OMG! OMG! OMG!OMG! OMG! OMG! OMG!
OMG! OMG! OMG!OMG! OMG! OMG! OMG!
All I have to say, pardon my french, is HOLY FUCK!!! I just went with a ZX-450 ACTIVE on my Polk SR6500's and they sound UNBELIEVABLE!!! I had chills run up and down my spine and tears in my eyes they sounded sooooo good, that much of a difference! And this is without any time delay or eq'ing! My soundstage is HUGE, DEEP and WIDE! Drums sound FAT! OMG, why oh why every sq nut doesnt do this, I have no idea...
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
I am crossing my subs at 63hz w/ a 24db rolloff, the band pass on my mids~ crossed with the lows at 63HZ 24db, up top 3.2Khz 12 db roll off (stock is 3k, 12 db roll off). I am crossing my tweets a touch higher than factory, 5k w/ a 12 db roll off (stock is 4.5k w/ 18db roll off). These settings really allow me to hammer on my drivers! I am telling you, no joke, the difference is NIGHT AND DAY in terms of soundstage and depth! I cant wait for my RSDc's and Imprint!
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
i hear yeah- i recently put my tweet elites on the front of my ti500.4, then the mids on the rear of the 500.4( bandpass), pushed the mulitplier in by 10 for the tweets, thats how i found i had a 6.5 elite mid where the cone was seperating from the rubber surround-i know its amazing how much the xovers seem to diminish the output!!!! now, its like my mids came alive, i seem to be truning my lpl-44 down more, to help the subs blend in better
Ya, I played w/ the cross lower, it dirtied things up waaaay too much. Polk crosses them stock at 4.5k w/ 18 db, so im not too far off w/ 5k, 12db. Its funny, after playing w/ crossover points/slopes for a couple hours, I wound up so close to the stock points it is uncanny!ELmx479 wrote:Wow, 5K is pretty hight for the tweeters. I have mine at 3.2K at 24db. You could most likely run yours lower if you cross them at 24db.
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
Thats kinda what i was thinking...thedeal7235 wrote:im talking about active with the internal xovers works too tweets mulitply by 10, then the mids at bandpass- i believe this still rolls them off at 24db
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
Sure Christian. IDQ is Image Dynamics, they are mostly popular for their excellent SQ speakers. Keep in mind for more money there are other speakers that are better, but for the price they are really good.thedeal7235 wrote:soth, i keep hearing alot of you guys saying u use idq, i know nothing of this company, can you give me some info, or a site to checkout-thanx Christian
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/products.php
http://www.iasca.com/forums/40.aspx
ID is known for the sound stage and quality especially with their HLCD's. The CD-2 comps are amazing, but 1000 bucks a set is pretty steep though. I've got the CD1's and I like them and they didn't break me

Anyway, I would like to see a review comparing the new IDQ with the RSD'c. The pro's and con's with each. The RSD'c are much cheaper than the IDQ v3's. See, i'm not wanting heavy bass, just really accurate notes that the sub can produce.
Hope those links help you.
Head Unit: Eclipse CD5000
Amp1: Ti 500.4
Amp2: MPS2500
Crossover: Audiocontrol 6xs
High/Mids: ID CD1-E v1 Horns
Midbass: IDQ 6.5 v2
Subs: IDQ 12 v1
EQ: PG EQ215-X
Amp1: Ti 500.4
Amp2: MPS2500
Crossover: Audiocontrol 6xs
High/Mids: ID CD1-E v1 Horns
Midbass: IDQ 6.5 v2
Subs: IDQ 12 v1
EQ: PG EQ215-X
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:34 pm
- Location: PG FanBoy in Green Mtn Vermont
- Contact:
I have the 2-ohm chamelions front stage and rear fill.. and like them a bunch.. only thing is the cones can come dirty or get dirty after a while.. but easy to clean out. If you use as componants I dont believe that is so much an iddues as the tweet isnt secured in the center as with the co-ax setup. Just wish I could get a lil more mid bass.. Thinking if I had some custom baffles.. that wouold do the trick. and perhaps some deadner on the rig.
PAST WORK/S HERE::
https://www.facebook.com/KhameleonKoatings/photos_albums
https://www.facebook.com/KhameleonKoatings/photos_albums
Nice another convert to active!!
SSAudio.com ~ Dcon / Icon / Xcon / Zcon ~
Caraudio-forum.com
HomeAudioForum.net
PG Stash: Xenon 1200.1 & 200.4, Bass Cube, RCA's
Caraudio-forum.com
HomeAudioForum.net
PG Stash: Xenon 1200.1 & 200.4, Bass Cube, RCA's
i've always been active since i can remember, just can't beat it
you know when you have got it right as the music becomes emmotional, that's what it's all about!

Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
Here here! Emotional, great description! Its funny, all these years messing w/ all the diff seps I have owned (nak/ads/pg/polk/infinity beta,etc), the sound I have been looking for was there all along, just being wrecked by the stock passive crossover networks! Crossing my seps active has doubled my soundstage width and depth and now my SR's paint a picture when listening to music, no joke, I can now "see" the band! Drums are so much more alive, vocals are now very solid and the freq response is so much flatter. Active or nothing baby!marko wrote:i've always been active since i can remember, just can't beat ityou know when you have got it right as the music becomes emmotional, that's what it's all about!
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
I have started with passive (that comes with component speakers), then went active for a good number of years. Yea I agree when I first switched to active, the improvement was extremely noticeable. Same feeling with flogger why the hell didn't I do that much earlier.
1-2 years down the road, I got everything dialled in and there was nothing much in the crossover point, slope and level matching that were changed because the tuning is more or less there for my liking. Occasionally there were some equipment swapping for a "sound" change, but nothing major on tuning really.
Then suddenly one day an idea came. Since the crossover point and slope were basically fixed, why would I need the additional amp channels ? I would have built a passive myself with the known suitable xover points for my car and save 4 channels of amplification (am running 3 way front), 2 pairs of RCAs and a fair amount of speaker cables. Not to mention the space saving in the car and less strain on electrical. But those were just part of the expected benefits.
The surprise was on switching to the DIY passive I made myself, I was in love all over again ! Why didn't I do it earlier I thought. The same feeling when I switch from stock passive to active a few years ago. Stock passive is just not suitable for every car. And I agree with stipud that the quality of component plays a part in passive crossover.
However, to tune a passive is much harder than tuning active systems. While it is just a few dials away to change xover points/slope/gain for active, a passive needs physical change of components to change the tuning points. That is the major turn off for running passive system. So passive system is not for everybody really. It takes much more time and effort to get the sound right compared to active. But one day when anyone is bored and need to spice things up a little, passive would give you some surprises I bet

1-2 years down the road, I got everything dialled in and there was nothing much in the crossover point, slope and level matching that were changed because the tuning is more or less there for my liking. Occasionally there were some equipment swapping for a "sound" change, but nothing major on tuning really.
Then suddenly one day an idea came. Since the crossover point and slope were basically fixed, why would I need the additional amp channels ? I would have built a passive myself with the known suitable xover points for my car and save 4 channels of amplification (am running 3 way front), 2 pairs of RCAs and a fair amount of speaker cables. Not to mention the space saving in the car and less strain on electrical. But those were just part of the expected benefits.
The surprise was on switching to the DIY passive I made myself, I was in love all over again ! Why didn't I do it earlier I thought. The same feeling when I switch from stock passive to active a few years ago. Stock passive is just not suitable for every car. And I agree with stipud that the quality of component plays a part in passive crossover.
However, to tune a passive is much harder than tuning active systems. While it is just a few dials away to change xover points/slope/gain for active, a passive needs physical change of components to change the tuning points. That is the major turn off for running passive system. So passive system is not for everybody really. It takes much more time and effort to get the sound right compared to active. But one day when anyone is bored and need to spice things up a little, passive would give you some surprises I bet

