been a long time ,started tweeking again

opimax · Post by **opimax** » Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:14 am

current set up
Factory head unit (Blose)
TLD44 or Cleansweep(missing OEM input plug but could be useful for adding option Blackberry input of Pandora) $12 shipped

215x
ZX-500
PP! 2075
TI elite 6
JL 10w6v2 in g35 fiberglass custom fit box
optional CUBE may reinstall if the spirit moves me, could do 1 on each amp

Hi,used to hangout here a while ago, Bought Doc's repaired Reactor where he rebuilt the main board. Have 2 other Reactors , spare zx 450 and 500, Xenon sub, did have a complete TI6 spare but blew a tweeter yesterday, a 20 band in reactor finish, a defective 215ix (figured that out last week after having in the car for a couple years blaming everything else,some more PG stuff thinkk of ..another post some other time.

Today after having my car apart for weeks I have got the 1st set of equipment in and was able to listen and drive the car!!!

Couple of questions at this time tho....
1st in anybody is in the DC area and wants to either see(listen) or offer suggestion in person please get in touch

I am with ok with all all but 2 things
1)Level adjustments!!!!
2)Loss of sound quality when the door panel is reinstalled
I think #2 is going to need to be seen/heard to really attack so today's question will focus on the level adjustments

I have a meter , i have never done the adjustment using it. i think that would be the best choice and after i finish typing i may search for it but before that since i am impatient:

setting factory headpiece to either 17 or 22 depending who I believe for full volume

Feeds the SLd 22. It has an LED for sound level next to the power LED. it glows red when driven hard.
Should it glow constantly,
flash at peaks ,
doesn't matter it just an idiot light and means nothing

Goes to the 215 X crossed at 90
level in -12 to plus 20 I believe and .2, 2 and 8 volt LEDs
ideally the best based on the amps would be ??? 8 volt flashing on peak is my guess
then output adjustment for the sub and the mains , actually would think the 2075 is rated to 2volts, I think the zx 500 can handle more tho
which would put the inputs on PPI to min and the PG to match by ear??

After the EQ as stated goes to the amps.
PPI to min and PG to match. Using the XO on the amp set at 30 lowest , like a sub sonic filter, and adding some bass boost(cuz it seem to need at low to mid bass on the ti 6"

Last question is the Flashing LEDs on the Elite XO, what is that telling me about the output to the XO? and should it peak flashing, constantly on or something else

Mark

Hi everybody! and TIA

opimax · Post by **opimax** » Mon Sep 06, 2010 12:53 pm

Found the plug for the Cleansweep, checking it out for install , wire length and routing, maybe add cable for CUBE

Found 3 cubes, a 2-way XO (406???) broken Cyclone

, some non PG speakers(Canton , Focal, various others and electronics)

Mark

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Sep 06, 2010 1:54 pm

I think the leds you are describing, are the clipping leds? This is what happens when a signal is overdriven, and is very VERY hard on both amps and speakers..... Not sure about the light in the cross over but I would not be suprised if it is not the same.

opimax · Post by **opimax** » Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:07 pm

The 1st set of LEDs was on the SLD44.there are 2, a green power and a red signal Just now when rechecking the manual it states that that is a clipping indicator. Thanks

9. Turn the system on. You should see a Green LED on the top of
The SLD44 this indicates that the unit is on and functional.
10. Now turn the volume on the source unit to 75-80% of its
total volume capability.
11. Now turn the “Line OUT adjustment” dials clockwise to
increase the output level to just below distorted/clipping level*.
12. Turn the source down, you should now have almost full
volume control at the source without noise.

Since posting I have removed this piece and installed the Cleansweep.

It has clipping indicators also which are marked as "clipping". I set the level with a CD and calibrate button which includes an auto level adjustment based on the source volume setting.

I have the levels on both amps set to minimum since I can drive them past 2 volts which is max for the PPI on the 215x

I have also installed A CUBE on the PPI amp

I have connected the CUBE and the Cleansweep but now need to mount them and run the wires.

Another question, using a zx450 vs. zx500 on a set of Ti Elite 6. Years ago I asked somewhere In PG the same question. He said he would use the Zx500 even though the 150 vs. 250 watt power ratting of the 2 amps, more head room and maybe something else??? Dampening maybe???Unfortunately I cannot find the email...anyway any comment/suggestion on this?

