pics of tri led replacement/600.2 rail caps-

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:07 pm

drivingdadevil · Post by **drivingdadevil** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:06 pm

Hey Christian, I was wondering where you bought your replacement caps from. I have a M 44 and I want to go ahead and change the caps out. Thanks in advance.

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:13 pm

I got them from Newark- i think their main hq is outta illinois, but whenever i order they ship ups ground from south carolina, and i see in 2 days after(ie-order monday, here on wednesday), their site is www.newark.com, 1st time i ordered from them they even cod( was low on funds at the time), but ups man was like " u cant give me cash_write a check"-ive ordered output transistors, power caps, rail caps, no issues!!! even the blue leds for ti, all in stock-brands are illinois capacitor, cornell dublier, vishay, nichicon, panasonic( but seems nic, and panasonic are SPECIAL order) ive used the illinois capacitor with no issues, and they were the standard rail caps on the old zx series- white zx450, zx350, not zxti

TiEcs · Post by **TiEcs** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 9:25 am

Somewhere on the forum I read (but can't find it anymore) that it is possible to buy those led's from PG for +/- 10$/pc

I need 2 of those. 1 for zx475ti and 600.2 (but I think they are the same)
Who is willing to buy them for me, and ship them to Belgium or mhyde71 ??

Thanks

Post by **mhyde71** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:30 am

TiEcs wrote:Somewhere on the forum I read (but can't find it anymore) that it is possible to buy those led's from PG for +/- 10$/pc

I need 2 of those. 1 for zx475ti and 600.2 (but I think they are the same)
Who is willing to buy them for me, and ship them to Belgium or mhyde71 ??

Thanks

yes they do have some leds I just got one or two myself... from them... and have an order that is getting prepared now with PG for some spare parts.. I can ask mat to include a couple LED's if you would like TiECS

TiEcs · Post by **TiEcs** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:31 pm

That would be great mhyde71.
But what I ment was the full board with 3 led's mounted on it.

As I never soldered, it is more easy for me to have it completely like shown on the first picture.

Is that possible?

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 3:39 am

i was told they no longer had the leds? well i got the leds directly from newark , they have the exact ones

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 3:58 pm

I just noticed that one of the leds on my octane is smashed. I wanted to install it this week and would like to try and repair it before I install it. What value led do they use? I can try a couple of locations in the phoenix area to see if there are any.

Post by **mhyde71** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:00 pm

As for LEDS well this is a tech issue, The LEDS PG uses have a Specific voltage drop across them and super brite LEDS often have a much higher drop. IIRC you can buy LEDS from PG for about $3.00 each (it is what it is) but unless you do a voltage drop test to get the number and then you must pretest each LED so it matches the Voltage drop. The LEDS serve a purpose in the circuitry and its is voltage drop relevant...

Post by **mhyde71** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:02 pm

i was thinking (ya know that doesnt really answer your question)... so they (i believe they are 3mm. definately not the 5mm's

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:29 pm

if u check out newark.com, they are part number 40c1898; ive replaced 3-4 sets already, 3 boards burnt in for 10-12 hours no issues, and yes they are size T1 3mm; traditionally T1 refers to 5mm size, those are too large, and they are $1.10 from newark, i would imagine u can pick them up from mouser, or digikey as well-
also, there were 2 different boards (pcb for the leds pg used, they both are very similiar, except they reversed the anode, and cathode, think of it as posi, and negative, and, i know my pic shows me using the wire braid, however an actual desolder iron works the best, will suck up the old solder no problems(10 bux from radio shack), and wont damage the metal sil or via pads,(whatever they are called)
if ur not sure which one is the catohe, and the anode, when u get the old solder off, without removing the silver pads, u will notice one side is square(thats where the longer cathode(think of it as posi, solders too, the anode side solders to the circular pad; just like on the capictors round
silver pad is negative on the boards, and square are the positive-hope this helps-and I would suggest to go ahead and replace all three at the same time;once u get ur cover off, youll see there are only 2 phillips #2 screws holding the led board down-
the newark 40c1898 is 250ucd for luminosity, forward current 20ma, and forward voltage 3.8v-once again ive had no issues with the leds ive replaced with these part numbers-good luck

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:35 pm

I forgot to add, the leds can only handle heat for all of 5 seconds!!!! So please make sure ur very patient, efficent, and quick! (mayb try a few test runs on something else)A techinique i devised was I allowed the solder to build up on my iron, almost to a drip , then allowed it to "drip" onto the area that made the connection.

