Phoenix Gold Phorum

I am looking for something I can put in the doors. They must be shallow mount since there's the window which won't allow the magnet to go very far out and must be free air (unless someone can recommend how I can make my doors "feel" like a sealed box).

PG Ti9 perhaps

lol, oh yeah, forgot to add another condition - something that I can realistically get. Idk, but I can't find the TI9 ANYWHERE, otherwise I'd already have them.

I know its not an 8" midbass but why not look into the Focal Utopia 5" midbass.

Kicker SSMB's are cheap, shallow mount, and not too bad for the money.

stipud wrote:Kicker SSMB's are cheap, shallow mount, and not too bad for the money.

I actually got the Kickers SSMB8s in the doors right now, but they "pop" when I turn the volume up. I've tried running 100w RMS to each one and they still pop. I bought another set like these before and burned their voice coils cause they kept on popping.

So, I was wondering if there was another set that might be a bit better.

How deep can you go? There are lots of options...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=297-449
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=297-078
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=297-056
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=295-610

You could also try building an enclosure for the SSMBs, if you haven't already.

I havent heard these, but I love JL sub woofers... never owned anything but.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_comp ... ries_id=31

I'd think these would jam. 8" shallow mount mid bass JL baby woofers. 125 RMS

I seen the new JL shallow midbass

the DLS Iridiums are shallow as well

Morel 8in midbass is shallow too

There is a pair of Ti9's for sale in the UK , $200.

Kicker is shallow as well.

My friend had a set of the SSMB8s and they popped with around 100 watts. i was not a fan of those at all. He replaced them with some jl ib8's and those were way better than the kickers.

I've been looking at the different 8's mentioned by stipud and am trying to figure out what the small signal parameters mean...

Fs, Qes, Qms, Qts, Re, Vas, speaker inductance, etc.

I got the definitions of most of them here -> http://www.diysubwoofers.org/misc/dumax/dumax.htm, but still can't figure out what they mean practically.

I would like to know these so I can compare sub by sub to decide which one to get... Morel HU9.1, Morel CAW938, Morel MW-267, PG TI9 Elite.

Also, if the Morel's are 8 Ohm subs, and I wanna power them off the rear channels of a x200.4, will I still get 200w per side on them? I can wire them in parallel and get 400x1 @ 4 ohms (200 to each then), or can connect them directly to the amp to try to get 200x2 @ 8 ohms... which do you recommend?

You would have to connect the speakers in parallel to get 200w to each of them. Considering the purpose of midbass is to provide L/R separation in your bass frequencies (giving you bass imaging as well as midrange and treble), I would recommend against wiring them in mono unless you can help it.

Those parameters can be used in software like BassBox Pro or WinISD, in order to graph the response range of each driver. It gives you a good idea about the frequencies they can play, but still doesn't conclusively tell you how they sound. Since they are all Morel drivers (the PG is made by Morel too), i'd bet they have very similar acoustic properties, so just pay attention to the rated frequency response... For midbass you would probably want to buy whatever plays the lowest, with the least distortion.

... how much space do you have? How big are the doors? did you already have them apart?

WinISD can really help, if you simulate you'll see approximately what might happen. If you have a door that's not sealed, try putting it in a huge logical box (200cuft+) and that should give you an indication of the response, but it's not much help if you don't have a clue what you're looking for.

Other recommendations: HAT L8s, Seas CA22RLY, Peerless SLS8. The latter need POWER, pref. 150W+ per side.

Bret

Thanks for the replies...

I'm not looking for any mids, I just need that 80-150 Hz that I'm missing from the sub and the 6" Elites. I feel like I have a lot of low power but when I need that tight fast bass, the 6's cannot keep up, and the imaging sounds bad.

As far as room goes, I have up to 3" mounting depth. It is going to be in the doors and I can't build a box for them like I saw someone else here did because the door just physically doesn't allow it.

My main reason for asking what those meant is because I want the ones that perform best in "free air." I am going to try to build some door sealant, but I don't think it's going to be much since the door leaves very little room for any work.

If anyone has any ideas on sealing the doors, help me out (1997 (95-99 works) Nissan Maxima, if you or someone you know has done it before).

Peerless XLS, Peerless SLS both are good 8" mid-bass drivers. The new JL 8" midbass is nice too.

M3NTAL wrote:Peerless XLS, Peerless SLS both are good 8" mid-bass drivers. The new JL 8" midbass is nice too.

The new JL 8" are too deep - I can only afford up to 3" mounting depth, no more than that.

I can't find anything on peerless

dis one: http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/printview.php?id=36

but it's 4" deep...

CSS SDX7? why does it need to be 8"?

Bret

bretti_kivi wrote:CSS SDX7? why does it need to be 8"?

Doesn't need to be 8", can be 7, 8, 9... the only thing is that usually, the bigger the diameter, the nicer it hits... I don't think you can compare too many 6" drivers to a 9".

The problem is I have 2 TI12D Elites powered at 2500w, 2 TI6 Elite comps powered at 300x2 (front) and 200x2 (rear) and really lack something from 80~150Hz. I have the doors as the only place left on my car I can fit something and really trying to get something in there powerful enough to keep up with the rest.

Side question... can you put in 2 8" (or 10s) in the trunk next to the 12s, or will that start having cancellation problems and stuff? I can prob fit two 10s somewhere back there if that's the case. EDIT - nm on this , I hate the sound of 10s in the trunk hitting at 150 Hz... sounds like everything's coming from back there.

Yep, having midbass in the back defeats the purpose.

You can get creative and mount them in the floor and build a custom housing. That is what I plan on doing with my project car once I eventually get it to the point that I can even consider installing any audio.

Ti9's with 250 watts per channel is what you need. Simple really.

check out the SDX7. Shedloads of XMax, and it's basically a rebuilt Adire Extremis (really usable from 600Hz down). You have rear doors? Why not put a pair of these in there, then another pair up front. Cross the rear ones at <100Hz.. There was a big argument (with some truth, probably) that rear "fill" midbass would help to bring the stage forward and give it some depth. Alternative: find a JL 6W0? Peerless SLS6? TangBand W6-1139I (think that's the name, not 100% sure)

I'll try and find the link later.

Bret

maka78 wrote:lol, oh yeah, forgot to add another condition - something that I can realistically get. Idk, but I can't find the TI9 ANYWHERE, otherwise I'd already have them.

here you go... BNIB Ti9's...:
http://phoenixphorum.com/fs-ti9s-bnib-a ... t7539.html

E350Titanium wrote:Ti9's with 250 watts per channel is what you need. Simple really.

Hey, welcome back!

Maka, this guy has a kick ass install almost identical to your own.

So I decided to pick up the TI9s... was a lot of money (that I don't have right now), but hopefully they're worth it.

I got a whole bunch of Qs for these, but I'll wait till I get them before I start asking away, lol.

Thanks for the help guys.