Also still looking for more info on the blue LEDs on the TI XOver. In the Manual it just says "Blue LEDs: Blue LEDs within the crossover will vary intensity according to the musical signal level" is the only reference to them. It seems if the recommended min of 75 watts they would expect the LED to at least flicker at that level and max at 250 for the 5 1/4 or 300 for the 6 set. I can’t find any additional info so far

Mark

The Golden One · Post by **The Golden One** » Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:51 pm

on the q about running the zx500 over the zx450 on the ti's im pretty sure the reasoning would be when you bridge an amp especially on high's your gona always get distortion and to a true audiophile that is just unexceptable.

opimax · Post by **opimax** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 5:51 am

Thx, certainly a valid point . I ask you tho , if you had both(I do)which would you use? real world and paper are sometime different animals.

The reason I chose the 500 was the terminal placement is just a touch different and I needed the inch for the existing wire lengths

I could make it work but it would require additional time. I would do it if the consensus was a worthwhile difference.

As far as the LEDs on the TI XO I still would like to know the the level specs they represent by design. I am hoping it can give me a guide on how much power they are actually seeing. Otherwise the XO, CUBE and Cleansweep are not visible(and their LEDs) in my set up, buried under plastic support in the trunk

Off to hopefully finish install, day 1 of extended weekend.I am scheduled myself to do rotors and pads, priority is music

Mark

Post by **stipud** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:32 am

Hey Opi, long time no see. Welcome back

Yeah those clip LEDs should just barely be flashing on loud music. Or, if you use a test tone, turn it up to right around where the LED turns on constantly. With the EQ 8v is probably the best as well, of course that doesn't work with your PPI so you may have to cut the voltage down to 2 on that output.

In my Saab I found my stock headunit had no clipping even at full volume. That may be the case in your G35 as well, or it may not. Unfortunately it's hard to tell without an oscilloscope

The Golden One · Post by **The Golden One** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:27 am

you where asking if ive had both no just the 450 the reason being is that i heard that a 0.5 was on sell and then found it had the red torriods. so what do i do i call in sick for work and drive a few hundred miles and buy it ive never done something like that before and so far have yet to do it again. but anyway back on topic i have bridged the 450 on the ti5's just the mids and cant's say i didnt like the sound it was freakisly loud but it was lacking in dynamics. i was a little scared to run it with the tweet's because that get's expensive when i do thing's like that not saying it can't be done just not for me.

Post by **Eric D** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 3:01 pm

Wow, glad to have you back!

By the way, if you ever want to sell that reactor, let me know, I would consider it. Sure I need a reactor like I need a hole in my head, but I miss that one, I have a personal bond with it from all the work I had into it.

opimax · Post by **opimax** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 4:39 pm

Hello all,

Just finished for the evening outside (no garage)Have the trunk togther, well everything but the bottom rear seat , have it out and will clean, pop in no dramatics and the back of the back seat where the amps are located, they may take some time tomorrow.

Now off to Jerry' sub for dinner(vacation food ) and and more questions/comments when I get back.

Mark

opimax · Post by **opimax** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:41 pm

Back and full

Doc,

I don't really want to sell it, maybe trade though. I would have interest in ZPA equipment or another Reactor in as good as shape, happy to get it back to you. I have 2 other Reactors, 1 no cover, and the 500 and 450.

Last i remember you were getting married and buying a house..all that happen?

I inherited this house, lived in it 34 years total. I got into more home stereo. Then the car stereo wouldn't turn on 1 day, had to tear it up pretty deep to find the bad valet switch which controlled the turn on circuit. since it was apart I started fixing more detailed stuff

Since you are probably reading this please answer which amp would you use?450 or 500. any factual knowledge in the TI XO LEDs? and a new question...I have s .5 farad Pg cap on the 2 amps, is this big enough to help or is it hurting the system?

Stipud, nice that people remember me. I think I got lost when PG went under and I started home stereo about the same time. Jbondo was dominating the board w/crap. how sure are you they are clipping LEDs? it seems it might be a show piece and they want them to flash. the manual states they will flash due to music intensity. Any thoughts on the otherr 2 questions? 450 vs 500 and .5 farad too small but help or hurt?

GO, I assume you are saying a zpa w special power supply became available...not as familiar w/ZPA series

and yes I fell asleep while typing a response to Stipud

Mark

Post by **Eric D** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 7:09 am

Mark, yep, I bought a house and got married. Then I lost my job for 18 months, and found another, which is not all that great. It somewhat pays the bills though, so I cannot complain too much.

