When running power and ground from battery

[KHPower]

I am about to do the big three soon and I am making a checklist of stuff I need but I nned advice on a subject that I am not sure.

I have a basic battery which I will upgrade shortly that has the 2 mounting posts on top and 2 side mount posts. For the last couple of years I have been running my power and now my ground from the side mount s via a PG GM side mount posts and basicly sharing the space with the alt and ground of the charging system.

Now I have read mixed suggestions on where one should mount there power and ground. The other day at a car audio shop The fella there said not to run my powerr and ground on the side posts but rather used the top mounting posts and then I have read numerous accounts that the way I have my setup now (running off the side posts where the charging system charges the battery) is the cleanest and more power due to the amp or amps pulling the juice straight from the alternator current.

Could someone clear this up for me as to what is best and where I should mount all my power?

I will be running 1/0 gauge and its either I buy a crap load of PG ring terminals(the bolt kind) and expensive ot I save a some time and buy some PG top post mount terminals and run my power and grounds off off the top and also run my head unit and then I can use the expensive PG 1/o gauge ring terminals for my big 3

Thanks

[KHPower]

Also to add here are some pics of what I will be running or buying.

(6) 1/0 Gauge ring terminals
1 positive top mount
1 negative/ground mount

[KHPower]

oops forgot 2 pics

[stipud]

Top mount and side mount terminals are in parallel with eachother. There should be no difference, regardless of where things are mounted. Do whatever is easiest for you

[KHPower]

Good advice ! I think regardless that I will have to purchase everything listed in the pics

Now for 2 questions to add to this:

1.Because my power and ground run to a 5 farad capcitor that is equipped with 4 huge fuses can I just forget about fusing the Positive post terminal pictured above?

2. Like I metioned before the PG 1/0 gauge ring terminals are slightly expensive , even at a dealer cost but because I am doing the big three is it vital I go with quality like Phoenix Gold than saving around 20 bucks all together and going with some gold "Raptor" 1 gauge terminals?
The reason I ask is not just to save mney , I roll with a 88 gmc safari van and shes not as clean around the motor as she used to be Altghough I will thoroughly clean the grounding points on everything bfore I even think of Purchasing a alternator.

Thanks

[Bfowler]

one thing to keep in mind, is those 1/0 terminals are THICK. sometimes you cant fit a pair on a bolt, and might have to go with the thinner crimp style. also, the outside is not insulated, so you will want some heat shrink that can slide over them

[KHPower]

one thing to keep in mind, is those 1/0 terminals are THICK. sometimes you cant fit a pair on a bolt, and might have to go with the thinner crimp style. also, the outside is not insulated, so you will want some heat shrink that can slide over them

Thanks for the info , I am gonna have to check out under the hood of my van to see how much clearance I have to mount them. I guess I can also pick up a package crimp on ring termials but the only thing that sucks is I stink at crimping let alone a 1 /0 gauge terminal. I usually have to use a vice-grip to do those because my auto crimper only does 3 sizes.

Thanks guys

[bruther]

have you been able to purchase those new lines yet and if so where? I haven't found anyone that has them in stock.

[KHPower]

have you been able to purchase those new lines yet and if so where? I haven't found anyone that has them in stock.

Yes I have aquired them through my distributor. If you would like you can check them out here http://khpower.com/Install.aspx

there is a few more things that I still need to add though on khpower.com

[Rold Gold]

I would add a 150A breaker under the hood. But that's just me.

[KHPower]

I would add a 150A breaker under the hood. But that's just me.

That is a good idea , I have never , ever had a fuse blow under the hood using a 2000 rms amp . maybe its luck but I should look into a breaker at least.

[Rold Gold]

I like being able to cut power and work on the system. The breaker makes it really easy instead of having to pull a fuse.

[Bfowler]

^agreed, it is just so convenient to flip a switch to remove power to the entire system, not so much the protection. fuses are better then breakers for protection only

[HoseHead]

Either side or top. If your car uses the top post, use the side post for audio system or vice versa. Electrically they are identical and either will provide the same current. Plus you don't have to fiddle fuck trying to connect everything on one post. Plus plus when you need to provide or receive a boost, you won't mark up your very kewl B+ audio lug.

My car uses top post so I use the side for my audio. It's quick, clean and easy to remove the battery when needed.

A pic for your reference.

[Thumper88]

one thing to keep in mind, is those 1/0 terminals are THICK. sometimes you cant fit a pair on a bolt, and might have to go with the thinner crimp style. also, the outside is not insulated, so you will want some heat shrink that can slide over them

Thanks for the info , I am gonna have to check out under the hood of my van to see how much clearance I have to mount them. I guess I can also pick up a package crimp on ring termials but the only thing that sucks is I stink at crimping let alone a 1 /0 gauge terminal. I usually have to use a vice-grip to do those because my auto crimper only does 3 sizes.

Thanks guys

Yea, those type of terminals have no real world purpose IMO.

Here's an alternative...no crimping necessary...

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/document ... minals.mpg

Terminals
Solder Lugs
Flux
Heat Shrink

[Bfowler]

those are pretty badass! i might have to pick up a few