RTE 66 ARTWORK Z228R's- RTE 66 COMPLETED!
that looks a lot better... more class with the simpler logos... 
like everything, you get better with the more you do!

like everything, you get better with the more you do!
Damo - Australian member..
Speakers: 3 way front - morel elate9 (in custom doors), Peerless HDS Exlusive 4" midrange (in kicks), Scanspeak 1" illuminator (in custom a-pillars)
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PG Ti amps: 2x Ti600.4 (front stage) + Ti2500.1 (sub duties)
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Subwoofers: 3x Phoenix Gold Ti2 10d2 (in wheel well enclosure)
PG Ti amps: 2x Ti600.4 (front stage) + Ti2500.1 (sub duties)
- mhyde71
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OKAY SO got the electronics/boards back together with sink
Last week changed out the grey term's to black term's....
this should be one nice looking piece when finished...
Last week changed out the grey term's to black term's....
this should be one nice looking piece when finished...
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- mhyde71
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GOT COVER CLEARED
DID 2 COATS OF GLOSS AND THIS IS LOOKING BANANA's!
will be all together tomorrow morning !
DID 2 COATS OF GLOSS AND THIS IS LOOKING BANANA's!
will be all together tomorrow morning !
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absolutely you (someone) could no question...
I dont typically offer polishing and all that...
BUT perhaps i would have slight concerns about sanding on top of the artwork...
BUT given i did two coats of gloss clear i bet there wouldnt be any trouble.
SO absolutely! yes yes you can... and it would be smoooth smooooth smooooth like glass. sometimes finishes come out smooth and no need for that sanding... but in others where there might be the desire of glass looking finish... then yes you would sand...
typically i do not sand... i have, but normally do not.
m
I dont typically offer polishing and all that...
BUT perhaps i would have slight concerns about sanding on top of the artwork...
BUT given i did two coats of gloss clear i bet there wouldnt be any trouble.
SO absolutely! yes yes you can... and it would be smoooth smooooth smooooth like glass. sometimes finishes come out smooth and no need for that sanding... but in others where there might be the desire of glass looking finish... then yes you would sand...
typically i do not sand... i have, but normally do not.
m
Last edited by mhyde71 on Sun Sep 26, 2010 8:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I would be talking about a quick 1500 grit, 2000 and then buffing it. I bet that thing could look like a mirror. I am not sure if I am happy or sad that I discovered wet sanding as since then I am completely anal about orange peel in the work I do myself. When people find out I painted my dash myself with a rattle can they are suprised but it is all in the polish that happens after the paint.
Don't do it yourself hyde as I could see you falling into the same rut as me and then needing to polish all your work....
Don't do it yourself hyde as I could see you falling into the same rut as me and then needing to polish all your work....
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
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well funny thing is,
is that this batch of clear gloss has been giving me problems from the last vanity plte I did, the reactor cover, and now this piece...
there are a number of causes and resolutons to prventing OP...this cover also sustained some peel, not so so bad...but its happened on last 3 pieces I did, not color coats, but the gloss clear- so im thinking its the powder.
I normally don't expirience OP in my results...but lately with gloss I have been- need to look into that- it is also a diff gloss clear than I normally have gotten- so maybe I need to go back to the orig i had always gotten before. TBH this was lil cheaper and from my primary vendor.. i used to get clear off ebay like ritually, but this last time i didnt - it's gotta be this powder.
is that this batch of clear gloss has been giving me problems from the last vanity plte I did, the reactor cover, and now this piece...
there are a number of causes and resolutons to prventing OP...this cover also sustained some peel, not so so bad...but its happened on last 3 pieces I did, not color coats, but the gloss clear- so im thinking its the powder.
I normally don't expirience OP in my results...but lately with gloss I have been- need to look into that- it is also a diff gloss clear than I normally have gotten- so maybe I need to go back to the orig i had always gotten before. TBH this was lil cheaper and from my primary vendor.. i used to get clear off ebay like ritually, but this last time i didnt - it's gotta be this powder.
Last edited by mhyde71 on Sat Sep 25, 2010 9:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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well here she goes...
now remember i only blasted and painted it... i didnt make it new so the dented/bent metal i tried fixing... i made the 2-3 cases better, but they are not new- this is not a new amp... i tis a painted/coated 20 yr old amp. Elec been re-furbed by the best in town, the coating done by the best cloater around too! so here it is -
I ended up deciding to go witg gold screws in the badge b/c that was really all i had that fit... and had nuts for. i just so happened to have the stainless nylon lock washers that worked great with the 6-32 gold plated cap heads... plus every-single other fastener visible is gold plated. would have seemed odd i think (could easily be changed), but to have white or black there would have seemed like they we'rent following suit.
yeah yeah
Matt you are gonna love this man! WHOLLY SHIT MAN!
Sry about the OP in the gloss as we were discussing earlier... but it still looks great... i was looking at my white 2250/2125 sinks i have here and their bottom covers... I see OP in their coating also! I will be going back to my original clear i dont recall ever getting OP in.
matt
now remember i only blasted and painted it... i didnt make it new so the dented/bent metal i tried fixing... i made the 2-3 cases better, but they are not new- this is not a new amp... i tis a painted/coated 20 yr old amp. Elec been re-furbed by the best in town, the coating done by the best cloater around too! so here it is -
I ended up deciding to go witg gold screws in the badge b/c that was really all i had that fit... and had nuts for. i just so happened to have the stainless nylon lock washers that worked great with the 6-32 gold plated cap heads... plus every-single other fastener visible is gold plated. would have seemed odd i think (could easily be changed), but to have white or black there would have seemed like they we'rent following suit.
yeah yeah
Matt you are gonna love this man! WHOLLY SHIT MAN!
Sry about the OP in the gloss as we were discussing earlier... but it still looks great... i was looking at my white 2250/2125 sinks i have here and their bottom covers... I see OP in their coating also! I will be going back to my original clear i dont recall ever getting OP in.
matt
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We dottocs wrote:I thought even pro painters would wet/color sand to get a perfect finish. I don't think it has much to do as much with the person or equipment, just to get stuff perfectly flat is really really hard.

