Best PG Amp Series?
Best PG Amp Series?
Ever since I got into the car audio scene, I have used and loved the TI series amps.
Currently have a 2 TI400.2s powering two TI6 Elite components (front & back). Also have a TI800.1 which I had to power my 2 Infinity Kappa Perfects (Also have the TI 15 Farad Powercore if it's of any importance).
I am in the process of changing a couple of amps around and would like some input. I switched my TI800.1 with a Cadence DCA-2500 and switching my Infinity Kappa Perfects with 2 TI12D Elites.
I was thinking of switching my TI400.2 which powers the fronts with a ti500.4 (or zx475ti) (bridged to give me 250x2 for the front components) so the front components are more powerful than the rear and I have a more balanced sound (I think this theoretically works, input your thoughts if you have any).
I've also been thinking of switching both TI amps to a Xenon 200.4.
Should I switch to a ti500.4 in the front and maybe a ti600.2 for the rear or get a xenon 200.4? Maybe another PG series which is better than both of these (RSD??).
Let me know what you think on any of this. Thanks in advance.
Currently have a 2 TI400.2s powering two TI6 Elite components (front & back). Also have a TI800.1 which I had to power my 2 Infinity Kappa Perfects (Also have the TI 15 Farad Powercore if it's of any importance).
I am in the process of changing a couple of amps around and would like some input. I switched my TI800.1 with a Cadence DCA-2500 and switching my Infinity Kappa Perfects with 2 TI12D Elites.
I was thinking of switching my TI400.2 which powers the fronts with a ti500.4 (or zx475ti) (bridged to give me 250x2 for the front components) so the front components are more powerful than the rear and I have a more balanced sound (I think this theoretically works, input your thoughts if you have any).
I've also been thinking of switching both TI amps to a Xenon 200.4.
Should I switch to a ti500.4 in the front and maybe a ti600.2 for the rear or get a xenon 200.4? Maybe another PG series which is better than both of these (RSD??).
Let me know what you think on any of this. Thanks in advance.
Not sure if there can be one best. I am sure plenty of people have their favorites, and I am sure one can argue for the case of one series over another due to certain features or design.
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PG Stash: Xenon 1200.1 & 200.4, Bass Cube, RCA's
Caraudio-forum.com
HomeAudioForum.net
PG Stash: Xenon 1200.1 & 200.4, Bass Cube, RCA's
I'm a huge fan of the Titanium series for obvious reasons (sexy, high db crossover slopes), but the Tantrum line does it for me. I've got an extremely limited amount of space to work with and the small footprints do it for me. Nothing like being able to get about 1450 watts out of something just a little bit bigger than a loaf of ciabatta bread! 

dako, from what I heard when I was getting into the car audio scene and decided to go with the TI series is that the Tantrum series were inferior to the TI series - like a Mercedes and a Cadillac typa thing (no offense to anyone on this, just an old saying).
I personally have not heard the difference, but do you notice a difference between the Tantrum/Titanium series amps?
I personally have not heard the difference, but do you notice a difference between the Tantrum/Titanium series amps?
- Bfowler
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the differences between the tantrum and ti?
-fan cooled
-power ratings on the 2 and 4 channels were lower (the ta600.4 and ti600.4 say similar on paper....the ti will make about 25% more power when you hook it up to a DMM)
the tantrums dont a as high end of a output section, and less imput capacitance
the ti crossovers are slightly better
so i guess on all acounts the ti line was more highend.
that tantrum line is still a very solid nice sounding amp, and it think what dako likes is the small footprint, ease of install and price point. all made the tantrum a very desirable amp.
i would akin them to different types of ladies. the ti is a lady that goes to theater, elegant, black dress impress your parents type.
the tantrum is a drunken college girl type. both have their places
-fan cooled
-power ratings on the 2 and 4 channels were lower (the ta600.4 and ti600.4 say similar on paper....the ti will make about 25% more power when you hook it up to a DMM)
the tantrums dont a as high end of a output section, and less imput capacitance
the ti crossovers are slightly better
so i guess on all acounts the ti line was more highend.
that tantrum line is still a very solid nice sounding amp, and it think what dako likes is the small footprint, ease of install and price point. all made the tantrum a very desirable amp.
i would akin them to different types of ladies. the ti is a lady that goes to theater, elegant, black dress impress your parents type.
the tantrum is a drunken college girl type. both have their places

