs only fluctuates between 3.9-4.2ohms, but i have put in my 2 rsdc dual 2ohms and the meter continues to fluctuate between 1.5-6ohms?? weird they are wired series/parr- they should stay closer with in 2ohm load!!?? but thanx 4 any and all help

Well 12.5V should be well with in the power supply specs for any automotive product. Most will run from about 10.5-15 Vdc, and I believe that is what most PG amps are rated for as well. It is entirely possible to have 12Vdc or better, and little or no current, and the current is what actually does the work. You would see this in the case of a high resistance ground or positive connection. Corroded or damaged terminals can cause it, as can poor connections from the wire to the connector.

You may know this, but, speaker impedance, which is where you get the 2 ohm or 4 ohm rating or whatever. Actually has very little to do with the speakers DC resistance. DC resistance is what you measure with a DVM, impedance is actually a function of inductance and resistance, and will change as the driver moves. DC resistance will actually flutter as the driver moves as well, so that could explain your floating readings.

You could have a sub that has a bad turn on the voice coil windings. If the varnish is compromised, it could be arcing to the nearest ground when at higher power. It would likely never show up with a DC resistance test, because it isn't a dead short. You could start disconnecting subs or VC's in DVC subs until it quits going into protect. When it does, you have found the bad VC.

The thing that mystifies me is that both amps are going into protect. Are you 100% certain that your grounds are good? Paint cleaned off, metal to metal contact? Same size ground as power wire? Is there any odd noise in the system bellow 50% volume, when the amps are working fine?

Good luck,
Jason

yeah, allpaint is off(sanded), where 4gauge wires are, 4 gauge for power from stinger battery, 4 gauge grounds, no noise at low or high volume, just finished doublechecking the rsdc series, par. wiring diagram, and thats right-the other day i switched out my ti 1200.1 for my backup , same result at half volume or higher, switched to my rsd 1200.1, same result- i have a cheap radio shack 20$ multimeter, maybe its not accurate- i tried tests where u unhook rcas, no speaker wire , on both amps, never once occured, but the sub wiring i snew-im gonna replace the ground at that amp
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How high are the gains on the line drivers? I believe the Ti's are only rated for 6Vrms input voltage. I wouldn't think that would shut it down, just make it clip, but who knows.

Going to bed now. Hope you work it out.

Later,
Jason

yeah they are only 1/4-1/6th of way up-so id say around almost 5volts, and when i had the rcas unhooked they never once got hot(the amps) so i may turn them down a notch-thanx for allur help i do appreciate it-ill let u know(i know it seems off the wall im thinking voltage is also part of the issue-when i got second battery i always read at 14.08(with ac on and cranked 50percent on h-u, now im at, as u know 13.2-+13.5-take care man-Christian

What comes to mind is the voltage in from the cars electrical system is dropping below the amps operation range and they shut down. That's what I come up with conserning both amps at the same time.

Take a reading at the amps while the stereo is playing at the volume you know they go into protect mode and see what the voltage is.

After I submitted that post, it came to mind....

Do you have a circuit breaker inline?

I had one that was about 14 years old that wouldn't fully trip as the volume increased, but would break contact. The lever wouldn't pop on the breaker, but it was in a sence doing just that. I replaced it and the problem was solved.

oh thanks man, but no circuit breaker, i think my line drivers may of been up a bit too high( 2 sld44s, cranked them back , mainly on the sub amp- when i checked the tis can only handle 6 volts input, where as before my rsd 1200.1 can take 9 volts input- i thinkits only happened on the 500.4 because the remote is inline with ti 1200.1; however 3 months ago when i my other ti 1200.1 in it never happened( yes i did switch that one back in and it happened as well, thats why i know its not the amp-but also i have a second gel battery that i added 2night; it helped to kick the volts up another(.25-.50 volts, so it hardley happened once i did that, but if i remember the ti 1200.1 is also an a/b amp- so i think im gonna go ahead and get a h/o alternator 2morrow( all wires are perfect!!!!, grounds etc.

You were probably just clipping the signal with gains too high on either the amp or the LD or both. You ought to try and turn all the gains down and see what happens before you have to spend $400+ on a HO alt.

thanx man, yeah sld 44 is only up 1/8 turn, like the min. increase on it for the ti 1200.1( the sld -44 can increase a wopping 11 volts????,and my head unit is the sony cdx c90(true 4volts out), but my second sld44 on 500.4 is almost 1/4 up and the gains are only a 1/8 notch increased- and - b4 i was always at 14.08 volts, mayb sometimes dip down to 13.9, which i know that means im gettn less wattage output, and thast whats driving me crazy!!!!! thanx for all repies