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help with more midbass.....Ti6

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 9:44 am
by shift_grind
hey everyone, just finished my install last night, here is my setup

Pioneer Avic D3 dvd/navi HU
Soundstream VGA500.4 (125x4)
Phoenix Gold Ti6 Elite system (front doors)
2 IDQ v.2 10" sub, sealed enclosure (125watts each)



first off, i will say i do NOT like big boomy bass that can be heard from down the street. im very impressed with the IDQ 10's on only 125 watts. they are not loud, but they are fast and have very good sq.

i really like the PG Ti6 components up front, but they dont get much in way of midbass, but they do sound great.

I hear that the RSD woofer gets great midbass, so my question is, would you recommend swapping out the woofers for this appearingly much cheaper one, or adding this as a second woofer, and running say 500hz lowpass. my Ti6's are in the door, and i would have to try and find a different location up front for the RSD6 if i added it.

i dont really like the idea of adding another amp ( i have more, i just want to keep the install to 1 amp)... so im kinda just wondering what your suggestions are


also side note, anyone have problems with the Ti XO? ive had to re-solder the inputs 2x now....seems like a nice xo, but some of the solder connections really suck

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 1:38 pm
by PassatBloke
Have you fully sealed and sound deadened the door? - How have you mounted them to the door? - There was a 500% increase in midbass in my speakers once I mounted them to the door with 18mm baffles and full deadened the doors (luckily mine are sealed doors anyway!)

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 3:13 pm
by SolacE
they seem to perform better in a small sealed off enclosure in the door.

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 3:27 pm
by stipud
x3... make an enclosure for them if you can, otherwise deaden the living crap out of your door. That will get your midbass all fixed up 8)

Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 5:31 pm
by soth
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 3DWatching

Image Dynamics IDQ 6.5's. Very hard to find these days. Very good midbass to say the least. I run them 65 to (400 I think) and they sound great. You do like others have suggested, make sure you deaden your doors.

If you are not wanting to purchase some midbass drivers then just deaden your doors big time like stipud and the others said.

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:36 am
by Bfowler
the ti-RSD 3 way idea isn't bad either.

if you went that route, i would recommend crossing the RSD midbasses around 150-200 and below, and let the ti's take over from that.

the major flaw in the RSD's is the 150-300 area is lacking. everything else on them is great.

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:24 pm
by shift_grind
my door is dynamatted, but like typical GM cars there are plenty of holes. i do not believe i can build an enclosure as space is tight when the window is all the way down. they mount to a plastic ring that mounts them at an angle so it clears the window. the door panel is dynamatted, but its no where near sealed, there are to many moving parts in the way to try to completely seal the door off.

are you guys just dynamating and sealing all the holes?

how deep is an 18mm baffel? i tried those once with some 6x9's and they had no bass after. it was a pretty small baffel, and the motor structure took up most of the space

i could like to build a kick panel, but with a ratcheting parking brake, it doesn't seem practical.

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:06 pm
by soth
Yeah, if you have really big holes. Here is a descent video from Image Dynamics showing you a basic idea of how to deaden a door.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UecoJnG5 ... re=related

Kevin

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:14 pm
by AVICJR
Here is my install. I also had big holes in my doors, but I fixed that prob.

http://phoenixphorum.com/exile-xtec-6-5 ... t1911.html

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:40 am
by PassatBloke
Really easy way to seal your doors here, and cheap.

1. Take some masking tape and lay it over the hole to be sealed

2. Mix up some resin and cut some CSM up

3. Lay the mat and resin over the masking tape

4. Leave to cure - pop it out - trim it - screw to door with self tappers, build up the layers of FG with either mat of P40 filler.

5. Whack a layer of deadening over it.

6. Voila - Improved midbass FTW

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:57 am
by joyride
Yeah, you really need to make a sealed enclosure for them. Deadening alone wont do it in a GM vehicle. I removed the stock plastic mounting ring, and just fiberglassed over the rear end of it (it went back about 2-3").

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 4:25 pm
by shift_grind
so how much space do the Ti6's need ideally? if i just seal the rear of the plastic ring (about 2-3" deep like joyride said) will that give me enough airspace? 6" diamter, 3" deep cylinder enclosure is only .05 cu ft....is that enough? well, probably .035 if you subtract woofer displacement.

i will take the doors off and further deaden them, and try to creat an enclosure for them if i can, space willing (window puts a hamper on things)

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:17 am
by PassatBloke
Use the door as an enclosure matey, just seal up the holes in the inner skin of the door, they will perforn 1000% better

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:16 am
by stipud
shift_grind wrote:so how much space do the Ti6's need ideally? if i just seal the rear of the plastic ring (about 2-3" deep like joyride said) will that give me enough airspace? 6" diamter, 3" deep cylinder enclosure is only .05 cu ft....is that enough? well, probably .035 if you subtract woofer displacement.

i will take the doors off and further deaden them, and try to creat an enclosure for them if i can, space willing (window puts a hamper on things)
I have a similar issue with my Elites. I plan on gluing popsicle sticks to the back of the mounting rig, and stretching some fleece over, so I can fiberglass a very small addition on to the enclosure. Just enough that I can still fit it in the doors.