I bet there are very few, if any, custom paint jobs out there that haven't been cut n buffed to within an inch of their lives, as modern products make a perfectly flat finish more and more difficult to achieve straight from the gun.
In fact multiple painting sessions are the norm for the really high end custom stuff, with each being sanded flat before the next application.
dahum...
very very nice looking amp...
very very nice looking amp...

Damo - Australian member..
Speakers: 3 way front - morel elate9 (in custom doors), Peerless HDS Exlusive 4" midrange (in kicks), Scanspeak 1" illuminator (in custom a-pillars)
Subwoofers: 3x Phoenix Gold Ti2 10d2 (in wheel well enclosure)
PG Ti amps: 2x Ti600.4 (front stage) + Ti2500.1 (sub duties)
Speakers: 3 way front - morel elate9 (in custom doors), Peerless HDS Exlusive 4" midrange (in kicks), Scanspeak 1" illuminator (in custom a-pillars)
Subwoofers: 3x Phoenix Gold Ti2 10d2 (in wheel well enclosure)
PG Ti amps: 2x Ti600.4 (front stage) + Ti2500.1 (sub duties)
- mhyde71
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WELL imma try getting the gloss clear i normally used... back in the day and never had any trouble with getting a more smoother finish... if i had any i would have used it on the cover, but i had 5# of this gloss clear from my primary vendor... so i tried it... last three things i did came out with some orange peel - some more than others.... thank goodness it's not so so bad on this one... BUT the reactor it was real bad... hence a re-do will be getting done with the reactor cover... then it will look like glass. Live and learn- already oprdered thje other (orig) clear- should be here shortlypaintguy wrote:We dottocs wrote:I thought even pro painters would wet/color sand to get a perfect finish. I don't think it has much to do as much with the person or equipment, just to get stuff perfectly flat is really really hard.
I bet there are very few, if any, custom paint jobs out there that haven't been cut n buffed to within an inch of their lives, as modern products make a perfectly flat finish more and more difficult to achieve straight from the gun.
In fact multiple painting sessions are the norm for the really high end custom stuff, with each being sanded flat before the next application.
m
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