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:54 pm

if u google led it states when soldering to a pcb, the anode solders to round pad-as a positive(i thinkof it as negative, and the longer lead of the led as cathode is considered more of a negative( i just have reversed it in mind to remember; usually im replacing capacitors on the board, and with caps, the square silver area is positive, circular silver area is negative) I know stipud is gonna tell me Im wrong, so i figured i better doublecheck-if any1s totally confused, SORRY! and contact me, or google led, and scroll down on wikipedia and it will tell you-

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:56 pm

terminal: anode (A) cathode (K)
leads: long short
exterior: round flat
interior: small large
wiring: red black
*marking: none stripe
*pin: 1 2
*PCB: round square
*Die placement: connector cup

Post by **mhyde71** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:58 pm

thedeal7235 wrote:I forgot to add, the leds can only handle heat for all of 5 seconds!!!! So please make sure ur very patient, efficent, and quick! (mayb try a few test runs on something else)A techinique i devised was I allowed the solder to build up on my iron, almost to a drip , then allowed it to "drip" onto the area that made the connection.

that's funny.. I try to force my self nevr to fill/dab iron over the board.. - good idea to do so over the table.

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:09 pm

I will order the leds I guess then. I was pissed as hell when I happen to notice that one of them looked different, looked like it got smashed somehow. I started to make the frame for the amp rack today and I already have the spot ready for it to mount.

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:10 pm

whats up with changing the caps? what does that get ya?

fordtough1 · Post by **fordtough1** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:17 pm

ttocs wrote:whats up with changing the caps? what does that get ya?

It gets you an amp that won't catch fire.

All electolytic caps will start to leak over time and cause your favorite amp to go up in flames. It's a good idea to replace them if your amp is getting up there in age..

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:20 pm

fordtough1 wrote:
ttocs wrote:whats up with changing the caps? what does that get ya?
It gets you an amp that won't catch fire.

All electolytic caps will start to leak over time and cause your favorite amp to go up in flames. It's a good idea to replace them if your amp is getting up there in age..

exactly, fordtough1, I usually leave them alone, UNLESS i see a buldge, that amp pictured, the pics i took dont really show how bad the original rail caps really were-they were peaking like the top of a mountain!; worst id ever seen, my zx350 were bad, yet my zx450 of same age, still look totally new;luckily ive never had an amp catch fire, but not worth the risk-i read some old posts where people said toleave them alone(rail caps), but after 10 +years WORTH IT, imho-

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:21 pm

oh gotcha. I went to an electronics technical school so I have see what happens when they pop. I was not sure if there was some sort of gain as far as power wise. My amp has never seen power yet and has always been stored in a climate controled environment.

I am going to order those leds tomorrow then. Do you think there will be any big differences or a big deal on an LE octane amp? There is only one set of tri-leds to replace but I will do all 3.

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:24 pm

mayb ask roland here, but i believe they stated the le octane leds were superbright, not sure if they were the same as the reg. tis or not-if my le octane leds go out, im gonna use these same ones, they look pretty bright to me

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:30 pm

i got an led schematic ill posts

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:33 pm

hope this helps, like i said before, they made 2 different pcb, so it may be reversed

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 7:42 am

there is no way I am replacing all the caps in my amp now that I think about it. Thanks for your help fellas.

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 7:59 am

ttocs wrote:there is no way I am replacing all the caps in my amp now that I think about it. Thanks for your help fellas.

in the octane LE?? yeah I hear yeah.. but it might be okay, as it is ZX era and not quite as old as m and ms series gear... but i'm willing to assist if I can / you would like... I'd be happy to change out the caps for you at cost of materials and nominal labor costs... but sounds as though you can do it just the same yourself. just the time and effort involved that is discouraging you... i guess.