Looking at a new system.... need some advice.

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 7:20 am

Hey Guys,

Been surfing the forum, and reading a lot of good things about the new lines. I have some Octane R equipment now and was never super impressed with it. I found the componants had no midbass, and treble somewhat sharp. The amp seemed to put out OK power though, but I only had an 8" sub in a stealth box.

Anyways, how does the new RSD stuff stack up to my older OctaneR gear? I am looking at getting:

2 x 12" RSDC Subs
Set of RSD 6" Componants (fronts)
Set of RSD 5x7" Coax (rears)
300.4 or 500.4 RSD amp for Door Speakers
2 x 600.1 RSD Amp for subs

I am curious as to which Amp(s) you guys would recommend for the door speakers listed. I think the 300.4 is matched well, and the 500.4 may be overkill. As for the subs, I was thinking that a 600.1 for each would be good, but do you think I would be better to try a 1200.1 to power both?

Thanks for your input!
John

Post by **stipud** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 7:26 am

What amps do you have right now? Your Octane-R amps may be sufficient as well...

I would probably go with an RSD1200.1 instead of two RSD600.1's, just because it's smaller.

The RSDs have quite a bit of kick, but ideally you should seal your door and deaden it to get the most out of them.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 7:45 am

My RSD 6.5 comps will KILL my Octane ZR 6.5's any day of the week. I found
the same thing with my Octane's as you have. No midbass, tweeters too harsh.
The RSD's have plenty of midbass, and the tweeters are not as harsh.

I agree with Stipud and go with the 1200.1, it will be smaller and cheaper.

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 7:55 am

Great! I dont mind the space too much. It will all be in a fiberglass enclosure, so a third amp may not be too bad.

Stupid question - Is there any performance reason to go with 2 600.1 amps over the 1200.1? Of course other than the fact they can be tuned differently etc.

Nice to hear that the RSD kills the Octanes. The Octanes pretty much almost made me swear off PG. I know you get what you pay for, but c'mon! The amp I have now, I forget the model number. However, I would rather spend a bit more and have the amps match etc since they will be on display at car shows etc

-John

Post by **stipud** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:49 am

Slippin3 wrote:Stupid question - Is there any performance reason to go with 2 600.1 amps over the 1200.1? Of course other than the fact they can be tuned differently etc.

Nope, if anything it will make your life a bit easier. Just make sure to get the D2 woofers, so that you can wire both of them to a mono 2 ohm load.

A 500.4 matches the 1200.1's size as well, and the money you save buying the 1200 over two 600's can easily cover the difference between the 300.4 and 500.4. You will love getting more power to your components, those RSDs will soak it up!

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 1:42 pm

stipud wrote:Nope, if anything it will make your life a bit easier. Just make sure to get the D2 woofers, so that you can wire both of them to a mono 2 ohm load.

A 500.4 matches the 1200.1's size as well, and the money you save buying the 1200 over two 600's can easily cover the difference between the 300.4 and 500.4. You will love getting more power to your components, those RSDs will soak it up!

Its been a while since I had to wire in parallel or series.

Is the 500.4 not overkill for those speakers? The coax's dont take much power spec wise, nor do the RSDs.... are they that underated?

Thanks
John

PS - PG's documentation is hazy with the min/peak ratings. If they are RMS or Peak etc.

Post by **stipud** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 1:51 pm

The ratings on the website are weird... they rate it min-max RMS wattage... so anywhere from 5-120w for most speakers. Just pay attention to the "peak RMS" rating they have, this is what you want. Even then, you can go well beyond that rating, as long as you're playing music and not test tones (at that point they would exceed their thermal capacity after awhile).

The RSD components will easily handle 150-200 watts if you want, you just need to keep the power clean and unclipped. Keep your bass boost off, and set your gains properly, and you will never have an issue...

http://phoenixphorum.com/gain-setting-w ... vt280.html

An RSD500.4 would be no problemo on any RSD speakers. I'd reckon even the little 3.5's could handle it, if you went a bit easier on the gains.

seandiguer · Post by **seandiguer** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:37 pm

Those rsdc 12's are BAD ASS. If you want a third amp, i personally would get 2 - 1200.1's and go with the 500.4
And if you can.. components in the back instead of the 5 x 7 coax. Any way you look at it, its gunna sound GOOD.

