how much power u got on ur front stage??

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STROKD
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1 Offroad

Post by STROKD »

Ill be using 150x2 to the tweets and 150 x 2 to the mids... 2 ZX600Tis. :lol:

I hope I dont blow the speakers. :shock:
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Re: 1 Offroad

Post by gkitching »

STROKD wrote:Ill be using 150x2 to the tweets and 150 x 2 to the mids... 2 ZX600Tis. :lol:
I get the impression you like POWER! :P
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Re: 1 Offroad

Post by STROKD »

gkitching wrote:
STROKD wrote:Ill be using 150x2 to the tweets and 150 x 2 to the mids... 2 ZX600Tis. :lol:
I get the impression you like POWER! :P
Little bit! But the thing is, I have the OffRoads to use, and I don't want just one in the car, so I figured I might as well use as much of the power as I can. I might run the other one bi-amped to the backs as well. :D
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thedeal7235
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Post by thedeal7235 »

ok, soo ive been playn this afternoon, how about wiring the 2 front 6.5 together, then bridged on front of the 500.4, then wire the 2 rear 6.5 together and bridge to the rear??? wouldnt that be 2ohm stereo(kinda in theory), hasnt gotten hot once this way
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Post by STROKD »

thedeal7235 wrote:ok, soo ive been playn this afternoon, how about wiring the 2 front 6.5 together, then bridged on front of the 500.4, then wire the 2 rear 6.5 together and bridge to the rear??? wouldnt that be 2ohm stereo(kinda in theory), hasnt gotten hot once this way
yes but you are killing your imaging. You have a mono signal to the front and one to the backs... best way I can think of is to run the fronts bi amped (2 channels off the 500.4 and the two channel 600.2 actively to the woofers), then run the other 2 channels to the 500.4 rears to the backs with a passive crossover... if the backs are co-ax, then disregard the passive crossover.
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thedeal7235
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Post by thedeal7235 »

yeah im gonna wire the lefts back 2gether, then bridge to front , wire the rights back 2gether and bridge to the rear(it gets hot but pg just said safe, so its fan time
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Post by stipud »

What? Two 4 ohm 6.5's in parallel is 2 ohms. 2 ohms bridged is 1 ohm stereo. The amp will handle it, but it's not ideal by any means.

I like STROKD's idea. Use the 500.4 to power your tweets and rear speakers. Then use the 600.2 to power your front mids. If that's really not enough, consider bridging the 500.4 to your fronts PASSIVELY, and power the rears on the 600.2.
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thedeal7235
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Post by thedeal7235 »

before i went active i did bridge the fronts passively, and the output was very similiar to them active @ 75watts rms, hard to believe but true
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Post by STROKD »

thedeal7235 wrote:before i went active i did bridge the fronts passively, and the output was very similiar to them active @ 75watts rms, hard to believe but true
150 x 2 on front woofers, 75 x 2 to tweeters, 75 x 2 to rear fill... if thats not enough, add another set of speakers up front and another amp. :lol:
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Post by mhyde71 »

I use the chamelions front and rear... have two MS275's powering them
140X2 (front and rear 240 each)... seem to blend okay with the subs being driven by MS2250 (517 x 2) w/ bass CUBE
everything is wired for 2 - ohm stereo in the car passive up front, active for subs (sub outs crossed at 50/80/125 depending and fronts crossed at 80 or 125 ) actually recently thinking about getting vanity plate for car that reads "2-OHM" .. be neat I guess.

I like, BUT would be and anxious to get in the speaker tweakers from secondskin or damplierpro from them... need to do something as the rears dont show up on the radar so much and just think that with dampening and/or with some kind of custom enclosure for the chamelions I would get a much better response. Great now, but always room for improvement...ya know

OH and something else.. I made Doctors appointment last week to get ears cleaned.. havent had for while and all that.. so unbelievable.. if you want to add some response to your listening pleasure?? - get the ears cleaned out .. WOW what a difference... I hear a much better response with the highs/tweets with all the potatoes cleaned out of the ears... I suggest it to anyone that hasnt for a while..to do so.. I wanted to see if it would make a difference and it sure did.. had a bunch of wax in there... perhaps too much info for some, but the truth...
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thedeal7235
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Post by thedeal7235 »

