Phoenix Gold Phorum

I have this posted also under my Ti elite sub thread but I still need help

(2) X600.1's powering (1) Ti elite sub

When any loud low note hits it sends one of my X600.1's into protection (led blinks.) Both amp gains set to the minimum as well as bass and subsonic. They play fine at lower levels but as soon as I crank it up either one or the other X600.1 goes into the mode above. I tested the voltage at the amps with an RMD: 11.5 v with the car off, and 14.2 v with the car on.

Note: I still have the factory alternator and battery.

Test the voltage at the amps while you crank it. Does it sag enough to turn the amps off?

how are they receiving input voltage? did you use a y adaptor to give them the same input? (this wouldn't cause the above problem i don't think, but just curious)

If you are registering 11.5 with the system off you are already experiencing a problem. What is the battery voltage at the battery and at the amp? If there is more than 0.2v difference you have a very significant voltage drop which will be very noticeable when crank the volume.


Your amp should see 12.6 volts at rest. and as much as 14.7 with the car at a high idle.

First off thank you everyone!

Stipud
1.) Voltage at the amps cranked was 14.2 v (tested with PG RMD) but it went into protection pretty quickly.

Fowler
2.) 1 RCA out to TX406 xover, 1 out to X200.2 HP, and then 1 LP out to X600.1, then from the X600.1 output to the other X600.1

Errin
3.) I will test the voltage at the battery in a few. Voltage at battery 12.7v (car off) 14.2 v with the car on.

I am going to upgrade to a yellowtop. I am looking into a HO alternator also. What size alternator should I look at? (2) X600.1's ((1) X200.4 eventually).

For some reason, the amps aren't going into protection anymore when the car is on. I cranked the gains up to half way on each amp and the bass up 8 clicks. They still go into protection with the car off.

Which should I do first battery or alternator?

I ordered a 220 amp HO alterntor today.

Redtop or Yellowtop?

kinetic-top

as far as optimas go, it think there are some generic brands that use optima internals.

i went with the red top, it was my understanding it was a more "daily driver" battery. you just cant let it die or it wont fully charge again

Bfowler wrote:kinetic-top

linky? Are they available locally? I've never looked for one. I used to work for Sam's and they had the red and yellow tops.

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/powercells.asp

they look spendy on the site, but you can get them way cheaper. I think Errin might have an in somewhere, shoot him a PM

I did the calculations per website and it's telling me I need two of the 1400's. I don't know about all that.

Ive never understood why people upgrade battery? When the car is on, all the power is generated by the alternator. Or am I missing something

I run two of the Kinetik 800's , more than enough juice for me. A good alternator is the key though.

So I'll be okay just running the redtop and save $30?

the yellow top has quicker discharge, but the redtop is more practical for Daily driving. thats what i got out of it.


the kinetiks act are more like giant capacitors. Very quick discharge.

i think you would be fine with a redtop.

Thanks, I wasn't trying to ignore your suggestions I just was looking at getting sonething a little more available. I can get a redtop for $136+tax, and a yellow top for $159+tax. I really don't care about saving the money, but if the yellowtop is overkill than I'll just get a redtop. BTW I drive 2 hours back and forth if this makes any difference.

I have the 220 amp HO alternator in yellowtop in, and the amps are louder, but still clipping. They are not as finicky, they will reach higher volumes before they clip, but still clipping!

Could my ground be the issue? I will upgrade the factory ground on the battery soon (within next couple of days). I have a ZP ground block in my trunk with 0 gauge in ~ 1.5 ft. . and 4 gauge out to all amps. I didn't want to send another 0 gauge to the battery for ground if I don't have to because:

1. Cost 2. Availability of PG gear.

Do I maybe need a line driver? Could it be that I only have one set of RCA's running to the back? using the sub amp out RCA to the other sub amp in.

Didn't have my DMM with me today will test tomorrow.

Hey I know this fella named Scott thats selling his Kinetic battery, he already sold it to me so maybe he can give you a better price

1moreamp wrote:Hey I know this fella named Scott thats selling his Kinetic battery, he already sold it to me so maybe he can give you a better price

HA HA, not funny.

What up Cecil? Haven't heard much from you lately. You must be busy.

I heard it is in a pawn shop somewhere, or that could have been another lie, it's hard to tell with that guy!

Avic, you're rollin a GM IIRC............

If I am correct then first things first upgrade your under hood power and ground, especially the ground. GM sucks for the factory ground worse than any other car maker, you may have a 14AWG chassis ground............Weak sauce.

It's a Mustang. I'm upgrading the ground to 0 gauge to the chassis either 2morrow or Thurs. I'm leaning more towards this being my prob. I'm praying this is my prob.

I ran a new 8 gauge (+) from battery to factory fuse block. I have 0 gauge to amps. and 4 gauge to alt. I will replace with 0 gauge to alt also soon. I just have to pull some slack off my main run and cut it to use for the alt.

I've been trying to follow your tutorial on the How to section, but am only able to do a little at a time.

Does your alternator have a grounding stud? I would also recommend you run a 0 gauge ground from the battery to near the alt somewhere.

You should have... 0 gauge power and ground from alt to battery, 0 gauge ground from battery to frame, 0 gauge to the amps, 0 gauge in the back. Make sure your grounding point in the back is a good one. If it's some shitty piece of thin spot welded sheet metal, you should look for somewhere a bit better.

I'm replacing the ground to battery w/ 0 gauge today. No ground spot for alt.I was trying to avoid 0 gauge ground from bat. to amps, will save as last alternative. The ground in the back is in my trunk. I sanded to bare metal, it's a thick piece because it's directly above the gas tank.

AVICJR wrote:I have this posted also under my Ti elite sub thread but I still need help

(2) X600.1's powering (1) Ti elite sub

When any loud low note hits it sends one of my X600.1's into protection (led blinks.) Both amp gains set to the minimum as well as bass and subsonic. They play fine at lower levels but as soon as I crank it up either one or the other X600.1 goes into the mode above. I tested the voltage at the amps with an RMD: 11.5 v with the car off, and 14.2 v with the car on.

Note: I still have the factory alternator and battery.

Sounds like you may have too thin power/ground cables, and/or a bad ground and/or bad connectors.

I'd check that first, what sizes do you use?

BR,
Jonas