how much power u got on ur front stage??
1 Offroad
Ill be using 150x2 to the tweets and 150 x 2 to the mids... 2 ZX600Tis.
I hope I dont blow the speakers.
I hope I dont blow the speakers.
FAS#73 & AX406A#73/Frank'd EQ230
BNIB MS2250 w/ shroud, 2 MS2250TAs, MS275, MQ430
2 Ti1200.1s, 2 ZX475Tis, Ti500.4, DD10, 6 Powercores
5 Orion 2100, 1 250 - HCCA Digital Ref. v2
6 Alpine 3558 Class A's - for sale
Alpine DigiMax system complete for sale
BNIB MS2250 w/ shroud, 2 MS2250TAs, MS275, MQ430
2 Ti1200.1s, 2 ZX475Tis, Ti500.4, DD10, 6 Powercores
5 Orion 2100, 1 250 - HCCA Digital Ref. v2
6 Alpine 3558 Class A's - for sale
Alpine DigiMax system complete for sale
Re: 1 Offroad
I get the impression you like POWER!STROKD wrote:Ill be using 150x2 to the tweets and 150 x 2 to the mids... 2 ZX600Tis.
Greg Kitching
Re: 1 Offroad
Little bit! But the thing is, I have the OffRoads to use, and I don't want just one in the car, so I figured I might as well use as much of the power as I can. I might run the other one bi-amped to the backs as well.gkitching wrote:I get the impression you like POWER!STROKD wrote:Ill be using 150x2 to the tweets and 150 x 2 to the mids... 2 ZX600Tis.
FAS#73 & AX406A#73/Frank'd EQ230
BNIB MS2250 w/ shroud, 2 MS2250TAs, MS275, MQ430
2 Ti1200.1s, 2 ZX475Tis, Ti500.4, DD10, 6 Powercores
5 Orion 2100, 1 250 - HCCA Digital Ref. v2
6 Alpine 3558 Class A's - for sale
Alpine DigiMax system complete for sale
BNIB MS2250 w/ shroud, 2 MS2250TAs, MS275, MQ430
2 Ti1200.1s, 2 ZX475Tis, Ti500.4, DD10, 6 Powercores
5 Orion 2100, 1 250 - HCCA Digital Ref. v2
6 Alpine 3558 Class A's - for sale
Alpine DigiMax system complete for sale
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
ok, soo ive been playn this afternoon, how about wiring the 2 front 6.5 together, then bridged on front of the 500.4, then wire the 2 rear 6.5 together and bridge to the rear??? wouldnt that be 2ohm stereo(kinda in theory), hasnt gotten hot once this way
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
yes but you are killing your imaging. You have a mono signal to the front and one to the backs... best way I can think of is to run the fronts bi amped (2 channels off the 500.4 and the two channel 600.2 actively to the woofers), then run the other 2 channels to the 500.4 rears to the backs with a passive crossover... if the backs are co-ax, then disregard the passive crossover.thedeal7235 wrote:ok, soo ive been playn this afternoon, how about wiring the 2 front 6.5 together, then bridged on front of the 500.4, then wire the 2 rear 6.5 together and bridge to the rear??? wouldnt that be 2ohm stereo(kinda in theory), hasnt gotten hot once this way
FAS#73 & AX406A#73/Frank'd EQ230
BNIB MS2250 w/ shroud, 2 MS2250TAs, MS275, MQ430
2 Ti1200.1s, 2 ZX475Tis, Ti500.4, DD10, 6 Powercores
5 Orion 2100, 1 250 - HCCA Digital Ref. v2
6 Alpine 3558 Class A's - for sale
Alpine DigiMax system complete for sale
BNIB MS2250 w/ shroud, 2 MS2250TAs, MS275, MQ430
2 Ti1200.1s, 2 ZX475Tis, Ti500.4, DD10, 6 Powercores
5 Orion 2100, 1 250 - HCCA Digital Ref. v2
6 Alpine 3558 Class A's - for sale
Alpine DigiMax system complete for sale
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
What? Two 4 ohm 6.5's in parallel is 2 ohms. 2 ohms bridged is 1 ohm stereo. The amp will handle it, but it's not ideal by any means.
I like STROKD's idea. Use the 500.4 to power your tweets and rear speakers. Then use the 600.2 to power your front mids. If that's really not enough, consider bridging the 500.4 to your fronts PASSIVELY, and power the rears on the 600.2.
I like STROKD's idea. Use the 500.4 to power your tweets and rear speakers. Then use the 600.2 to power your front mids. If that's really not enough, consider bridging the 500.4 to your fronts PASSIVELY, and power the rears on the 600.2.
