Phoenix Gold Phorum

Hey, i've got some questions about this kit.
How much power can i really give them?
I know that according to the manual they can handle 120W. Don't know if it is RMS or Max though.

Right now i´m powering them with a 4 channel amplifier that runs in bridged mode and gives 2x155wmrs in 4 ohm. Sounds really good to me but can they really handle that amount of power?

Another thing, do i need to have som sort of filter that cuts off the lowest freq´s, like below 50hz or so?
Right now i only use the filter that came along with the kit and it only cut the higher freqs for the midbass but i sounds really good to me
Didn´t know that such small speakers as 6.5" could play such a deep and "punchy" bass but these things sure can.

Is this PG´s best 6.5" kit or can i find any better stuff somewhere out there?

Hope you guys can read and understand my bad english, looking forward for some help with my questions

First off, Welcome!

Emil89 wrote:Sounds really good to me but can they really handle that amount of power?

Yes! Yes! Yes!

Emil89 wrote:Another thing, do i need to have som sort of filter that cuts off the lowest freq´s, like below 50hz or so? Right now i only use the filter that came along with the kit and it only cut the higher freqs for the midbass but i sounds really good to me

We went over this before on the phorum but I can't remember the exact conclusion. I think the passive crossovers are actually band pass for the mids and high pass for the tweeters. Also, if you have them in a fairly small enclosure, they will roll off quite naturally as well.

Emil89 wrote:Didn´t know that such small speakers as 6.5" could play such a deep and "punchy" bass but these things sure can.

RSdC65cs are known for their crazy midbass

Emil89 wrote:Is this PG´s best 6.5" kit or can i find any better stuff somewhere out there?

I guess that depends on your definition of "best". In terms of current lines, RSd is the top. A lot of people like the discontinued Ti Elite comp set and it is generally considered higher end but I don't know if it's as clear cut as "better". The RSd components are generally considered PG best value in components so far (price/performance ratio).

Emil89 wrote:Hope you guys can read and understand my bad english, looking forward for some help with my questions

Your english is fine!

Thanks alot for a very fast reply

So i might even should coinsider getting myselft a better amplifier with more power output, would that improve the performance even more?

I've also read something that the performance improves alot if i work on getting the door to act more like a sealed box rather than just playing them right out in the door, is that true?

I can post some pictures of my mounting in a couple of days and you can give me some tips about what i can make better etc.
I'm a beginner so i'm sure that there are alot of things that i can do better

Emil89 wrote: I've also read something that the performance improves alot if i work on getting the door to act more like a sealed box rather than just playing them right out in the door, is that true?

this is true.

you don't need to build a "box" or even seal the area. what you want to accomplish is separating the front of the speaker from the back.

you can use dynamat (or similar products) to cover the holes in your door where the speaker is mounted

How loud is it right now? I'd only consider another amplifier for two reasons:

1. Want better SQ
2. Want it louder

Like Bfowler said, you can install the speakers in "infinite baffle" or you can put them in an actual enclosure. I have mine (6" though) in a very small, very heavy enclosure and I love the sound.

Bfowler wrote:

Emil89 wrote: I've also read something that the performance improves alot if i work on getting the door to act more like a sealed box rather than just playing them right out in the door, is that true?

this is true.

you don't need to build a "box" or even seal the area. what you want to accomplish is separating the front of the speaker from the back.

you can use dynamat (or similar products) to cover the holes in your door where the speaker is mounted

Ok, then i must say thay i've got a pretty good installation right now but it can be improved.
I got 4 small holes in the door-cover where the air just blows through when i'm plyaing fairly loud, so if i seal them better i'm sure it will improve

What about the crossovers that come along with the kit, are they any good or is there better options to get to it better? Not that it's any bad right now but you get my point

The crossover is lowpass on the midrange, and highpass on the tweeter. You still need a high pass filter near 50Hz as you suggested. This will keep the speakers from breaking up when trying to play bass lower than they are capable of. Your amp should have this feature, otherwise your headunit might have it. If neither do, you will need an external active crossover.

I am not sure what you mean by "4 holes in the door-cover". The issue is not getting your door panel to be solid, but instead you want to cover the entire surface of the door that the speaker is mounted to.

