ZX-500/350 Power ratings and wiring opinions...
ZX-500/350 Power ratings and wiring opinions...
I will be running my Treo SSi's dual 4 ohm voicecoils in parallel on my new ZX-500 bridged, and was wondering what you guys think my sub will be seeing for real-world RMS power? I was thinking it may see an honest 700 RMS, am I off guys? I am running 4 gauge PG power/ground wire to my 1 FD cap, and from there I will have two, three foot 4 gauge runs to each amp. I was thinking of making the move to 2 gauge to the cap, and maybe buying a new 2 fd cap as my local shop has generics on sale for $59.95. Am I wasting money on one/both? Opinions?
I was also wondering what the actual 4 ohm, stereo RMS power is on my ZX-350. It feels nearly as heavy as my old ZX-450, and seems to have quite a bit more punch compared to one side of my old four channel. What do you suppose the actual power is, especially in relation to a ZX-450? Thanks guys, Mike
I was also wondering what the actual 4 ohm, stereo RMS power is on my ZX-350. It feels nearly as heavy as my old ZX-450, and seems to have quite a bit more punch compared to one side of my old four channel. What do you suppose the actual power is, especially in relation to a ZX-450? Thanks guys, Mike
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
I'd look into 2 of the caps if ya don't upgrade to a bigger alternator. Caps are kinda "robbing Peter to pay Paul" IMO. Maybe use the 1f for the 350 and a 2f for the 500......
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EDIT: Wow, that was stupid of me... you don't have it setup yet and here I am telling you to measure it...
If you want to know how much power your sub will be seeing... measure it!
Get out that DMM and the 60Hz tones. Make sure the tones are at the same baseline level as most of your music (0db?) if you intend to leave the settings as measured. If you just want to know what the amp is capable of, that doesn't really matter too much as you can measure with a loud test tone and then just up the gains later, by ear, for music.
I wouldn't doubt 700WRMS, but you should measure if you really want to know.
If you want to know how much power your sub will be seeing... measure it!
Get out that DMM and the 60Hz tones. Make sure the tones are at the same baseline level as most of your music (0db?) if you intend to leave the settings as measured. If you just want to know what the amp is capable of, that doesn't really matter too much as you can measure with a loud test tone and then just up the gains later, by ear, for music.
I wouldn't doubt 700WRMS, but you should measure if you really want to know.
SOLD: '91 PG 4Runner
Your ZX500 bridged at 2 ohms can produce a good 800 watts of dynamic power. On test tones, that headroom will disappear quite quickly, but you can still expect over 600, provided you've got ample power distribution. The ZX350 should easily make 125-150x2 at 4 ohms.
Instead of 2 gauge, I would recommend doing 0. It's practically the same cost, just as annoying to run, but you will never have to worry about doing it again. I went with 2 gauge in my car, but if I add any amps, I'm going to have to upgrade it to 0. Heck, I have never seen a 2 gauge that wasn't an oversized 4 gauge... you can usually fit 2 gauge directly into your amps inputs! 0 gauge terminals are also easier to come by, so it just gives you a nicer all-round setup.
Don't forget your big 3 as well! Upgrading your battery-alternator battery-frame grounds to 0 gauge, as well as alternator-battery to at least 4 gauge will yield a HUGE improvement in your stereo. I always laugh when I see fat 0 gauge installed, when the stock 12 gauge ground is still in place.
Instead of 2 gauge, I would recommend doing 0. It's practically the same cost, just as annoying to run, but you will never have to worry about doing it again. I went with 2 gauge in my car, but if I add any amps, I'm going to have to upgrade it to 0. Heck, I have never seen a 2 gauge that wasn't an oversized 4 gauge... you can usually fit 2 gauge directly into your amps inputs! 0 gauge terminals are also easier to come by, so it just gives you a nicer all-round setup.
Don't forget your big 3 as well! Upgrading your battery-alternator battery-frame grounds to 0 gauge, as well as alternator-battery to at least 4 gauge will yield a HUGE improvement in your stereo. I always laugh when I see fat 0 gauge installed, when the stock 12 gauge ground is still in place.

Actually, a DMM can't really tell you how much power your amp will produce, because it doesn't show you clipping. You could keep turning the amp up, and the DMM will keep showing higher numbers, well beyond the clipping point. You need an oscilloscope to truly test max power output, since it can show you the waveform.fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:EDIT: Wow, that was stupid of me... you don't have it setup yet and here I am telling you to measure it...
My ZX-350's, I remember having output sheets of 115-120 watts per channel @ 4 Ohms. I have never had a ZX500 so I can't help you their. The Ti series were rated for peak bridged power on the packing boxes and they often made 625 x 1. ZX suposedly have a little more head room than the Ti series. I am not sure what the peak power of the ZX500 is going to be with 2 Ohm bridged load, PG has a current limiter circuits for 2Ohms bridged loads, but it doesn't kick in for 100ms, so music peaks should get by.
Dave
91 GMC Syclone - PG Ti 500.4AL, Boston Acoustic Z6, Exile XT10
12 Legacy - Stock
91 GMC Syclone - PG Ti 500.4AL, Boston Acoustic Z6, Exile XT10
12 Legacy - Stock
You would think the mighty ZX-500 would have at least 600 watts RMS bridged into a two ohm load, right?
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
flogger11 wrote:You would think the mighty ZX-500 would have at least 600 watts RMS bridged into a two ohm load, right?
stipud wrote:Your ZX500 bridged at 2 ohms can produce a good 800 watts of dynamic power. On test tones, that headroom will disappear quite quickly, but you can still expect over 600, provided you've got ample power distribution.
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When running both the ZX500 and the Audiobahn 2200( 800 x2) I get similar output from the subs I have tested. The Audiobahn is putting out more power but the Phoenix Gold is not far behind , so I would guess its pretty close to 700 rms @ 2 ohms.
Heck I ran the PG ZX500 on my test bench on my Immoral @ .5 ohm load and it ran like a champ! and pushed the sub quite well , but I didnt run it too long because there is no reason to ruin such a beauty.
Heck I ran the PG ZX500 on my test bench on my Immoral @ .5 ohm load and it ran like a champ! and pushed the sub quite well , but I didnt run it too long because there is no reason to ruin such a beauty.
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How DARE you tell me I don't know what I'm talking about!!!!!stipud wrote:Actually, a DMM can't really tell you how much power your amp will produce, because it doesn't show you clipping. You could keep turning the amp up, and the DMM will keep showing higher numbers, well beyond the clipping point. You need an oscilloscope to truly test max power output, since it can show you the waveform.fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:EDIT: Wow, that was stupid of me... you don't have it setup yet and here I am telling you to measure it...

...
Oh, right! Thanks for setting me (us?) straight on that. I should have known that by now.

SOLD: '91 PG 4Runner