Wiring (2) V10d's with V752
Wiring (2) V10d's with V752
I got confused with the wiring for these subs so I thought I'd just ask experts here.
I'm using the V752 and currently wired them for single because I didn't pay attention. I looked at the diagram for the subs and it shows 1 out negative (amp) to negatives (2) of one sub then run the positives (2) of the sub to the opposite negatives of other sub. The same with the 1 out positive of amp to (2) positives of one sub to complete the wiring.
Do you wire two negatives together at the amp into one spot and the same for the positives?
I tried this and it didn't seem to make a difference. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
I'm using the V752 and currently wired them for single because I didn't pay attention. I looked at the diagram for the subs and it shows 1 out negative (amp) to negatives (2) of one sub then run the positives (2) of the sub to the opposite negatives of other sub. The same with the 1 out positive of amp to (2) positives of one sub to complete the wiring.
Do you wire two negatives together at the amp into one spot and the same for the positives?
I tried this and it didn't seem to make a difference. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
Last edited by Irongoats on Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- waynehead
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If you are going for a 8 ohm stereo load from what you are saying, Run a wire from the pos of one voice coil of sub 1` and the neg from the other vc on sub 1 and run them to one channel on your amp. Then connect the pos and neg of the two vc of sub 1. Repeat these steps on sub 2 to the other channel of the amp. If you are bridging both subs on the rear channles of them amp for a 4 ohm mono load wire the subs the same way as above but run both set of wires off of the same terminals of the amp. If neither of these setups is what you are trying to do let me know.
We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
I'm trying to bridge them to get better bass response. I took the two negatives and put them in the R- and the two positives in the L+.
Looking at this photo (second page Dual) you can see they show one of each coming from the amp and that part has me confused. They took both negatives and put them in one negative post and the same for the positive. Just trying to make sure that's the way to go.
Looking at this photo (second page Dual) you can see they show one of each coming from the amp and that part has me confused. They took both negatives and put them in one negative post and the same for the positive. Just trying to make sure that's the way to go.
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- Ryval Sub Wiring 6_5_07.pdf
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- waynehead
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Sounds like you got it. My buddy is trying out the ryval line in his truck. He is runnin comps in the front off a v752, coax in the rear doors off deck power, and later on a sub under the seat off another v752. Up to this point all we have in are the coax's on deck power but I have to say I was super impressed. I really cant wait to here the comps on amp power. Are you getting decent bass response. Is it enough to blend well with your highs? What kinda stereo do you have going on if you dont mind me asking.
We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
I thought I'd get better bass response then the standard way of hooking them up but it sounded the same to me. I'm running a Panasonic DVD DD in my Crew Cab with comps in the front doors, RSD's rear doors all powered off of V754/V752 with a Bass Cube. It sounds great but I wanted a little more bass and I thought the wiring was all wrong and I wasn't taking advantage of the Dual Voice coil on them the way I had them wired.
- waynehead
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Being that you have two dvc subs your only options are 1, 4, or 8 ohm configuration. Im not sure if those amps can run 2ohm mono, Im sure they arent made for 1 ohm mono. You could probably get alittle bit more volume, possibly not even notciable, from using one sub wired to 2 ohms but you will loss alittle sq. It will be drawing more current through your amp and requiring one sub to make the output so I wouldnt advice it. I dont know a lot about the ryval woofers but you could possibly port them. That would be a noticable difference 

We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
- waynehead
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Then you can either wire the subs the way I told you earlier inside the box then run pos and neg from each terminal on the box to the amp or wire them like the pg diagram and take the pos of one terminal and the neg of the other and take it to wht amp then connect the two terminals from the pos and neg that arent going to the amp. I hope that makes sense.Irongoats wrote:Yes, the subs are separated in the box by a wall if you will built into it from the manufacturer.
We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
- waynehead
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the first two pics are the way described the second two are pg's. Both will end up in a 4 ohm load. sorry they suck im on a laptop.
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- What pg is describing
- Speaker1.jpg (17.94 KiB) Viewed 5810 times
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- Wire3.jpg (21.53 KiB) Viewed 5810 times
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- The way I usually do it.
- Speaker2.jpg (24.94 KiB) Viewed 5810 times
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- The way I usually do it
- Wire2.jpg (19.7 KiB) Viewed 5810 times
We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
- waynehead
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lol i should have just searched like I thought instead of taking a ugly shit on the forum lol. sorry stipud. anyway check this out. http://www.rodinaudio.com/pgMobile/pdf/ ... lVoice.pdf
We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
With that amp, you can either run the subs at 2 ohm stereo, or 4 ohms bridged. Personally I would prefer the stereo route, as you don't get any bridging distortion that way. This would work well since your box is divided... if it wasn't, you would have to go bridged.
