ALT FRIED (edit) replaced w/ new, still trble NOW VID's

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 2:43 pm

Forgive me if I'm stupid and missed the part where you excluded the regulator from the list of potential problems but I still think the regulator is at issue here. The regulator should absolutely prevent the voltage from rising above X number of volts.

http://www.geocities.com/fwarner_au/mc_ ... g_test.htm

Post by **ttocs** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 2:46 pm

just curious, are you running any kind of powercore type of high-capacitance storage device? I have heard about some intermitten problems with them on some high powered situations. The people that this happened to are industry pros whose opinion I respect and could not really explain why everything went away when they took it out of the system.

If there is one that could possibly explain the neg current as it might be fighting the batt/alt to charge/discharge at the wrong time confusing the voltage regulator. IT can't hurt to try if you do have one.

dBincognito · Post by **dBincognito** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 4:09 pm

mhyde71 wrote:^^^ i have not...
kinda waiting for the kenetic to come in (if that is a go or not i dunno) still awaiting reply from seller

I already told you to pull that thing out......pull it out, then give me your reading.

Between that battery and alt.....you should already have stable voltage, and plenty of it......remove the powercore please and come back with what you got after that

Post by **ttocs** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 4:44 pm

I have to agree with him. Just disconnect it for a little while and see what happens? From what I understand they work for a while but seem to tax the alt and end up cooking them(the voltage regulator I believe).

It is the cheapest and easiest solution offered so far and this would make sence fo the negative current readings. if it were fighting the batt/alt that could confuse any voltage regulator.

Post by **mhyde71** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 6:13 pm

removed cap (powercore) from equation...
Funny, but now the Voltage meter in car will not go above 13.8, maybe hits 14.0, but only as a spike real quickly, but havent seen 14.4 since removal of cap....

i just dont see how or why that would be. weird. maybe the humidity...? but will be in car again in morning to work and see what happens then...

AND dont know if it is psycological or what... maybe reality, but just doesnt sound as sweet in/out of the front stage

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 7:02 pm

as long as it sticks at a solid 14.0 then strangly enough I think we found our problem. As I said I have been hearing from some people that know what they are talking about that months after they installed one of these they were chasing down some strange electrical gremlins. After trying everything this was the only thing they could think of and it seemed to work.

My personal opinion is that they are just too big and do what you want them to by "almost" acting like a second battery. Unfortunatly "almost" does little more then strain the charging and electrical system since it is not large enough that it fights the battery for the charge as your negative current draw shows. Just for shits and giggles now go repeat the charging test and see what it says in the morning.

Post by **mhyde71** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 9:06 pm

edit- just turned car over... 14.4/5/6!!!

NEED that second battery like "yesterday" now...
AND i think once that is in place i bet i'll be good to go!

HEY QUESTION:

given i have the two ZBB34 D-blocks or whatever the model is.,...
CAN I just wire the battery to the other inputs to the d=blocks???

For those who dont know the ZBB34's have three (3) 0-ga inputs and four (4) 4ga outputs.... I am only using one (1) 0-ga input for both power & ground... CANT I just wire the extra batt into one of those inputs??? and if i was to (say) get two addit batt's in trunk, could i simply wire the second into the last remaining input on the two blocks????

wouldnt that net the install an end result of + to + and - to - ????

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:17 am

do you guys buy your batteries in pairs or just one at a time when you add a 2nd battery?

Make sure you fuse the 2nd battery with in 12 inches of it.

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:32 am

so is it cool to just run it into the spare inputs on the d-blocks?? theres nothing wrong with that right? eh?

Post by **joerg** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:48 am

mhyde71 wrote:so is it cool to just run it into the spare inputs on the d-blocks?? theres nothing wrong with that right? eh?

You´ll be fine with connecting the battery to one of the other inputs!

But as ttocs recommended, if your battery is located more than 30 inches from the d-block use another inline fuse not further than 12 inches after the + connector of your battery!

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:59 am

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:Forgive me if I'm stupid and missed the part where you excluded the regulator from the list of potential problems but I still think the regulator is at issue here. The regulator should absolutely prevent the voltage from rising above X number of volts.

http://www.geocities.com/fwarner_au/mc_ ... g_test.htm

i just saw this post by fuzzy... well I am not entirely sure whether we have ruled it out yet or not... it's a tough one, as the alternator takes so much effort and work to get back in it is fricken ridiculous. BUT have been to a couple different places now and they all say the alt is working fine. BUT have not gone to where I really would like to go, but maybe today... a starter/generator shop next town over. BUT TBH, i havent seen spoikes like I did when i first put it in... still all over the place, but nothing where it is causing the charging light in dash to flicker, and dont believe i have seen it go over 15.2 but more than once... hit 16.00 for split second, but only on the radar detector voltage meter... never have i seen it on the head unit meter, BUT have seen it cause a flash of concern w/ the charging system light flicker in dash board.