my ex-girlfriend said "its car audio or me"
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
haha, that's hilarious... in real life, I would go for the tantrum girl in this phase of my life and the ti girl later on when I'm older. Guess for amp life, I'd take the TI amp.Bfowler wrote: i would akin them to different types of ladies. the ti is a lady that goes to theater, elegant, black dress impress your parents type.
the tantrum is a drunken college girl type. both have their places
Let me rephrase my original question then... what amp (or 2 amps) would power my 2 TI6 Elites best? Size (and I guess price, up to a limit) doesn't matter, I would just want loudest without ANY sacrifice in sound quality. I tried hooking up one TI400.2 in 2 ohm mode by connecting the front and rear speakers in parallel - I thought it didn't sound as clean as having two TI400.2s at 4 ohms each.
- thedeal7235
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I'm not quite understanding what to do. What is a y adapter and how would I hook it up? Can you please elaborate?thedeal7235 wrote:if u have 2 ti400.2s why dont you bridge each one to each amp, run a yadapter and then its in stereo-? jmo
**EDIT**
Figured out what a y-adapter is, lol... When I bridged the four speakers into one amp, I still ran left/right stereo (lost front/back), it just didn't sound as clear as running two amps. It might be in my head though... should there be a SQ difference in running components in 2 ohm or 4 ohm loads?
- thedeal7235
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if u have 2 ti 400.2s in the car , which are both for fronts? or if u have two ti400.2, and one is for the sub then u cant do it, but if not, then what u do , is u take ur left front 6.5 bridge that to one ti 400.2, take ur right 6.5 and bridge that to the 2nd ti 400.2, take ur 2 female to male yadapters, one connects to the left rca, lets say to the left front 6.5 400.2 output, and same deal for the second, however this would in theory give u 400rms per speaker, unless ur using the passive xovers, then ud be splitting 400 watts rms to each side, but even in this case u have 2 be careful, not to use ur gains, the elites like alot of power, but distortion will kill any speaker, so i would suggest turning gains down all the way, and line driver as well to listen and then begin to increase line driver( if u have one), but even so would NOT suggest increasing the gains, wish i had 2 ti 400.2 to try on my elites
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
- thedeal7235
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i went back to the begining of ur posts, if ur running both sets passive( xover that came with them), id suggest get rid of the rear set and try what i was descibing on the front , or u could wire them all 2gether to drop the load on one 400.2, triaal and error, but be CAREFUL all gains turned all the way down, i think 2 400.2s running front would be best-jmo, though good luck and have FUN!
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
So what you're saying is to have both amps set for the front TI6 Elites and have the rear elites powered by, let's say, the head unit? This should give me a nicer sound?
This might be a stupid question, but why would 400w to each side with a passive crossover not really be 400w to each speaker (as opposed to an active crossover)?
What exactly is the difference b/w a passive and active crossover?
Thanks for your input!
This might be a stupid question, but why would 400w to each side with a passive crossover not really be 400w to each speaker (as opposed to an active crossover)?
What exactly is the difference b/w a passive and active crossover?
Thanks for your input!
- thedeal7235
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passives help to protect, were also designed for optimium performance, of the speakers they were designed for, however, they tend to drain some of your power, so ive experienced, trial and error, lots of questions here etc., if u have 2 speakers(let say left front side) and they both come off the input of a passive and ur amp is @ 100 by 2 @4ohms(assuming ur components are 4ohm, although ive seen image dynamics @ 2ohm) and bostons i think usually @ 3ohm, then, techinically speaking each speaker is getting 50 watts, or 100 watts divide by 2, or ur left front is receiving 100 watts-u have 2 speakers for ur left front,
in active ur not hooking up an input for 2 drivers, instead ur hooking the input/output for each driver, thus more power, and u have to have external( although ive used the pg amps internal xover, must push in ur multiply by 10 switch for your tweets, im sure someone else here is by far more better at explaing this than me-
in active ur not hooking up an input for 2 drivers, instead ur hooking the input/output for each driver, thus more power, and u have to have external( although ive used the pg amps internal xover, must push in ur multiply by 10 switch for your tweets, im sure someone else here is by far more better at explaing this than me-
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
Thanks for the explanation...
Follow up question: Since the recommended RMS wattage for the TI6 Elites is 300w, does that mean that the max the midbass (or the tweeter) can take is 150w? Basically, what is the max RMS you can hook up to the TI6 midbass (or tweeter) without blowing it from too much power if you go active?
Follow up question: Since the recommended RMS wattage for the TI6 Elites is 300w, does that mean that the max the midbass (or the tweeter) can take is 150w? Basically, what is the max RMS you can hook up to the TI6 midbass (or tweeter) without blowing it from too much power if you go active?
- thedeal7235
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- CarAudioGuru
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i just sold my pair of ms2125's, i think i my regret this some day, i still have the 2250's thoughCarAudioGuru wrote:Best PG amplfiers EVER. ZPA. Also biggest pain in the ass,
Best series of amplifers EVER built for car audio
MS Series!!
Indestructible. Killer build (especially MS2125) Great design, simple, elegant.
That would be MY choice.

