Phoenix Gold Phorum

Can anyone tell me if the Tantrum 1200.1 can go down to two ohms. Im currently running the tantrum 1200.1 and a single 12" RF power hx2 in a ported box. I dont think the tantrum has enough power to push it?. When I turn it up I hear this spurt coming from the speaker. Any suggestions or comments would be good.

The next Q is that I just picked up a 12 JLW7 in a sealed wedge box and it fucken slams hard. Thats what i was looking for...but when i tend to crank up the juice i blow my fuse up front by my battery. Im running a 4 gauge wire. Any suggestions why im blowing the fuse up front. When I use the RF power rated at 4ohms , i can crank it up but sounds shitty and NEVER blow the fuse.

But when i use the JL rated at 3 ohms sounds good for a couple of minutes then i blow the fuse. Whats up with that, does the tantrum go to 2 ohms.

My setup is:

01 Toyota tundra

Phoenix gold Tantrum 600: mids and highs
Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1 : Bass

Both have 4 gauge wire to them and a brand new Die hard platinum rated at 880 cca and 135 RC. My lights dim when playing hard.. any suggestions maybe a power cap?

The tantrum 1200.1 is stable down to 2 ohms. It requires an 80 amp fuse w/in 14"s of the amp, the fuse at the battery has to be rated to protect the wire to the amps, not the amps themselves. Make sure the amp has an excellent ground. Fuses blow because to much current is being drawn through them. My guess is your fuse is not the correct size, tell us what it is? The T1200.1 will draw much more current running into lower impedance loads, I believe the birth sheets list them as drawing ~120 amps, however, PG recommends a 80a fuse. Do not run a larger fuse than recommended, or your amp will burn instead of the fuse!

And most importantly, 4g is way to small. 4g is marginal for a 1200 watt Class D amp, but it will work IF it is the only amp. Since you are running a 600.4 as well, well, you don't have large enough wire. Time to upgrade to 1/0g.

The proper sized power and ground wire and a good ground connection will go a long ways toward eliminating the headlight problem. A capacitor is not the answer. Search, it has been beaten to death. Buy enough wire to upgrade the big 3 while you are getting stuff to fix the problems.

The RF sub probably sounded like junk, because, well, they are. J/k, I have no recent experience with any rockford product, it has been about 10 years since I looked at them. Lots of things can go badly with a sub though, mechanical, electrical and poor box design can all be the likely culprits. You have proved it isn't the amp by using the JL...

Later,
Jason

I have two separate wires. The 1200 has a 4 gauge with 80 fuse and the 600 has 6 gauge with 60 fuse, BOTH going straight to the battery. So each amp had its own wire and fuse. Thge only amp fuse blowing is the 1200. I thought I should change power wires to a 0?. Grounds are cherry as i have no noise.

Are you using any bass boost? If so, turn that off and see if it makes a difference.

Have you measured your amplifier output and set your gains properly with a DMM yet? If not, you may be clipping the amp when you crank the juice and that would cause the amplifier to draw MUCH more current and blow your fuse. What's your HU/line driver output voltage?

While the T1200.1 is listed as being stable down to 2 ohms, I believe many people here have experienced reliability issues with the amp down that low. I've heard several people mention these amps are real champs at 4 ohms but can crap out on you at 2 ohms if you're slamming it hard.

Speaking from personal experience, I ran a T1200.1 at 2 ohms for about 6 years with no issues. I am not retarded with it though, so maybe that is why I had good luck with it.

Fuzzy makes some good points, definitely set gains properly before going on. 4g is still borderline for a amp this size, how long is the run?

Just because you have no noise, does not mean you have a good ground. A poor ground can just be a high resistance connection, and can damage the amp as it causes it to draw more current then necessary. I have a friend who grounded a T1200 to a seat bolt with a big brass PG bolt on ring terminal. The cable got so hot that it melted and discolored the insulation for about 10 inches, and eventually failed by melting the ring off the terminal. All the while, it slammed hard and sounded fine, but it did dim the headlights badly...

Good luck,
Jason

I forgot to mention I have a clarion eq hooked up as well. I dont know where the grounds are connected because it was hooked up from a proffesional shop. But obviously not professional enuff. THey also mentioned that i should just get a second battery put it close to the amp and zero gauge. What are other options that i can do? Im not too worried about the light dimming but what can i do to prevent blowing my fuse at the battery.?

the run from my battery to my backseat of my toyota tundra extracab is about 7 feet. That wire is a 4 gauge. I have not measured my amp output with a dmm? I really dont know too much about this stuff, but just a little.

I have the gain set to 75% of the way, should i back it down to at least 50%? The bass boost on the amp is also in the middle. Thanks for all your guys help. Any other options?

do u have a line driver?, as fuzzy asked? irregardless, TURN the bass boost to zero, inmy opinion, and back ur gain down a bit 50 percent or lower, u could get 1/0gauge , a single run from ur battery-fused within 18 inches after the battery , to a fused distribution block, (1 that has 2 4gauge outputs-all pg amps suggest no less than 4 gauge, eventhough it sounds like the 6 gauge has been working for you on the t600-make sure, all ur paint is scraped off the vehicles chasis for ur grounds, try that, I think, then see if the dimming goes away , and more importantly ur fuse blowing, maybe use a anl120-150 amp fuse off the battery, then the rec. fuse sizes in the distro block for each amps out(4gauge)-

Ya no line driver.. I see what you mean get a 0/2 gauge wire 120 -150 amp fuse off the battery to the distrubution block with 4 gauge to the amps w/80 fuse to the amps. So turn the bass to zero..kay I'll try that, that sounds good, after all that i dont need a power cap? Any other suggestions out there...

well, the power cap debate here has been ongoing, a power cap is very beneficial, if ur electrical system is already working properly-personally i use a small stinger battery at the back of my audi; the 1/0 gauge comes in to that from the main red top optima i have, then 4gauge comes off of the stinger battery to fused distro block-then i have 2 4gauge power wires(fused) going to my 2 seperate highs/mids amps, then 4 gauge to my power cap for my rsd 1200.1-see, in my audi it came equipped with a 150 amp alternator, but its very difficult to get a higher output alt. for my car model, so i have experienced ,in my audi, a power cap to help in the peaks of my music, and clean up the bass a little-but this is the first car out of many ive ever used one; i do hear alot of people using them to help their electrical problems, but it actually drains if its not already up to par(ur electrical system)- try running the 1/0 gauge first, and make sure u have 4 gauge going into any phoenix gold amp always-thats my suggestion, and may be cheaper in the long run, then it will be easier to say , u need a gel battery , power cap, etc.-this is all my opinion , based upon what ive experienced-

oh, also, deathcloud has a pld-1 line driver(also a sld-44) on here for sale for , i thinki saw it at 30bux shipped?-u have to double check the price on that with him, but that will help to clean ur signal up being sent to the amps, and you will not need to turn ur gains up so high-which helps to have a longer life on ur amps and better sq( btw the pld-1 used to be mine, i sold to him a few months back-