How do PG Ti Elite subs compare to JL?
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
How do PG Ti Elite subs compare to JL?
In the process of building my system...have been planning on going with JL W6v2 subs...cause they're the bomb...but Im going with all TI amps, and the TI 6's with nice crossover unit...so i thought perhaps the Ti subs would make for a good consistant looking set up...how do the Ti elite's compare with JL...
Im a big time JL guy (only subs I've ever had)... what do you all think...the TI's look sick for sure...just looking for input.
Im a big time JL guy (only subs I've ever had)... what do you all think...the TI's look sick for sure...just looking for input.
Stipud's owned a w6v2 before right?
Anyway I've owned a V2, myself....W7, Ti 12 D Elite, and a variety of other subs, Re XXX, Fi BTL, RSD, Orion NT, CV Stroker, RE Sex (hybrid), and some other subs in between. Can't think of them...but these on the list here I would consider the above average subs.
Anyway depending on the sound you want to go for, the w6v2 is a decent sounding sub. Not much for SPL and power.
Personally I replaced my v2 with the 12 d elite and never looked back.
Then went to a W7 from there, wished my 12 d e box was ported...it's sealed, so didnt have the boom I wanted. Plus at the time I was pushing my Tantrum 1200.1 to it...and to be honest my elite wanted MORE power, but it sounded decent at 1200.1, but I can tell it wanted more. I think i might swap some stuff around when I get in the mood to do so, and put the elite in a ported box and play with it w/ my 3000.1 amp....
Anyway I've owned a V2, myself....W7, Ti 12 D Elite, and a variety of other subs, Re XXX, Fi BTL, RSD, Orion NT, CV Stroker, RE Sex (hybrid), and some other subs in between. Can't think of them...but these on the list here I would consider the above average subs.
Anyway depending on the sound you want to go for, the w6v2 is a decent sounding sub. Not much for SPL and power.
Personally I replaced my v2 with the 12 d elite and never looked back.
Then went to a W7 from there, wished my 12 d e box was ported...it's sealed, so didnt have the boom I wanted. Plus at the time I was pushing my Tantrum 1200.1 to it...and to be honest my elite wanted MORE power, but it sounded decent at 1200.1, but I can tell it wanted more. I think i might swap some stuff around when I get in the mood to do so, and put the elite in a ported box and play with it w/ my 3000.1 amp....
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
how much air space do they require for both sealed and ported? trying ot gauge how much space it would take up. I love the look of them but one of those might be too bigg for the space i have in mind to install it...plus with the sub being installed in my suv its right in the car with me, no seat separation like a car, I had 2 w6's ina sealed box powerd by an outlaw that was friggin ridiculously loud in that suv...so Im thinking if the Ti's take up more space, and need a lot more power, they might not be for me, as sick as they may be.
- brenzbmr@sb
- Booty Connoisseur
- Posts: 1610
- Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:49 pm
- Location: as ziggy marley said" on a beach in hawaii"
okay ill sum it up to you
i sold jl w7 and ti elite..
if u want alot of low end and i mean serious low end then the elite is teh woofer to use..4 cubic ft tuned at about 25hz to 30 will give some low end reinforcement .
upper bass will be compromized due to the nature of that sub..
if u want a more neutral box then 2.5 tuned at 33 works really well
if i told u that the elite had more low end then the 13 would u believe me?
well it did but the 13 spanked it in output..
my partner sold his 13 after putting an elite in his car same car same amp but the elite dumped low end better..
now if your looking for more of a balanced sound then go with the dub 7 since the elite will naturally be bottom heavy..
keep in mind that this woofer is not very effecient (ti elite )
but it makes up for it in the low end.
teh jl will play pretty smooth through the band width but lacks the thunder that the elite has....
my choice the elite cause i dont need it very loud but i like low bass and in my lexus (build pics are in installs)
its a fricken beast...i shut down an 18 inch sub with same song...lol
i sold jl w7 and ti elite..
if u want alot of low end and i mean serious low end then the elite is teh woofer to use..4 cubic ft tuned at about 25hz to 30 will give some low end reinforcement .
upper bass will be compromized due to the nature of that sub..
if u want a more neutral box then 2.5 tuned at 33 works really well
if i told u that the elite had more low end then the 13 would u believe me?
well it did but the 13 spanked it in output..
my partner sold his 13 after putting an elite in his car same car same amp but the elite dumped low end better..
now if your looking for more of a balanced sound then go with the dub 7 since the elite will naturally be bottom heavy..
keep in mind that this woofer is not very effecient (ti elite )
but it makes up for it in the low end.
teh jl will play pretty smooth through the band width but lacks the thunder that the elite has....
my choice the elite cause i dont need it very loud but i like low bass and in my lexus (build pics are in installs)
its a fricken beast...i shut down an 18 inch sub with same song...lol
You may have subs in your car........but my doors sound better!