my next install will consist of a pair of route66's both bridged to 3 channels each and running the front end only, hope these can match the magic of the ms2125's

Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
IMNSHO the ZPA series are the best amps ever made, period. ZPA pain in the ass?? How so?CarAudioGuru wrote:Best PG amplfiers EVER. ZPA. Also biggest pain in the ass,
Best series of amplifers EVER built for car audio
MS Series!!
Indestructible. Killer build (especially MS2125) Great design, simple, elegant.
That would be MY choice.
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
- HoseHead
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And Fowler knows. Both types follow him around like the stink on a polecat's ass.gkitching wrote:You have such a way with words.Bfowler wrote:i would akin them to different types of ladies. the ti is a lady that goes to theater, elegant, black dress impress your parents type.
the tantrum is a drunken college girl type. both have their places



HH
The only stupid question is the one not asked .......
- CarAudioGuru
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- Location: Phoenix
ZPA's HAVE to have a Line Driver (TBA??) of some type as their input gain structure was very low. Like 2-8 volts, instead of the more normal .2 -4 volts that 99% of all other amplifiers built have.
Remember that this was the "KRELL/Mark Levinsion" of car amplifers.
And becasue of the cool looking plex cover it was VERY easy to accidently drop small little wires inside (turns out that was the #1 failure, BTW).
I also added a "Failsafe " feature - an ultra small mirco switch under the one of the screws that held the lid down. So when you were adjusting the amplifier, you had to know that you needed to insert a screw so the remote turn on worked. It was in the manual.
We shipped 10 Pre-Pro ZPA-03 to retialers all over the USA. The "Cream of the Crop" so to speak.
9 amps were returned telling us that they were DOA and didn't work.
Not ONE dealer called and asked "WTF?", they just returned them.
It was the micro switch deal. They had pulled off the top to look inside and make adjustments, and it wouldn't turn on.
So when dealers ask me "You think we're stupid? I always respond with "I don't think so,....I KNOW so!!"
Trust me I have LOTS of retarded retailer stories.
Remember that this was the "KRELL/Mark Levinsion" of car amplifers.
And becasue of the cool looking plex cover it was VERY easy to accidently drop small little wires inside (turns out that was the #1 failure, BTW).
I also added a "Failsafe " feature - an ultra small mirco switch under the one of the screws that held the lid down. So when you were adjusting the amplifier, you had to know that you needed to insert a screw so the remote turn on worked. It was in the manual.
We shipped 10 Pre-Pro ZPA-03 to retialers all over the USA. The "Cream of the Crop" so to speak.
9 amps were returned telling us that they were DOA and didn't work.
Not ONE dealer called and asked "WTF?", they just returned them.
It was the micro switch deal. They had pulled off the top to look inside and make adjustments, and it wouldn't turn on.
So when dealers ask me "You think we're stupid? I always respond with "I don't think so,....I KNOW so!!"
Trust me I have LOTS of retarded retailer stories.
Larry Frederick
"Original PG Guy"
"Original PG Guy"
Other than the minor requirement for a line driver, the ZPA and MS series require the same power level commitments, ie 1/0, alternator, etc. PG built upon the MS line when creating the ZPA's! I mean, look at this animal!
- Attachments
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- The baddest amp ever, the mighty ZPA0.5!
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Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
- CarAudioGuru
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- Location: Phoenix