Parallel wiring is + to VC1+, - to VC1-, and VC1+ to VC2+, VC1- to VC2-
Series wiring is + to VC1+, - to VC2-, and VC1- to VC2+
Wiring the subs in series would get you 8 ohms, then connecting them both in parallel gives you a 4 ohm single load. In this case you want to do option 1, then connect it to the bridged channels of the amplifier:
http://www.rodinaudio.com/pgMobile/pdf/ ... lVoice.pdf
Wiring the subs in parallel would give you 2 ohms, so you can connect each one to a separate amp channel (one left, one right). This gives the same power as the bridged load, since a 4 ohm bridged load is really 2 ohm stereo (8 ohm bridged = 4 ohm stereo, etc). So you will want to do the parallel wiring, and run a wire from each sub to a separate channel on your amp:
http://www.rodinaudio.com/pgMobile/pdf/ ... lVoice.pdf
Also Wayne, the way you "usually do it" isn't the best idea...
You can run voicecoils in series, but you should always avoid running subs in series. What happens is the second sub will get varying power from the first, due to its impedance, so they won't play evenly. Running subs in parallel ensures the power is split evenly between the two subs. Voicecoils on the other hand are designed to be run in series, since it simply makes your dual VC a single.
Parallel wiring is + to VC1+, - to VC1-, and VC1+ to VC2+, VC1- to VC2-
Series wiring is + to VC1+, - to VC2-, and VC1- to VC2+
Wiring the subs in series would get you 8 ohms, then connecting them both in parallel gives you a 4 ohm single load. In this case you want to do option 1, then connect it to the bridged channels of the amplifier:
http://www.rodinaudio.com/pgMobile/pdf/ ... lVoice.pdf
Wiring the subs in parallel would give you 2 ohms, so you can connect each one to a separate amp channel (one left, one right). This gives the same power as the bridged load, since a 4 ohm bridged load is really 2 ohm stereo (8 ohm bridged = 4 ohm stereo, etc). So you will want to do the parallel wiring, and run a wire from each sub to a separate channel on your amp:
http://www.rodinaudio.com/pgMobile/pdf/ ... lVoice.pdf
Also Wayne, the way you "usually do it" isn't the best idea...
You can run voicecoils in series, but you should always avoid running subs in series. What happens is the second sub will get varying power from the first, due to its impedance, so they won't play evenly. Running subs in parallel ensures the power is split evenly between the two subs. Voicecoils on the other hand are designed to be run in series, since it simply makes your dual VC a single.
- waynehead
- No, you're a towel.
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- Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:26 am
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Yeah that isnt the way I usually do it lol. I, looking at the diagram he had of wiring parllel and thought thats what they were doing, and tryed to explain. Then in trying to get all those drawRings in the right order I mislabled them. Anyway, that was something I didnt know because I have ran to SVC woofers to run an 8ohm load before. I had a party and my wimpy panansonic with the 7 inch "bass" driver didnt get the job done so I hooked up a couple of generic subs to it. Oops. Anyway, truth be told I usually dont mess with multiple drivers, I am a one sub kinda guy
Thank you stipud

We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
All this info still doesn't properly explain how one would utilize the outputs of the amp in layman's term.
As you know the amp has a L+L-, R+ R- and they show on the diagrams one wire feeding to one positive and one negative. The rookie in me says to take the speaker wire which has two ends combining them to one spot on the amp but there's L+ and R+. I'm probably confusing myself, haha. But you can see how one would look at it and say where'd all the wires go if there's two ends on the amp.
As you know the amp has a L+L-, R+ R- and they show on the diagrams one wire feeding to one positive and one negative. The rookie in me says to take the speaker wire which has two ends combining them to one spot on the amp but there's L+ and R+. I'm probably confusing myself, haha. But you can see how one would look at it and say where'd all the wires go if there's two ends on the amp.
I don't know how much simpler I can make it.Irongoats wrote:All this info still doesn't properly explain how one would utilize the outputs of the amp in layman's term.
On both subs, connect + to +, and - to - with two short wires.
Connect the left sub + to the amp left +
Connect the left sub - to the amp left -
Now do the same on the right...
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