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
thanks for the info...Im definitely going to keep the TI in mind...sounds like a sick sub for sure. I listen to a lot of metal, and some rap so I need a sub that performs well i nthe "upper" ranges, but it has to has some "umph" too so that if some buddies get in I can rock it out too...kinda torn at this point.
The regular Ti subs (non-Elite) have more top end bass, but I always found them a bit boomy. They are pretty awesome for metal though, so if you're dead set on matching, you should be happy with them. If you're more lenient about matching, the RSD comp subs have a similar response to the normal Ti's (maybe a bit deeper), but are cleaner and louder.
I listen to mostly death/grind metal, with a bit of rap and electronic on the side... RSD comp gets my vote hands down.
I listen to mostly death/grind metal, with a bit of rap and electronic on the side... RSD comp gets my vote hands down.
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:

- fuzzysnuggleduck
- Soy Milquetoast
- Posts: 4423
- Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 1:08 pm
- Location: The best place on earth
- Contact:
A few others on the forum have put the RSDs low in their list, based only only on the low price. But until you hear it, you won't know what you're missing.5.9Limited wrote:RSD's huh? Im surpirsed...i guess assumed because they were so affordable that they would compromise sound quality. I think if I decided against the Ti's I'll probably stick with JL's because they've done so well for me in the past..plus I have a guy who works at a custum home/car audio shop that can get me whatever I want at wholesale...so i can get my eclipse head, and my subs dirt cheap compared to retail...whcih has some leverage in the decision making process....
Bdubs and I have compared W6V2's to the plain RSDs, and preferred the PG subs. The plain RSD was also rated in the top 5 subwoofers (along with a bunch of $500+ subs) by one of the mainstream magazines (forget off the top of my head).
http://phoenixphorum.com/12-subwoofer-t ... -vt16.html
The competition subs are even better than the regular ones. Honestly, I think the RSD series is the best speaker line PG has ever put out, and it would be absurd not to consider them based solely on price. Hell, for how little they cost, you've almost got nothing to lose.
The RSD component sets are damn good for the money as well

-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
yeah I've been eyeing the component sets fora whlie...i don't ahve a ton of $$ to work with but am desperate to get started...the crossovers with the components look legit comparing them to toehr brands ...I've mainly looked at MB quarts...again . I've heard a few sets and loved em...but... $$ is the issue for now.
thanks for the info on the RSd's...I guess I should be willing to try something new...right? especially if you all are using them...for the price, your right I have nothing to lose.
thanks for the info on the RSd's...I guess I should be willing to try something new...right? especially if you all are using them...for the price, your right I have nothing to lose.
That and if you REALLY dont like it, the resale value of the comp set is still up there. All the guys at CA, ROE, and other forums are talking wonders about them. The price is right....so people are willing to check them out and such.
I want to check out the RSD Comp Sub. Just havent been able to scrape two nickels together.
I want to check out the RSD Comp Sub. Just havent been able to scrape two nickels together.
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
I agree, ive been running 2 rsdc 10s since they were released, and will NEVER use my diamond d6s again-also, i recently tried the rsd comp set of 6.5s, and i like them better than my ti component set; i know cojones thinks im crazy, but they simply have better output and seem to be sounding better with even more play(woven spider tinsels in the 6.5?)
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
per gkitchings rec. i recently did away with my rear fill 6.5-then again, im constantly switching/changing out-great for the front stage; and i took his advice and hooked my right front mid up out of phase-check out all the cars he did under install-goodbye pics-
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
Im guessing its for time correction and environment... I've been doing alot of research on this lately...
Alpines new CDA-9887 has their new "Imprint" tech that has microphone software capability that will analize the sound from the drivers seat. and auto adjust the timing and frequency response from all speakers, so that everything is dead on perfect to you ear and the exact second. THe headunit runs about $400, plus the Imprint hardware runs and EXTRA $189, plus you need to own a mic and a laptop tha will run the software as well... a bit pricey...
my headunit, the Eclipse CD 7200 mkII has manual time correcting that you can do yourself by ear...or you can go to their website, register your unit, complete aseries of questions about the interior of your ride ( interior dimensions, materials like leather vs. cloth seats etc... ) with some rough measurements for speaker distance from the drivers seat and it will give you settings that you load onto a USB device and input in the headunit. They promise its very accurate, and makes a world of difference when running quality component speakers and high end amps... you have to have an external amp because the MkII has no onboard power.
