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Updating Big Three
Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 6:25 am
by dwnrodeo
Quick question for you guys. I'm going to be updating under hood power
this weekend and saw Errin's Proper Power How To and I have one question.
It states to run a cable from battery positive to alternator, and from battery
negative to alternator, and from battery to chassis. I plan on running 1/0
from positive of battery and from negative of battery to the back of the
car for the amps. Do I really need to update the battery negative to chassis
if I am running a cable from the negative of battery to the back of the car?
It seems kind of redundant to me and I wouldn't have any other openings on my
battery terminal.
Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 6:35 am
by gkitching
I would have to agree. If you're gonna run ground back to the amps then beefing up the battery ground to chassis would be redundant.
Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 6:43 am
by dwnrodeo
That's what I thought, but wanted to make sure. I just thought it'd be weird if I did the "Big 3" but only updated two things.
Thanks Greg.
Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 11:04 am
by Fatii
is it a advantage of taking ground from the battery to the amp? or old rusty car?
Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 1:10 pm
by Francious70
dwnrodeo wrote:That's what I thought, but wanted to make sure. I just thought it'd be weird if I did the "Big 3" but only updated two things.
Thanks Greg.
While it may seem redundant, it really does help the overall efficiency of your car's electrical system. And as we all know, get a few points of efficiency is worth a few cents of wire.
Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 4:16 pm
by Irongoats
A true Big-3 if you will calls for you too;
Battery to Alt (pos)
Battery to Block (neg)
Block to chassis (neg)
You can check this out at 12volt.com or many truck forums. This is the way I did it plus don't forget to upgrade your battery as well. Your negative should be as short as possible in regards to your amp.
Please remember to not disregard your original wires, its not set up to work that way. You run your positive right over your original pos to alt. I have a couple of pics under install forum titled; my little install part 1. This is the usual way of doing it so I went with it as well. Have fun.
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 3:57 am
by dwnrodeo
A true Big-3 if you will calls for you too;
Battery to Alt (pos)
Battery to Block (neg)
Block to chassis (neg)
Yes that's true, but wouldn't one wire from Alt (neg) to battery (neg) basically do the same thing as Battery to Block (neg) and Block to Chassis (neg)???
The only reason I haven't upgraded Battery to Chassis is because I used up all of the mounts on my battery terminal.
And don't worry, I kept all of the original wires when I upgraded.
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 7:35 am
by Irongoats
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 8:44 am
by gkitching
Assuming the factory knows what is required to run the vehicle (a safe assumption I think) Upgrading the wiring from the alt. to the battery and running both positive and negative from the battery to the rear, dwnrodeo has essentually isolated/optimized the current flow for his audio system and eliminated any outside influences from the vehicle side. Doing any more would not bennifit the audio system anymore. If he is looking to improve the vehicle's charging system for bigger spark at the plugs etc, then the other things would be advantagious.
Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 6:46 am
by Fatii
gkitching wrote:Assuming the factory knows what is required to run the vehicle (a safe assumption I think) Upgrading the wiring from the alt. to the battery and running both positive and negative from the battery to the rear, dwnrodeo has essentually isolated/optimized the current flow for his audio system and eliminated any outside influences from the vehicle side. Doing any more would not bennifit the audio system anymore. If he is looking to improve the vehicle's charging system for bigger spark at the plugs etc, then the other things would be advantagious.
oki.. =)
hm hope my new avatar is working
* working..