Like this:
http://michaelandbrendabyrne.com/images ... _door1.jpg

You can also dynamat BEHIND that (on the outer surface of the door) for even better results. Finally, a deflex pad mounted under the woofer will make it EVEN BETTER.

Emil89 wrote: Ok, then i must say thay i've got a pretty good installation right now but it can be improved.
I got 4 small holes in the door-cover that the air just blows through when i'm plyaing fairly loud, so if i seal them better i'm sure it will improve

YES. when sound comes through the back of these holes it cancels the waves from in front of the holes. pretty easy job that yeilds some great effects.

Emil89 wrote: What about the crossovers that come along with the kit, are they any good or is there better options to get to it better? Not that it's any bad right now but you get my point

these passive crossovers are actually quite good. i don't recommend replacing them, as most crossovers (from every brand) are designed FOR THAT SPEAKER.

so if you used another one, it would likly not show any improvements because it was made just for the RSD's.


you could very well BUILD one that's better, but it would require quite a bit of labor and testing which in my opinion isn't worth the small (if any) results that would come of it.


another option is bi-amping (or running ACTIVE)

you use a separate amp channel for each tweet and mid and get rid of the passive crossover completely.

you would need to purchase a aftermarket crossover that can do this, but a few members have reported good results from this.

personally, i like the passive crossover sound enough that i wouldn't go through the work or cost to do it differently.

just my opinion

Just bought a pair of these off of fleabay yesterday. For $70 shipped, how could I not? My Alpine comps are sounding tired as hell and extremely flat. This'll also give me a chance to apply some eDead to the door frames and relocate my tweeters out of the factory locations. They've pretty much been sounding like crap there since I put them in, but I've been too lazy up until now to deal with them.

70 shipped? Could you pm me the company I have to get a new pair as my tweets blew. Let me know thanks.

I keep reading everywhere that they state

the speakers can handle both 120rms

BUT to each speaker 60rms

I totally thought it was 120rms to each speaker not 60rms.... maybe thats how i blew/burnt a tweeter.

deathcloud wrote:I keep reading everywhere that they state

the speakers can handle both 120rms

BUT to each speaker 60rms

I totally thought it was 120rms to each speaker not 60rms.... maybe thats how i blew/burnt a tweeter.

bdubs (member here ) put 300W per side on his test set of RSd65cs and never blew them....

When a component set is given an RMS rating, that's the value PER SIDE. So each set is rated for 120w rms... not 60 each.

deathcloud wrote:70 shipped? Could you pm me the company I have to get a new pair as my tweets blew. Let me know thanks.

sent you a PM. don't blow this set up!

I'd think 120 x 2 on these would be more than plenty.

thanks i was just making sure. I mean IIRC it said 125 rms on the bottom of the speakers... thats why i was confused...

I run 200 per side to mine every day. Granted I'm not running them full tilt all the time, but they sure do sing when I do....

I did promise you guys som pictures of my installation and here they are.

It's NOT good looking at all but it does sound awsome.
Before i didn't manage to get it to function as it suppose to, air was coming through alot of holes in the lower part of the doorcover but now i've got it pretty good









Any thoughts/comments about it?

No covers? Also gotta love that wire job! LOL!

Yeah the wire job is the best part

It's just like that for testing right now, i have to do it for real som time but it works just fine now so why bother really?

Good function goes before appearance for me and i'm to lazy to combine both of them.

No covers yet, they dont fit the MDF ring that the speakers are mounted to. Need to figure something out.

Emil89 wrote: No covers yet, they dont fit the MDF ring that the speakers are mounted to. Need to figure something out.

Do they fit inside at all? If they do get some rope caulk and use that to hold them in.

I'm not sure of the make/model, but based on that door panel, that's the last car you'd want some "rim-lookin'-ass" speaker grills in.

It's and old Mercedes 190E so your right about that, i got some nice ones but they dont fit very well but i'll figure something out

Today i have made the same thing to the other door panel aswell and i must say that it makes a huge differance to really get the panel "airtight" and separate the back from the front of the speaker element if you know what i mean. The bass is now even better than before, it has got more "attack" in every punch, sounds more controlled.