Its pretty cool what they're doing with this stuff, I remmber my first head unit....an $150 Sony Explode...I bought it becasue it boasted the most watts per channel and it matched my interior.... prob had like a 4 bit processor...if that...my eclipse has a 24bit as do most high end units these days...Apline is even using full 24 bit Burr Brown DAC's...
Alpines new CDA-9887 has their new "Imprint" tech that has microphone software capability that will analize the sound from the drivers seat. and auto adjust the timing and frequency response from all speakers, so that everything is dead on perfect to you ear and the exact second. THe headunit runs about $400, plus the Imprint hardware runs and EXTRA $189, plus you need to own a mic and a laptop tha will run the software as well... a bit pricey...
my headunit, the Eclipse CD 7200 mkII has manual time correcting that you can do yourself by ear...or you can go to their website, register your unit, complete aseries of questions about the interior of your ride ( interior dimensions, materials like leather vs. cloth seats etc... ) with some rough measurements for speaker distance from the drivers seat and it will give you settings that you load onto a USB device and input in the headunit. They promise its very accurate, and makes a world of difference when running quality component speakers and high end amps... you have to have an external amp because the MkII has no onboard power.
Its pretty cool what they're doing with this stuff, I remmber my first head unit....an $150 Sony Explode...I bought it becasue it boasted the most watts per channel and it matched my interior.... prob had like a 4 bit processor...if that...my eclipse has a 24bit as do most high end units these days...Apline is even using full 24 bit Burr Brown DAC's...
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
are they really using the burr-brown? if so, thats a great price; my god back in 96, and i did say 1996, i bought a sony cdx-c90 for 1200, they show them as being made in 98, but a shop owner in northern va had them in 96, and i have the receipt to prove it-anyways amazing, i agree- only thing is, and cojones and i were talking about this recently, peoples ears are different, so, what may sound good to one, may not to another-but gkitching put it 2 me best( when asking for advice)- "talking about sound, is alot like talking about ufos", a good analogy, i think-what he was getting at, is that sometimes a person needs to be there, or in the car, to hear the problem, or to enjoy the amazing sq 

as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
totally agree...Im pretty picky...so when I've had friends with cheap box store amps and subs, and stock coax's all the way around that brag on their systems quality I never get it!! I have friends with ground loops, alternator whines etc that don't even notice or care! crazy! Im always like " you can't hear that??" , but..like you said...beauty is in the ...ear of the beholder I guess...
and yes, Apline really did use burr brown. They'r trying save themselves and push back into the high end market, or even top it. I've always been an alpine, but went with eclipse this time because i was set on a head unit with no onboard power...with no amp, the HU takes less draw devots more power to processing and boasts 3 sets of 8v pre outs..so no need for a line driver..
and yes, Apline really did use burr brown. They'r trying save themselves and push back into the high end market, or even top it. I've always been an alpine, but went with eclipse this time because i was set on a head unit with no onboard power...with no amp, the HU takes less draw devots more power to processing and boasts 3 sets of 8v pre outs..so no need for a line driver..
I feel that if you can find a Ti Elite in good shape and can afford it, grab it. 

SSAudio.com ~ Dcon / Icon / Xcon / Zcon ~
Caraudio-forum.com
HomeAudioForum.net
PG Stash: Xenon 1200.1 & 200.4, Bass Cube, RCA's
Caraudio-forum.com
HomeAudioForum.net
PG Stash: Xenon 1200.1 & 200.4, Bass Cube, RCA's
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:57 pm
- Location: Vermont
- Contact:
its def. still a possibility...right now my current project is going to go in one fo two directions...
if the $$ comes through now, I'll do it the way I want, with all Ti amps, subs and front components...so that its all set up together, all matching, with the build plan I have to house the amps and subs, it'll look really nice.
or,, if the $$ aint happenin, Im gonna ge the ball rolling to get a system in asap, then piece by piece adapt it to what i want. Im sooo desperate to get something in this jeep... Im thinkin the RSD front components and a couple of the RSD comp subs would bea great start from what all the guys are saying about them. then swap em out if i want to change it all later...
if the $$ comes through now, I'll do it the way I want, with all Ti amps, subs and front components...so that its all set up together, all matching, with the build plan I have to house the amps and subs, it'll look really nice.
or,, if the $$ aint happenin, Im gonna ge the ball rolling to get a system in asap, then piece by piece adapt it to what i want. Im sooo desperate to get something in this jeep... Im thinkin the RSD front components and a couple of the RSD comp subs would bea great start from what all the guys are saying about them. then swap em out if i want to change it all later...