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
150 x 2 on front woofers, 75 x 2 to tweeters, 75 x 2 to rear fill... if thats not enough, add another set of speakers up front and another amp.thedeal7235 wrote:before i went active i did bridge the fronts passively, and the output was very similiar to them active @ 75watts rms, hard to believe but true
FAS#73 & AX406A#73/Frank'd EQ230
BNIB MS2250 w/ shroud, 2 MS2250TAs, MS275, MQ430
2 Ti1200.1s, 2 ZX475Tis, Ti500.4, DD10, 6 Powercores
5 Orion 2100, 1 250 - HCCA Digital Ref. v2
6 Alpine 3558 Class A's - for sale
Alpine DigiMax system complete for sale
BNIB MS2250 w/ shroud, 2 MS2250TAs, MS275, MQ430
2 Ti1200.1s, 2 ZX475Tis, Ti500.4, DD10, 6 Powercores
5 Orion 2100, 1 250 - HCCA Digital Ref. v2
6 Alpine 3558 Class A's - for sale
Alpine DigiMax system complete for sale
- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:34 pm
- Location: PG FanBoy in Green Mtn Vermont
- Contact:
I use the chamelions front and rear... have two MS275's powering them
140X2 (front and rear 240 each)... seem to blend okay with the subs being driven by MS2250 (517 x 2) w/ bass CUBE
everything is wired for 2 - ohm stereo in the car passive up front, active for subs (sub outs crossed at 50/80/125 depending and fronts crossed at 80 or 125 ) actually recently thinking about getting vanity plate for car that reads "2-OHM" .. be neat I guess.
I like, BUT would be and anxious to get in the speaker tweakers from secondskin or damplierpro from them... need to do something as the rears dont show up on the radar so much and just think that with dampening and/or with some kind of custom enclosure for the chamelions I would get a much better response. Great now, but always room for improvement...ya know
OH and something else.. I made Doctors appointment last week to get ears cleaned.. havent had for while and all that.. so unbelievable.. if you want to add some response to your listening pleasure?? - get the ears cleaned out .. WOW what a difference... I hear a much better response with the highs/tweets with all the potatoes cleaned out of the ears... I suggest it to anyone that hasnt for a while..to do so.. I wanted to see if it would make a difference and it sure did.. had a bunch of wax in there... perhaps too much info for some, but the truth...
140X2 (front and rear 240 each)... seem to blend okay with the subs being driven by MS2250 (517 x 2) w/ bass CUBE
everything is wired for 2 - ohm stereo in the car passive up front, active for subs (sub outs crossed at 50/80/125 depending and fronts crossed at 80 or 125 ) actually recently thinking about getting vanity plate for car that reads "2-OHM" .. be neat I guess.
I like, BUT would be and anxious to get in the speaker tweakers from secondskin or damplierpro from them... need to do something as the rears dont show up on the radar so much and just think that with dampening and/or with some kind of custom enclosure for the chamelions I would get a much better response. Great now, but always room for improvement...ya know
OH and something else.. I made Doctors appointment last week to get ears cleaned.. havent had for while and all that.. so unbelievable.. if you want to add some response to your listening pleasure?? - get the ears cleaned out .. WOW what a difference... I hear a much better response with the highs/tweets with all the potatoes cleaned out of the ears... I suggest it to anyone that hasnt for a while..to do so.. I wanted to see if it would make a difference and it sure did.. had a bunch of wax in there... perhaps too much info for some, but the truth...
