Phoenix Gold Phorum

Wassup everyone. Still getting everything together for my daily driver install. Woofersetc.com has RSD65cs's going for 59.99+9.99 shipping and after all the rave reviews I am really considering them. Awesome money Anyway my POS work car is a 90' toyota camry and as some of you might know of the old toyotas they are gay about front speaker size and location. My old supra had 3.5's up high in the doors. This camry has 4.5's mid dash aiming at your knees WTF are they thinking anyway. Know kick room as I am a full grown honkey. 6'2" bout 220. So I guess I am going for my first attempt at fiberglass. Car is as good as any for first try as it is a 400 dollar road warrior. So the doors dont have anything but pockets down low and forward so they shouldnt be too hard. I just need some know how on the subject as Ive never seen doors built. Of course they will be deadened properly but do I attempt to seal the door completely or just seal the front with matting and fiberglass it in so the front is a sealed baffle and the door is practically an IB. Dont think I can seal it completely so I dunno. Also has anyone ever built a mount for the RSD comps that align the tweeter like a coaxial. Thanks everyone for all the help. BTW I have an IDmax that will be in a ported box tuned to 28Hz running on a x1200.1. Will the RSD's be able to keep up and blend well at about 63Hz because some of you may know that the IDmax is no star above 50 Hz. Should I spend the extra money on dedicated midbass drivers and a used set of horns. Or possibly go with a pair of RSDc woofers. The highs will be running active on a pair of xs2300s if i can work out the XO's. I have a eq215x but i think the high pass only goes up to 600hz. Not high enough for even high level horns and not even close to usable for a tweet. Any ideas? So glad my friend turned me onto this site you guys are like family.

Pix of the nakid door would help a bit to get a good visual. Something like this doesn't have to be very pretty cuz it'll be hidden in the door but you'll still have to make sure it's not getting in the way of the workings of the door.
As far as mounting them like a coax.......just buy a set of coax. I love the way mine sound. Though they aren't as nice a the components, they serve their purpose well.

The main question is..... How much work do ya want to put into this car....... If it were me, I'd run each side with a 2300 passively first just to see how it sounds. Another thing to mention is that the car is gonna require alotta deadening due to the fact that it's a tin can like my civic.

Food for thought................

I thought about running coaxials but if i did that i would consider a 6x9 or something because I want as much output as possible and I also figured the comps would have better midbass response and power handling. I will post pics of the doors tonight or tommorow. My car is at the local watering hole as I had to get a ride back home last night. Anywho, I was planning on running one xs2300 first anyway because the other one i have is blowing fuses I was planning on deadening the front doors and the whole trunk really well and if it still rattles fuckit. I cant justify spending 2 grand on a 400 dollar car.

my buddy has some boston acoustics 6x9 with the neo magnets that would probably mount pretty easy.

waynehead wrote:Wassup everyone. Still getting everything together for my daily driver install. Woofersetc.com has RSD65cs's going for 59.99+9.99 shipping and after all the rave reviews I am really considering them. Awesome money Anyway my POS work car is a 90' toyota camry and as some of you might know of the old toyotas they are gay about front speaker size and location. My old supra had 3.5's up high in the doors. This camry has 4.5's mid dash aiming at your knees WTF are they thinking anyway. Know kick room as I am a full grown honkey. 6'2" bout 220. So I guess I am going for my first attempt at fiberglass. Car is as good as any for first try as it is a 400 dollar road warrior. So the doors dont have anything but pockets down low and forward so they shouldnt be too hard. I just need some know how on the subject as Ive never seen doors built. Of course they will be deadened properly but do I attempt to seal the door completely or just seal the front with matting and fiberglass it in so the front is a sealed baffle and the door is practically an IB. Dont think I can seal it completely so I dunno. Also has anyone ever built a mount for the RSD comps that align the tweeter like a coaxial. Thanks everyone for all the help. BTW I have an IDmax that will be in a ported box tuned to 28Hz running on a x1200.1. Will the RSD's be able to keep up and blend well at about 63Hz because some of you may know that the IDmax is no star above 50 Hz. Should I spend the extra money on dedicated midbass drivers and a used set of horns. Or possibly go with a pair of RSDc woofers. The highs will be running active on a pair of xs2300s if i can work out the XO's. I have a eq215x but i think the high pass only goes up to 600hz. Not high enough for even high level horns and not even close to usable for a tweet. Any ideas? So glad my friend turned me onto this site you guys are like family.

the grills that come with the rsd comp set are VERY easy to mod slightly to hold the tweeter. this is your best/easiest bet IMO. they have a "pg" logo ring in the middle that can be popped out and then replaced with the tweet with minimal work/trimming

if you are running them active in a well dampened enclosure, i don't think they will have any problem blending with the ID. at all.

If you're not that into doing allot of work on a 'beater', you could always use a universal style Q-form and attach it to your door.


http://www.mainstreet-audio.com/subwoof ... forms.html

gkitching wrote:If you're not that into doing allot of work on a 'beater', you could always use a universal style Q-form and attach it to your door.


http://www.mainstreet-audio.com/subwoof ... forms.html

Thats not too bad an idea. Will the rsdcomps perform well in that little space in the midbass department? I assumed the space of the door would do well but if any of you have experience with them in kicks i would seriously consider slightly modding something and fastening to the door. hmmmm I dont know if i mentioned before but i could care less what it looks like. Like if I was going to fiberglass it i would probably leave it unfinished. It is a gold/tan 90' camry with tan interior. I am sitting here trying to get the desire to rip my door panel off and take pictures. Alright Im off.

You could always open up the door panel behind the Q-form and allow them to vent into the door. IB style. May give you some extra mounting depth as well.

Do you have electric windows or 'cranks'? Ya wouldn't want to bust your knuckles on one every time you roll your window down

Yeah you are def on to something. I just took some pics and have no idea how to post them up. Ima try to get these up. windows are elelctric and it looks like everything is out of the way.

Pls post 2 pics....

1. Door card / Door trim / Door panel (whatever you want to call it)

2. Bare door with trim removed.

That way we should be able to give you some more ideas which may save you busting out the FG.

Here dey is

Nice. Looks like the pockets are a separate, detachable piece. Probably held on with plastic weld points that can be melted off with a soldering iron. Freeing up that part of the door for something. Maybe even just some wood rings for the mid. Enough to give the depth needed. Then maybe flush mount the tweeter in the top of the door beside the release handle.

Yeah I guess fiberglass isnt really needed. Looks like just some dynamat to seal the door up and some minor fabbing with some wood spacers would probably suffice. So in a couple weeks when i have the money i will get started. I was planning on doing it this week but i got talked into buying a x200.4. Shucks

Oh dude that brings me back to my 1985 Corolla... I've looked at that bronze sheet metal for ages and ages. Did so many installs in that bugger.

I also had a storage bin in the same area, but the rest of the lower door was flat. I took it off and reupholstered the door so that I could flush mount some components at the front. The shape of the door makes it a huge pain in the ass to get all your screws into metal.

I just cut a hole in the panel right where the forwardmost hole in the door's sheetmetal is. Then I screwed the speaker down through that hole. Done!! It leaked midbass like a seive; there was seriously nothing below 200Hz. It didn't matter though, cuz it was the 'Rolla dammit

I wish I still had pics of it... they went bye-bye when PG shut down their forum

God what I wouldn't give to get those pics back.