ok heres went i went with
-after many hours and different configurations, granted i luvd the 2 sets of ti mids wired in parrell and bridged to the 500.4 the best( it was getting too hot, and want no damage to the amp
and i would like to tell all thanks for your input, and suggestions, it definetly got me thinking, espicially the tweets to the 500.4, with rear6.5s(which would of given me 75 by4), along with the mids @ the 600.2, however, I decided to keep the 2 sets of 6.5s wired in parrell( i never spell that right), and i tried them on the 600.2 first, just a tad too much, and it sacrificed some clarity that way(which i believe was showing the 600.2 300 by 2@ 2ohms, so i wired the tweets back to the 600.2(150by2), and then went ahead and ran the mids only to the front channells of the 500.4, thus , per the specs 125 by 2 @ 2ohms, but ive seen some birth sheets claim on some ti 500.4s that it will run 150 by4@2 ohm loads?! if that is true, i may possibly add a set of 5.25s to the front, and then run them off the rear channel of the 500.4, or swap the wiring for the rear 6.5s to be on the rear channells, and wire in the 5.25s with the front 6.5s-
im tired and ill talk 2 u guys 2morrow-hurricane ike is probably 72 hours from here-oh joy
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Post by weng »

running 3 way front with passive crossover. tried ms275, ms2125 and ended up with a ms2250. so it is 500w for my front stage. bridging a ms275 for my sub about 200w
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Post by dako »

I run a Tantrum 300.2 to a set of Alpine Type-R comps. It's a decent setup while I look for something with a bit more punch and audiophile quality.
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Post by mhyde71 »

dako wrote:I run a Tantrum 300.2 to a set of Alpine Type-R comps. It's a decent setup while I look for something with a bit more punch and audiophile quality.
i have some ID gear (componants) for sale.. CXS Stuff and XS Stuff 2-ohm.. if you want.. PM if interested... holla
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Post by dako »

PM sent!
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Post by naughty »

gonna now be running an x200.4 for my front stage more or less in a mixture of active and passive - 200 watts apiece is going to go to the 6,5" midbass drivers and the remaining two channels of 200 watts each is going to connect to a passive crosover that will split the signal to a 3" midrange and tweeter - that should sort out my front stage pretty nicely IMHO
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Post by thedeal7235 »

I AGREE! :lol:
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Post by bretti_kivi »

I'm actually thinking about this... what's the real point of 150W a side? Probably go with a 180.2 (so that's around 55W) for Midbass (tho' they're also 8Ohm!), if I get mids they'll have around 30W each and the tweets will get something similar.
Sub is going to get 500W. @ 4 :D

I'll listen and then go searching for more power if I need it; I created enough space at the weekend that I can fit at least another 100.2 and a 300.4 in if I need it :twisted:

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Post by flogger11 »

gkitching wrote:Tweeters getting 110w/chnl
Mids getting 110w/chnl
Midbass getting 400w/chnl

Total 620w/chnl up front :P
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Post by shaheen »

3 way off a passive,

240rms left (MS275) 240rms Right (Ms275)

500rms on sub (DD9112 Cluster Mag) seems to be fine , x-over beng done by A406 and EQ TiDEQ


Thinking when and if I get back to go Ms275 on Left and right mid tweeter and one MS275 per midbass.
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Post by flogger11 »

thedeal7235 wrote:before i went active i did bridge the fronts passively, and the output was very similiar to them active @ 75watts rms, hard to believe but true
I believe it, I went active two months or so ago on my Polk SR6500's and OMG, what a diff!!!! Bigger soundstage, louder, cleaner, crisper, everything was an improvement over passive! BTW, anybody looking at a pair of high-end seperates MUST audition a pair of SR's! Set up properly, they are AMAZING!!!
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Post by flogger11 »

Oh ya, the original thread! I am running a ZX-450 active on my Polks, so 75 watts by 4 on the front end. There is sooo much power it brings everything alive, it is truly amazing! I am also bypassing the amps internal crossovers in favor of my Alpine CDA-9887's on board ones, I just prefer the control at the HU... including time delay on my Polks set up individually (L-R tweets and L-R mids)! SWEEET!
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Post by csperl1 »

MS2250TA on Legatia L1's-yeah I know little overkill but they are 8 ohm
MS2250TA on Legatia L6's
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Post by gridracer »

mhyde71 wrote: passive up front, active for subs (sub outs crossed at 50/80/125 depending and fronts crossed at 80 or 125 ) actu
Just curious why you wouldn't run the fronts active it would sound better.
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Post by mhyde71 »

gridracer wrote:
mhyde71 wrote: passive up front, active for subs (sub outs crossed at 50/80/125 depending and fronts crossed at 80 or 125 ) actu
Just curious why you wouldn't run the fronts active it would sound better.
well that's kinda a loaded question or one that is difficult to answer.. as I am really not sure to be honest.. I think they are active/passive if it can be??? I have the HU X'ed at 80 or 125 for the HPF (high pass filter).. but also use the passive xovers (that came with the ID Gear)... so does that make me passsive or active, or is that "passactive" - i dunnno I kinda covered this question in a recent past thread but didnt get a clear answer I dont think.. or i forgot to go back and look... :oops: :o :D

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