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 5:07 pm

yeah i agree, i run 2 rsdc10's off of 2 seperate 1200.1s, just make sure if u do that, then make seperate chambers for each sub; u can see my audi in the install section

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 6:01 pm

See, I know subs are underrated..... but using a 1200.1 for each sub is twice the recommended. Isnt that a little extreme? I mean, I am not an SPL junkie, so is it worth the time and $$? Will the gains be that much better?

Thanks
John

seandiguer · Post by **seandiguer** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 6:37 pm

You dont really NEED it, buts its cool as shit.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 9:56 pm

The RSdC will take a 1200.1 without problems if you make sure you just don't make the amp going into clipping.

That doesn't mean you SHOULD be using a 1200.1 to each sub woofer. I think you'd be more than happy with a single 1200.1.

Post by **stipud** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:37 am

Let's not forget how much power two 1200.1's can draw as well... you'll need a terribly strong charging system to be able to handle them.

Even a 500.4 and 1200.1 you should do the big 3...
- upgrade your alternator-battery power wire to 4 to 0 gauge
- upgrade your battery-frame ground wire to 0 gauge
- run a ground from the battery to engine or alternator in 4 to 0 gauge

Then you will need a 0 gauge feed running to the back, split to 4 gauge at a fused distribution block for your amps. You can run individual 4 gauge grounds, or run them into an unfused distribution block and run a single 0 gauge ground.

With this setup, you would probably be okay on your stock alternator, as long as it is a reasonably new car. Now with a second 1200.1, you'll be adding another 80 amps of draw to the system. In this case your power wiring would be sufficient, but you would definitely need a new battery and alternator to keep the power from sagging with that many amps.

If you're not a basshead, I wouldn't go with the second 1200.1 myself. I run a single RSDC on 250 watts, and it sounds wonderful. With 600 watts apiece, they will sound fantastic. Or, you can always run a single sub at 1200 watts as well. You will love the trunk space that running a single sub will save you

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 9:27 am

Thanks pud! The car is a 2004 Mazda3 and has a Redtop in it already. The wiring will all be upgraded

I think a 1200.1 and 2 RSDc's are in order!

-John

Post by **stipud** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 9:42 am

If your Mazda 3 is the hatch version, that is going to be absolutely brutal.

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:10 am

Its the hatch! Brutal? Brutal Good, or Brutal bad? lol.....

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:36 am

itll still work great ( 2 subs) on one 1200.1, i just like having more power, i like having lots of headroom, but stipud is right, if i play around and change subs out for a single rsd1200.1 to see 2 subs at 2ohms, it still sounds great- and is alot power-definetly do the big 3, and if u can , get a second gel battery, i have a redtop , and 2 gel batteries in the audi-one is for the mid/highs amp, and the other one is devoted to the 2 rsd amps-im 38 and losing my hearing-go figure; seriously i listen usually at 1/4 volume on head unit, and its crystal clear, feel the subs, and the rsdc sound better to me then my other set of subs , which are diamond audio d6s

Fatii · Post by **Fatii** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:06 am

singel rsdc, 1200.1 makes the chair tickle my ass

(think my right ear no good no moore)

Stipud.
dont the consumer (speaker) make the rules of the current need?
correct me if i´m wrong..

Post by **stipud** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 6:36 am

Fatii wrote:Stipud.
dont the consumer (speaker) make the rules of the current need?
correct me if i´m wrong..

Speakers draw current from the amplifier, but the amplifier draws current from the car. It's very important to make sure you can give the right amount of power for your amps, otherwise they will be damaged.

Fatii · Post by **Fatii** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:06 pm

stipud wrote:
Fatii wrote:Stipud.
dont the consumer (speaker) make the rules of the current need?
correct me if i´m wrong..
Speakers draw current from the amplifier, but the amplifier draws current from the car. It's very important to make sure you can give the right amount of power for your amps, otherwise they will be damaged.

kk..=)

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 8:15 pm

whenever i see ur avatar i think of TIESTO, TIESTO( live in coppenhagen last november, best dvd ever!!!!(elements of life tour