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:13 am

i will say this also...
MY Lights are dimming the fuck right up now though w/ p.core gone...
I need kenetic or sutton back there, maybe two!

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 6:03 am

UPDATE: okay here we go...
drive into work and here is what is kinda weird....

The voltage meter as seen in videos is meter that is incorporated with the radar detector. and this morning (first real drive) into work with stereo full throttle the radar meter showed me numbers like 14.6/7 at start, get speed up and bump stereo once on the big road, and see radar meter spiking upwards of 15.2/ 15.5/ 15.7/ 15.8, 15.9... and what's more is that on radar meter (now with cap gone), when it gets up to those numbers it appears it is hanging in there for a longer period of time... whereas before it would spike up to 15.9 for split second and then shoot right back down... this morning it was more like 15.9, then 15.8, 15.7 before settling back down to 14.5/6/7

BUT/HOWEVER! I pulled plug on radar and switched over to HU meter and with same track, same volume, etc... (will make video later today), but the HU meter didn't go above 14.2/3...?

SO maybe we have a situation with where (exactly) the current is getting measured... radar detector is plugged into cig lighter, HU, off panel, SO (first thing i am doing when i get home) put in the Ti-RMD and have that wired up front to me so I can watch it and see what's getting measured back there at the amps/blocks (that would be my primary concern). Obviously the reading at the block is what I am mostly concerned about... BUT and I think it is entirely possible that there would be different readings depending on where it gets measured due to resistance, and through what/which circuit and all that crap... so RMD this evening, video of the HU V-meter, and lets see where that brings us.

What say you folks!?

Post by **joerg** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 6:22 am

Forget both of those meters (headunit and radar) and get a DMM Matt!
U get much more acurrate readings from it and u could go on min-max measurments and trace the lowest and the highest voltage for a certain time period.

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 6:35 am

joerg wrote:Forget both of those meters (headunit and radar) and get a DMM Matt!
U get much more acurrate readings from it and u could go on min-max measurments and trace the lowest and the highest voltage for a certain time period.

no yeah there is definitely some merit to that, absolutely... but i cant ignore the fact that the charging light and (it seemed at the time when it happened) that the charging idiot light and all other lights in dash flickered as the radar meter posted up above 16.0. Know what I mean? there is defi something to that, and having a proper meter, but can not ignore the fact that all the dash lights flicker like it is going to shut down (almost) when it went up over 16... know what I mean? like when you turn ignition on, and you see all the dash lights light-up>?< and it does that when i see/saw the radar meter up and over 16.x... but point well taken (i do have a 120v) supply in car, I could bring the fluke45, but otherwise my GE yellow hand-held DMM perhaps?

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:40 am

and to just add to / prove my point
just now on way home for lunch, the radar says 14.4, but HU says 13.7...

i have seen as much as a whole volt diff between the two meter readings but typically only .5 difference.

SO yeah, dmm, on it and will show/provide results.

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 11:12 am

the PG voltage display I had was almost an entire volt off from what my fluke showed so I adjusted the pot on the back so it read the same as the fluke.

I was always taught that if you have 2 batteries that if they are not isolated then they need to be two matched batteries. Do you guys follow that practice or do you just slap another one on there?

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:12 pm

I am not so so familiar with these extra battery applications/installs/setups...
i have very thin amount of room, and stuff... what would be bestest, slimest battery for me?

I was entertaining the Kenetic hc600, and think it would fit... might anyone know what battery would be almost identical in size, but maybe a better option? I have also considered those half-size yellow tops as I have a red top as it is, but those are even a little bigger i think... i'd have to check the spec's on what that story really is.... just thinking that someone may know from past expirience that a certain/particular battery is like very very small but packs a great punch.

I am considering putting in in one of the cubby's I made for one of the 275's. and there is like very small amount of room in there behind the amp, to the side panel... and a little concerned about taking up all that space in there for having/allowing air flow through there for the amp... but i am not sure i really have any other choice.

depends on what suggestions pop up and those particular sizes that are for those batteries.

m