Phoenix Gold Phorum

Im asking this question cause im feeling a fetish for these amps, and i want to limit it to just two if i can .

Simple question ,if you had to choose just 2 amps from the M range of amps.

One for the subs and one for the components ,which ones would you choose and why ??.

Is it cheating to say An Outlaw and Route 66??

hehe....

Just 1 amp for components ?

In that case 2 M100's

dBincognito wrote:Just 1 amp for components ?

In that case 2 M100's

If Azim is going the passive route, this would be my choice as well.

Active - I would go with the 44/100 combo. Although (2) M100 and M50 would be nice!

Welcome to the Phorum btw

Azim

why

The M100's for the pure power if going passive


M44 for mids if going active
M44 for tweeters if going active
M100 for subs.....just like Vin said.....that makes the most sense..IMO

Thanks for the reply guys .

At the moment i have got a set of PG Zero point 6.5 inch components and a Jl 13W6v2 for the sub duties .

With this in mind which set up is best ???

Also how much should i be looking to pay for a amps thats not had the capacitors replaced ?.

Azim wrote:Thanks for the reply guys .

At the moment i have got a set of PG Zero point 6.5 inch components and a Jl 13W6v2 for the sub duties .

With this in mind which set up is best ???

Also how much should i be looking to pay for a amps thats not had the capacitors replaced ?.

Well if ya wanan run em passive run 2 m100s, active m44 and m100.

Id do 2 m100s personally. Its a shame I dont have room in my car for 2 m series amps

Okay,,,my vote would be a route 66 and an outlaw,,,and if you ever decide to run a center channel you can get a bandit and presto...sq paradise...with 7.1 surround...add a three deqs and you would be ready for sq compitition....oh wait...this is my system..... welcome to the forum....Im with you fo sho on this one wakeup

The only problem i can see with 2 x M100's is that my boot floor is only 33 inches wide ,and 2 x M100's are 36 inches wide(18 inches each) .

What can i say guys you lot are so friendly ,make me feel very welcome .
Happy to be part of this family ,respect to you all

what is your height...you could put them back to back sticking up or angle them....the sky is the limit with fiberglass....I saw and rainbow reference rig a few years ago that had 8 big ass amp fanned out and overlaping the top of a box in a small ass truck and it was as it ought to be from those guys....rolling porn for all senses

Ive got a Mk2 Rabbit (GOLF in England ).
Id like to fit the amps either behind the seats or on the boot floor at the rear .
Personnally not keen on fibre glass builds ,i like to use my boot .
Will measure up later to see what ive got space wise .

what are you doing for a sub....is there a box in the boot...trunk?...build a teir that houses both amps and the box is on top....couple little fans and you should be good....not much harder then just pulling the box...I do it alot in installs that they have to be quasi removable so it is a two step pull and she all comes out...lots of room in a golf......I love m amps...I am rebuilding my entire install around them right now....well gathering the equipment anyway...you can build a false wall on the back of the back seat to hide and house the amps to...protect them and not trim to much off the trunk area

Build a rack out of wood...carpet it....hide all the wires with false floors in between the shelves....good to go

my vote would be 2 outlaws
all active
1 x M100 bridge for DVC sub
1 x M100 for front mids
1 x M50 for front tweets
1 x M50 for rears

I vote 2 M100's probably because I have 2 of them and I love lots of power.

bogart wrote:you can build a false wall on the back of the back seat to hide and house the amps to...protect them and not trim to much off the trunk area

Damn you guys are good (mind readers ),this was what i was just thinking .

Also the rake off the seat with the amps facing forward would be good for heat dissapation .

Also are 2 x M50's for front components as good a option as 1 x M100 ??.

I would say two M50s. They would have the best sound, but a bit less output than M100s.

Personally I would be willing to pay extra to buy amps which have not had the capacitors replaced. Then do it yourself, or pay someone who knows what they are doing.

I have worked on a few amps recently which have had caps replaced by forum members and the work was poor. The big problem is when people remove the original caps they damaged the circuit board. The holes from one side of the board to the other are metal plated on the inside. These are called vias. If you pull them out when you replace a cap and then you put the new cap in and solder it, there is a good chance the cap will not actually connect to the board as it should (no solder on the topside), and the cap will be just for looks.

I have replaced probably 300 or more of these capacitors over the past few years. I damage plenty of vias myself. The only difference between me damaging them and someone else is I have some good techniques for fixing them. Someone who is really good at doing this would not damage any vias, and that is the person you want working on your amp.

Eric D

The big problem is when people remove the original caps they damaged the circuit board

The how-to section says to rip them off the board
I would NEVER DO THAT

dBincognito wrote:Eric D

The big problem is when people remove the original caps they damaged the circuit board

The how-to section says to rip them off the board
I would NEVER DO THAT

i don't like this aproach either and want to know how to repair vias to a high standard myself if Eric is will to do a tutorial or anyone one elso for that matter who knows..

i've done loads of cap jobs on these amps myself and did my m100 the other day and still managed to lift a pad being very careful too but i managed to get it done ok.

but Erics right, best to get one that's not been messed about with by amatures...

Actually, I have had excellent success using Jim's method of ripping them off the board.

Personally, I bend the capacitor until it starts to pull one lead out of itself. I then bend it back the other way. If there are caps in the way you have to bend them all one way, and then all the other way. Doing this seems to put little strain on the board. If you try to pull them straight out you will require so much force, there is a whole multitude of things you could break.

Worse case the cap lead will break off. This is really a good thing. Once you get a cap off just clip the leads flush with the board. Desolder and remove them from the backside. I think Jim also mentioned clipping them off. When PG installs the caps, they put them in the holes, and bend the leads to keep the cap there. It is inevitable you will damage a via when you pull the lead through the way it went in. Its sharp cut and bent edge will likely grab the via thus damaging it.

The real pain in the ass IMO are the rail caps. Their snap in leads which have been cut at the factory want to grab onto anything. I have had very bad luck with these caps over the years.

The other thing is older MS and M amps really have crappy boards if you ask me. Work on an original MS, then work on a TA version. Somewhere along the line PC board technology jumped ahead leaps and bounds. The copper is stuck much better on newer boards and pad lifting is far more rare. I know everyone loves old MS amps, as do I, but in reality they are primitive in many ways.

Maybe I can work on a via fix tutorial. I use different methods depending mostly an what is within reach on my work bench (yes I am that lazy). Some work better than others.

I guess it's just the wording in the thread.....RIP...sounds so out of place

If you don't want to rip them, you can always use a nice four foot crowbar…

i have desoldered vias b4 as well;however once i bought the cheap rs desolder iron, ive literallly had caps slide up & out-both the 600.2s db bought from had input and rail caps replaced b/c of leakage-db, how do those amps work?

Excellent....no problems what - so - ever

Guys ,what are my options for refurbing the outer cases .
In partiqular the printing on the front of the amps .

Im sure its easy to get the case colour back to original ,but my concern is
all the print on the front of the M series amps .

Is there some way i could get that done using modern printing methods ?.

Has anybody done this sucessfully already ?.