pics of tri led replacement/600.2 rail caps-
- thedeal7235
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pics of tri led replacement/600.2 rail caps-
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
- drivingdadevil
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- thedeal7235
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I got them from Newark- i think their main hq is outta illinois, but whenever i order they ship ups ground from south carolina, and i see in 2 days after(ie-order monday, here on wednesday), their site is www.newark.com, 1st time i ordered from them they even cod( was low on funds at the time), but ups man was like " u cant give me cash_write a check"-ive ordered output transistors, power caps, rail caps, no issues!!! even the blue leds for ti, all in stock-brands are illinois capacitor, cornell dublier, vishay, nichicon, panasonic( but seems nic, and panasonic are SPECIAL order) ive used the illinois capacitor with no issues, and they were the standard rail caps on the old zx series- white zx450, zx350, not zxti
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
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yes they do have some leds I just got one or two myself... from them... and have an order that is getting prepared now with PG for some spare parts.. I can ask mat to include a couple LED's if you would like TiECSTiEcs wrote:Somewhere on the forum I read (but can't find it anymore) that it is possible to buy those led's from PG for +/- 10$/pc
I need 2 of those. 1 for zx475ti and 600.2 (but I think they are the same)
Who is willing to buy them for me, and ship them to Belgium or mhyde71 ??
Thanks
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- thedeal7235
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- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
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As for LEDS well this is a tech issue, The LEDS PG uses have a Specific voltage drop across them and super brite LEDS often have a much higher drop. IIRC you can buy LEDS from PG for about $3.00 each (it is what it is) but unless you do a voltage drop test to get the number and then you must pretest each LED so it matches the Voltage drop. The LEDS serve a purpose in the circuitry and its is voltage drop relevant...
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- thedeal7235
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if u check out newark.com, they are part number 40c1898; ive replaced 3-4 sets already, 3 boards burnt in for 10-12 hours no issues, and yes they are size T1 3mm; traditionally T1 refers to 5mm size, those are too large, and they are $1.10 from newark, i would imagine u can pick them up from mouser, or digikey as well-
also, there were 2 different boards (pcb for the leds pg used, they both are very similiar, except they reversed the anode, and cathode, think of it as posi, and negative, and, i know my pic shows me using the wire braid, however an actual desolder iron works the best, will suck up the old solder no problems(10 bux from radio shack), and wont damage the metal sil or via pads,(whatever they are called)
if ur not sure which one is the catohe, and the anode, when u get the old solder off, without removing the silver pads, u will notice one side is square(thats where the longer cathode(think of it as posi, solders too, the anode side solders to the circular pad; just like on the capictors round
silver pad is negative on the boards, and square are the positive-hope this helps-and I would suggest to go ahead and replace all three at the same time;once u get ur cover off, youll see there are only 2 phillips #2 screws holding the led board down-
the newark 40c1898 is 250ucd for luminosity, forward current 20ma, and forward voltage 3.8v-once again ive had no issues with the leds ive replaced with these part numbers-good luck
also, there were 2 different boards (pcb for the leds pg used, they both are very similiar, except they reversed the anode, and cathode, think of it as posi, and negative, and, i know my pic shows me using the wire braid, however an actual desolder iron works the best, will suck up the old solder no problems(10 bux from radio shack), and wont damage the metal sil or via pads,(whatever they are called)
if ur not sure which one is the catohe, and the anode, when u get the old solder off, without removing the silver pads, u will notice one side is square(thats where the longer cathode(think of it as posi, solders too, the anode side solders to the circular pad; just like on the capictors round
silver pad is negative on the boards, and square are the positive-hope this helps-and I would suggest to go ahead and replace all three at the same time;once u get ur cover off, youll see there are only 2 phillips #2 screws holding the led board down-
the newark 40c1898 is 250ucd for luminosity, forward current 20ma, and forward voltage 3.8v-once again ive had no issues with the leds ive replaced with these part numbers-good luck
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
- thedeal7235
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I forgot to add, the leds can only handle heat for all of 5 seconds!!!! So please make sure ur very patient, efficent, and quick! (mayb try a few test runs on something else)A techinique i devised was I allowed the solder to build up on my iron, almost to a drip , then allowed it to "drip" onto the area that made the connection.
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
- thedeal7235
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if u google led it states when soldering to a pcb, the anode solders to round pad-as a positive(i thinkof it as negative, and the longer lead of the led as cathode is considered more of a negative( i just have reversed it in mind to remember; usually im replacing capacitors on the board, and with caps, the square silver area is positive, circular silver area is negative) I know stipud is gonna tell me Im wrong, so i figured i better doublecheck-if any1s totally confused, SORRY! and contact me, or google led, and scroll down on wikipedia and it will tell you-
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
- thedeal7235
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- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
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that's funny.. I try to force my self nevr to fill/dab iron over the board.. - good idea to do so over the table.thedeal7235 wrote:I forgot to add, the leds can only handle heat for all of 5 seconds!!!! So please make sure ur very patient, efficent, and quick! (mayb try a few test runs on something else)A techinique i devised was I allowed the solder to build up on my iron, almost to a drip , then allowed it to "drip" onto the area that made the connection.
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- fordtough1
- Twisted's Boyfriend
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- thedeal7235
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exactly, fordtough1, I usually leave them alone, UNLESS i see a buldge, that amp pictured, the pics i took dont really show how bad the original rail caps really were-they were peaking like the top of a mountain!; worst id ever seen, my zx350 were bad, yet my zx450 of same age, still look totally new;luckily ive never had an amp catch fire, but not worth the risk-i read some old posts where people said toleave them alone(rail caps), but after 10 +years WORTH IT, imho-fordtough1 wrote:It gets you an amp that won't catch fire.ttocs wrote:whats up with changing the caps? what does that get ya?
All electolytic caps will start to leak over time and cause your favorite amp to go up in flames. It's a good idea to replace them if your amp is getting up there in age..
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
oh gotcha. I went to an electronics technical school so I have see what happens when they pop. I was not sure if there was some sort of gain as far as power wise. My amp has never seen power yet and has always been stored in a climate controled environment.
I am going to order those leds tomorrow then. Do you think there will be any big differences or a big deal on an LE octane amp? There is only one set of tri-leds to replace but I will do all 3.
I am going to order those leds tomorrow then. Do you think there will be any big differences or a big deal on an LE octane amp? There is only one set of tri-leds to replace but I will do all 3.
- thedeal7235
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- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
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- thedeal7235
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- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
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in the octane LE?? yeah I hear yeah.. but it might be okay, as it is ZX era and not quite as old as m and ms series gear... but i'm willing to assist if I can / you would like... I'd be happy to change out the caps for you at cost of materials and nominal labor costs... but sounds as though you can do it just the same yourself. just the time and effort involved that is discouraging you... i guess.ttocs wrote:there is no way I am replacing all the caps in my amp now that I think about it. Thanks for your help fellas.
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