MPS refinishing

[stipud]

After years of drooling, I finally got my first MS/MPS amp

http://photo.stipud.com/v/stereo/MPS2500/

It's a little rough around the edges, but I want to fix it up and keep it. I was wondering, does anyone know if there are any 2500 heatsinks left at PG, or were they finally sold off at the F&F? And maybe plexi bottoms? Or even metal ones? I know they are out of endplates and terminals, so I will have to live with them.

Anyone know what caps I could use for the input and rails? Preferably somewhere that ships to Canada-ville? I've already got the sil-pads to do the rest of the job. Thanks Nico

Also, has anyone painted one before? Does it work well or would I need to powdercoat it? If it does work, is there a shade of white I can find to match it? If not, I might go with something a little crazier and metallic for fun.

[thedeal7235]

ive recently used newark.com, not sure about canada or not; theyve been very helpful, and fair on price for me-

[thedeal7235]

saweet looking amp, looks good from the pics-forgot to mention

[AVICJR]

Vin recently had one powder coated. I sent him a piece and he had it refinished as well. Looks very nice. OOHH, you should have it done in black!!

[stipud]

Yeah, the only bummer is how the screws to mount the bottom plate are completely sheared off

http://photo.stipud.com/v/stereo/MPS250 ... ewsIndex=1

If it wasn't for that, the sink would be totally salvageable. I will try to thread these out if it's possible though...

[AVICJR]

Maybe you can find a machinist who can just tap the screw out? If not, I'll ask around (I live in an industrial town) and you can send it to me to have it prepped for refinish for you.

[stipud]

I've got a whole tap and die set available... if it comes to that though, it will be nearly impossible to keep the same thread. I will have to go a bit larger, which means new screws... unless I can find a threaded insert of the same thread and pitch as the factory screws

[Rold Gold]

I can say the I grabbed all of the sinks that PG had left at F&F.(Yer very welcome Nico )
Personally, I'd have it powder coated. As for the screws, drill them out and just have a plexi made with the right countersink holes. You loose all the silk screen but having the endplates powdered also will ensure a long life. And it wont matter anyhow cus you'll invert them anyhow.

[Wakeup]

I think the 2250 is the same size right?
If so, itchy's got a Blue....backplate...New....sitting in my garage....
Or the plexi....either way...depends on what he wants to keep...my bet is he'll want to keep the plexi for sure....the blue backplate doesn't match the Black 2250....
I would say it is either the same color as the PG silk screen on the MS series white colored amps...or maybe a tad darker...I haven't looked at it in a while....but it definitely could just LOOK darker because it is allllll blue.....and not blue on white.

[rlockwood]

I've got a whole tap and die set available... if it comes to that though, it will be nearly impossible to keep the same thread. I will have to go a bit larger, which means new screws... unless I can find a threaded insert of the same thread and pitch as the factory screws

Helicoils come in every size imaginable, and its quite easy. Most automotive stores sell kits, they come with the necessary drill, tap, and inserts. Would never have to worry about those threads again! in aerospace, we use them on every tapped hole. Its too easy to destroy aluminum threads with a steel fastener.

I would recommend powdercoat as well. If you spray paint it yourself, the finish will fail over time. And most likely there wouldnt be a cost difference between having it powdercoated or prepped and sprayed by someone else, and powdercoat is simply more durable than paint..

Looks like a great amp though!