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- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
ok heres went i went with
-after many hours and different configurations, granted i luvd the 2 sets of ti mids wired in parrell and bridged to the 500.4 the best( it was getting too hot, and want no damage to the amp
and i would like to tell all thanks for your input, and suggestions, it definetly got me thinking, espicially the tweets to the 500.4, with rear6.5s(which would of given me 75 by4), along with the mids @ the 600.2, however, I decided to keep the 2 sets of 6.5s wired in parrell( i never spell that right), and i tried them on the 600.2 first, just a tad too much, and it sacrificed some clarity that way(which i believe was showing the 600.2 300 by 2@ 2ohms, so i wired the tweets back to the 600.2(150by2), and then went ahead and ran the mids only to the front channells of the 500.4, thus , per the specs 125 by 2 @ 2ohms, but ive seen some birth sheets claim on some ti 500.4s that it will run 150 by4@2 ohm loads?! if that is true, i may possibly add a set of 5.25s to the front, and then run them off the rear channel of the 500.4, or swap the wiring for the rear 6.5s to be on the rear channells, and wire in the 5.25s with the front 6.5s-
im tired and ill talk 2 u guys 2morrow-hurricane ike is probably 72 hours from here-oh joy
-after many hours and different configurations, granted i luvd the 2 sets of ti mids wired in parrell and bridged to the 500.4 the best( it was getting too hot, and want no damage to the amp
and i would like to tell all thanks for your input, and suggestions, it definetly got me thinking, espicially the tweets to the 500.4, with rear6.5s(which would of given me 75 by4), along with the mids @ the 600.2, however, I decided to keep the 2 sets of 6.5s wired in parrell( i never spell that right), and i tried them on the 600.2 first, just a tad too much, and it sacrificed some clarity that way(which i believe was showing the 600.2 300 by 2@ 2ohms, so i wired the tweets back to the 600.2(150by2), and then went ahead and ran the mids only to the front channells of the 500.4, thus , per the specs 125 by 2 @ 2ohms, but ive seen some birth sheets claim on some ti 500.4s that it will run 150 by4@2 ohm loads?! if that is true, i may possibly add a set of 5.25s to the front, and then run them off the rear channel of the 500.4, or swap the wiring for the rear 6.5s to be on the rear channells, and wire in the 5.25s with the front 6.5s-
im tired and ill talk 2 u guys 2morrow-hurricane ike is probably 72 hours from here-oh joy
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:34 pm
- Location: PG FanBoy in Green Mtn Vermont
- Contact:
i have some ID gear (componants) for sale.. CXS Stuff and XS Stuff 2-ohm.. if you want.. PM if interested... holladako wrote:I run a Tantrum 300.2 to a set of Alpine Type-R comps. It's a decent setup while I look for something with a bit more punch and audiophile quality.
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gonna now be running an x200.4 for my front stage more or less in a mixture of active and passive - 200 watts apiece is going to go to the 6,5" midbass drivers and the remaining two channels of 200 watts each is going to connect to a passive crosover that will split the signal to a 3" midrange and tweeter - that should sort out my front stage pretty nicely IMHO
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
- bretti_kivi
- Shutterbug
- Posts: 1595
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 1:06 pm
- Location: Päijät-Häme or Uusimaa
I'm actually thinking about this... what's the real point of 150W a side? Probably go with a 180.2 (so that's around 55W) for Midbass (tho' they're also 8Ohm!), if I get mids they'll have around 30W each and the tweets will get something similar.
Sub is going to get 500W. @ 4
I'll listen and then go searching for more power if I need it; I created enough space at the weekend that I can fit at least another 100.2 and a 300.4 in if I need it
and Epoxy resin rocks
Sub is going to get 500W. @ 4
I'll listen and then go searching for more power if I need it; I created enough space at the weekend that I can fit at least another 100.2 and a 300.4 in if I need it
and Epoxy resin rocks
DAMN!gkitching wrote:Tweeters getting 110w/chnl
Mids getting 110w/chnl
Midbass getting 400w/chnl
Total 620w/chnl up front
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
I believe it, I went active two months or so ago on my Polk SR6500's and OMG, what a diff!!!! Bigger soundstage, louder, cleaner, crisper, everything was an improvement over passive! BTW, anybody looking at a pair of high-end seperates MUST audition a pair of SR's! Set up properly, they are AMAZING!!!thedeal7235 wrote:before i went active i did bridge the fronts passively, and the output was very similiar to them active @ 75watts rms, hard to believe but true
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
Oh ya, the original thread! I am running a ZX-450 active on my Polks, so 75 watts by 4 on the front end. There is sooo much power it brings everything alive, it is truly amazing! I am also bypassing the amps internal crossovers in favor of my Alpine CDA-9887's on board ones, I just prefer the control at the HU... including time delay on my Polks set up individually (L-R tweets and L-R mids)! SWEEET!
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:34 pm
- Location: PG FanBoy in Green Mtn Vermont
- Contact:
well that's kinda a loaded question or one that is difficult to answer.. as I am really not sure to be honest.. I think they are active/passive if it can be??? I have the HU X'ed at 80 or 125 for the HPF (high pass filter).. but also use the passive xovers (that came with the ID Gear)... so does that make me passsive or active, or is that "passactive" - i dunnno I kinda covered this question in a recent past thread but didnt get a clear answer I dont think.. or i forgot to go back and look...gridracer wrote:Just curious why you wouldn't run the fronts active it would sound better.mhyde71 wrote: passive up front, active for subs (sub outs crossed at 50/80/125 depending and fronts crossed at 80 or 125 ) actu
BUT ALWAYS LOOKING FOR WAYS TO IMPROVE - Help A Brutha out - look out for'a Brutha!
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