I ran a ZX450 and ZX500 in my vehicle for quite some time. I used the ZX450 bridged to my components, and the ZX500 bridged on my subs. Honestly it was the best sounding setup I have ever had. Using a ZX450 bridged gains you so much headroom, plus the ability to actually keep up with the output of the sub amp was a big plus for me.

The main concern with running a ZX450 bridged to your components is getting it configured correctly. The onboard crossover is pretty complex, and if you don't set it up right, you either end up with mono instead of stereo, or you end up filtering something out of the right or left side. In my case I had the front bridged to the right set of speakers, and running high pass with a "Y" cable on the inputs, and the rear bridged to the left set of components running high pass with another "Y" cable.

In the case of the Ti XO, I really don't know the first thing about those.

In the case of the capacitor, I personally have never used a cap in any of my systems, but I don't use large aftermarket batteries, or alternators either. Just a big power wire, and a big ground wire which is grounded well has worked for me. If it is easy to get at I replace the wire from the alternator to the battery, and the battery ground, but if they take any effort I don't waste my time.

Post by **ttocs** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:36 am

with the 450 you could run the speakers active.

opimax · Post by **opimax** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 11:06 am

I have to go back to work tomorrow so i am done!! leaving the 500 more powerful than the ppi 2075 so no issues. after puttig all together , front speakers don't have zip and sound like they are in a cave , more so at low volume. Damn panels screw up the sound, speakers too far from the opening and I have mounting adapters but not quite as good as factory blose ...and there is probably the sound quality issue. Without them I am almost happy. I have Pandora in the car now , between that and it turns on now, a success!

I have no issues setting the XO especiallly w/1set of speakers and plenty of practice when I had the Reactor in but just not worth it now

Still have Brakes to do, they were scheduled to completed yesterday LOL

the best electronics can't make up for the panels! so why fight that part. the car has been undriveable for 3 weeks , I am done!

TI XO out of sight so LEDs don't matter (til next time).

WOw 18 months!! I have been lucky and still doing desktop support for Northrop Grumman on NG owned equipment and offices, not married though

for 14 years) still hoping , have a GF, no interest in electronics. I have even more home stuff than car stuff, 5 systems currently and I live by myself, JBL, Perreaux,, Dahlquist, Adcom, Velodyne classic stuff, mostly 80s, some newer, some decent

TT, running active would be interesting but even more adjustments, and supposedly the XO was a special design component of the speaker system, notches as stuff i couldn't recreate if I tried, OVERLOAD!!!

I think If I do this again , quality co-axs, point source sound

Mark

Post by **ttocs** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 11:16 am

can't wait to power up my elites and get them running. one install I am looking forward to is the 9s in the doors and that x-over lighting up so perty....

The Golden One · Post by **The Golden One** » Thu Sep 09, 2010 6:11 pm

i was just thinking the 450 bridged on your front speakers maybe the way to go you would have alot more power and also be like the cheater amps of the good old days. the only thing is im not the one to ask to help you to tune it because im not well versed in this area but if you can find an o scope you may can get away with it. like i said im not the one to ask because ive smoked alot of tweeter's simply because im insane with my highs.

opimax · Post by **opimax** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 5:55 am

I don't have any 9, wish I did!! add to the complexity of physical install and mixing different part of the sound spectrum. Will they have their own box or be in a door? I like keeping my drivers as close as possible.What about xover? I assume active but what range? the 9s will play above the point of being able to hear them directionally (unlike a real sub), they can get finicky

I think using 500 into a 2 ohm component set would be a cool cheater set up probably 300 to the pair.

I am pretty much good with adjustment at this point, I drive all to distortion w/o engine noise and pretty well match levels by ear, some music sounds damn good other poor recording are rough.bass is a little muddy.

I was thinking that maybe I have standing waves with the front speakers aimed directly at each other. how about If I take off the adapters which is 2 layers of wood either glued or just sandwiched together and then slice them so the speaker are pointed towards the driver either symmetrically or actually at the driver

In theory does this help or hurt in total sound quality? It would have them not pointed at each other but would mounted in this unusual position hurt other properties? if the door panels are the problem would I be making it worse by pointing the speaker slightly further into the back of the panel?

anybody local want to help with this part?

Please post thoughts!

Thanks

Mark