Phoenix Gold Phorum

I have this 2 amp now, and I want to get into active setup.
I have done the BIG 3 wiring.

The problem I'm facing is that my alternator is rated at 90amp.
My ICE installer told me that I would need to upgrade my Alternator to a bigger Amp output to support this 2 amps.

Is this true?
Furthermore, I can see that the 200.4 comes with 2sets of 4 gauge inputs. Do I need to use both power inputs?
Furthermore he stated since I'll be needing 3sets of 4 gauge, I might be needing a second battery as well.

If I'm into pure SQ, at what Ohm should I use? Would it 4 ohm?
What about the monoblock?, would I need it to be in 4Ohm too?

Thanks.

those amps will use the power from your alternator is rated at 90amp.
but I know allot of people that can use them with out changing it
my wife car 98 vw golf has a jl 500/1 and a 300/4 they are rated at 90 amp together peak
my wife only has a 90 amp alt and her lights never dim ever with the heater on?? they have been running for 3 years zero problems, no cap
she does have a red top gel cell

icic...

So I better get a yellow top then as I know it's more for ICE setup.
Thanks.

I use an x1200.1 and an x200.2 with the stock 70 amp alternator in my car with no problems. Of course I'm not trying to win SPL competitions with it, but it sounds good...

fordtough1 wrote:I use an x1200.1 and an x200.2 with the stock 70 amp alternator in my car with no problems. Of course I'm not trying to win SPL competitions with it, but it sounds good...

On idle, does the sound seems ok?, I mean do you need to drive the alternator harder in order to get the proper sound quality?
Do you get dimming lights when the bass hit high while on idle?

I havent had any dimming light problems, and it sounds good, but I don't idle much either, it's my daily driver. It gets driven mostly at highway speeds. I imagine that at extended idle it would be a problem.

Ic. Does the 1200.1 have 2 power input? Do you use both of them?

no

But i thought the manual stated that it should be used to connect to another amplifier?
It's used for extra power needed to feed into the amp.

if you have power and ground block you need to do it

I'm going to have 1/0 gauge wire connected to the battery at the front, and pull it all the way to the back into a fused distributor block. From here 3sets of 4 gauge will be used to power up these 2 amps. 2sets to the X200.4, while the 1 set to the X600.1

Both amps groundings will be grounded to a ground distributor block, which will then be grounded down to the chassis.

I have one unit of 4 farad, which will be used for X600.1, while another unit of 2 farad for the X200.4.

I hope to power up to 4 ohm for Active SQ setup.
I have the RockFord Fosgate 3Sixty.2 for RTA.

I hope my alternator can take all this.

I don't use both sets of inputs on mine, but once again I'm not trying to be super loud most of the time.

I would think the stock alternator would be fine unless you are doing alot of sitting with the car idling, such as at car shows or something with the volume turned up loud. For normal everyday levels it should be ok.

kg1961 wrote:no
they make it so you can link other amp

NO

NO

NO

NO

NO

they ARE because if you run it at 2ohms stereo or lower the 200.4 will need the extra current a second 4awg can provide.


if you unit 4ohms stereo, you should be ok.

you could even wire a capacitor with the second set of terminals

Absolutely DO NOT use the second set of terminals to distribute power to another amp.

who told you that?

So in other words, for purely SQ setup, I would need 4 ohm, right?

Since I have 2 farad Cap, I would just add it to second set of terminal of the X200.4 even though it might be not be used too often unlike in a SPL setup.

Well, my kind of setup mentioned earlier, would be ok, if the car is on the move, but if I'm too idle for too long it may affect the sound quality then, most probably.

Since you have 1/0 gauge running to the back of the car and then splitting down to 4 gauge, wiring one terminal should be fine. Then you can wire your 2 farad cap to the second terminal. The cap should help with AC voltage ripple and give you better sound quality.

Yup, that's wat I intend to do on the first place.

But when the ICE installer told me that there's a possibility I would need to get a larger alternator due to the fact the Xenons are power hungry, made me worry shit.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback, will stick the original idea, but will upgrade the Battery to Yellow top first.

Thanks guys.

I have the same 2 amps in my car, also in an SQ setup.

I have done the big 3 upgrade, as well as upgrading my factory alternator to about double it's capacity (now 110A).

I've also run 2G cabling from the battery to the trunk, and then used a fused Audison distro block to split the power cable between 2 x 4G power cable to the 2 seperate amps. I'm also only using the single input on the 200.4

the 200.4 channels are all wired at 4ohm, and the 600.1 is wired at 1ohm.

Works fine for me.

My next power upgrade will be an Optima Yellow top, when the current (pardon the pun ) battery eventually goes to battery heaven.

MazdaFan wrote:I have the same 2 amps in my car, also in an SQ setup.

I have done the big 3 upgrade, as well as upgrading my factory alternator to about double it's capacity (now 110A).

I've also run 2G cabling from the battery to the trunk, and then used a fused Audison distro block to split the power cable between 2 x 4G power cable to the 2 seperate amps. I'm also only using the single input on the 200.4

the 200.4 channels are all wired at 4ohm, and the 600.1 is wired at 1ohm.

Works fine for me.

My next power upgrade will be an Optima Yellow top, when the current (pardon the pun ) battery eventually goes to battery heaven.

Hi,

Was it really necessary for you to upgrade the alternator? Did you tried on your stock alternator with your current ICE setup before upgrading it, if so, how was it?
What was your stock alternator capacity?

Was there a loss of car performance inn terms of pickup and top speed due to the bigger alternator?

Thanks.

My stock alternator was 55A, and it did fine with only the X200.4 on it. The lights used to dim a little when the volume was cranked up, but nothing too serious. I upgraded the alternator because 55A to me didn't seem like much if I planned on running multiple amplifiers, especially one being a power hungry monoblock.

I haven't noticed any changes in the car's performance as far as top end etc., but then again, I'm not really into speed.

Ok, thanks for quick reply. So I guess I'll go for the Yellow Top first.
If the ICE affects my overall car after the Yellow Top, then I'll have to upgrade the Alternator.

ICE=????
Me=brainfart

smgreen20 wrote:ICE=????
Me=brainfart

Last time I checked

ICE = In Car Entertainment

When I think ICE, I think of the new technology ICE that Eclipse and one other car audio company came out w/on some of their lines.

i think ICE is a "everywhere thats not USA term"

means in car electronics, or entertainment.