Servicing a Cyclone

[nico boom]

Applying spray helps to keep the core together. The magnet will loose small particles over time, the spray just keeps them bonded to the core longer.
The cyclones I serviced back when making this thread still kick ass.

When you don't apply any spray, particles will get stuck between the core and coil sooner, that's all.
Hope this helps.
Nico

[mtnman423]

Thanks for the info

[mtnman423]

I have tried about everything in getting my cyclone unstuck. Does anyone that has cleaned one have any suggestions? I don't have a vice to use as suggested.

[nico boom]

You could try, scraping into the debri with a valve- clearance gauge like used in the car industry and work your way down while holding a vacuumcleaner close to the area you work on.

This way you could loose some of the debri bit by bit and in the end get the coil out. This does take patience though !!
Bend the valve clearance so it will fit into the round space between the coil and rotor.

It's the best I can think of.... good luck.
Nico

[mtnman423]

Thanks, I'll give it a try

[mtnman423]

So I got the cyclone apart finally. The magnet is broken off in one spot. Does anyone know how much of the magnet can be missing and the sun still work.

[nico boom]

Can you post a picture of the broken off area, so we can have a look?

A big piece broken off , will affect the movement of the vanes [ output of the cyclone] but if it's not too large I'd say go for it.
I would defenately go for the normal treatment of the core, cleaning- procedure and check the output afterwards with a signal-generator.

Good luck,
Nico
[ and do post some pics..]

[mtnman423]

I got both my cyclones apart and I'm afraid I'm gonna have to have one for parts and one that works. With my first one it has a chunk of the magnet broken off and on the second the "hot" wire is burned. Since one is probably gonna be junk anyway I may try to get it working and hope for the best. I can put the broken magnet back together and seal it so that it won't move or shake around and the burnt wire can be replaced. What's everyone's thoughts. I was really wanting to hear and feel both of these working.

[nico boom]

Ouch.. that hurts my eyes.

I think there's going to be one to look at and one to listen to.....
Nico

[trickyricky]

Might be able to epoxy it back together...good luck, worth the shot.

[ttocs]

epoxy a magnet? Pretty sure they are not that easy.

[mtnman423]

Instead of using three different forum topics, I will start a new on about my journey servicing my cyclones. Please feel free to follow me on my journey making my clones come alive. I look forward to everyone's comments.

[mtnman423]

Be sure to keep up with my Cyclone journey in the forum. here is he link http://www.phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic. ... 80#p251980

[mtnman423]

So I now have this new obsession of fixing the PG Cyclones. If there is anyone out there wanting to sell one message me. mtnman423@yahoo.com

[mtnman423]

Here is a copy of an email that I just got from the new owner of PG. hope it helps out.

[knightrider358]

Alster no longer services pg products

[ttocs]

welcome to the forum, we are happy you are into the cyclones. You will get a better response if instead of plastering the same thing on 10-15 different posts already made, just make your own.......................

[Stravus]

I know this is an old thread but just wanted say Thank you to Nico for writing it up. It has been a great help.

Not sure if anyone is paying attention or not but after coating the core with the varnish would it not be helpful to also spray a light coat of Dry lubricant on it?

[mtnman423]

You can use something like graphite as a dry lube. Just use it sparingly. While it is a lube, it also takes up space. Depending on how much varnish you used, there may be places that are a tight fit. Ill give it a try myself and see if it helps out on both the heat and wear=n=tear.

[Stravus]

I am in the process now of servicing a cyclone so I was considering using some pfte.

[ttocs]

I thought it rotated around sealed bearings? If that is the case I am not sure how much it will help, but to consider the cons that if it isn't dry it will just collect dust and then you never know if it will mess with the coating you just put on it? I would save the lube myself.

[Stravus]

Yea I am just going to stick to what had been done before.

[ttocs]

I could see possibly replacing the bearings and thought that some router bearings matched up for someone that swapped them out.

[carr]

This post is created to help everybody who has a cyclone subwoofer, or is thinking about buying one.

NOTE that this post is made by me with the best means I have available, combined with the original info provided by the grace of the technicians at PG ,which I thank for their time and effort to make this possible for us, here on this forum.

I have serviced several cyclones, learning all the time; now there is a simple and effective way of performing this operation yourself.
However; I do not take any responsibility for problems you might encounter while performing this operation, since there are variables in how bad the rotor is stuck inside the coil, and the degree of your own craftsmanship, as well as the availability of the tools needed.

there it is; BNIB.


still.... it needed the servicing as seen in this post.


these "hidden screws" hold the clamps, in which the spring is hold to return the rotor to it's center position after each excursion.


before unscrewing the hex screws, tap them gently with a lightweight hamer, to make sure the wrench is completely inserted in the screw.
these screws are TIGHT, and need quite some force to loosen.
ONLY LOOSEN ONE-TO ONE-AND-A-HALF TURN.


remove the four long bolts that holds the top section; observe, and maybe write down on which side the connectors are; while re-assembling, it will fit in two different ways.


carefully pry a screwdriver between the housing and the top; only on the four points where the housing is strengthened. do NOT use excessive force; by gently using the screwdriver on all sides, the top comes off easily. CAREFULL! the leads connecting the


the top removed; be carefull with the leads; always move the coil around with caution, taking the coil in one- and the top in your other hand, supporting it with as little tension on the leads as possible.


problem in full view; magnetic core stuck in the coil; putting power to it WILL DESTROY the coil due to overheating; NEVER TRY TO FIX THE PROBLEM BY PLAYING MUSIC, OR PUTTING POWER TO YOUR STUCK CYCLONE.


I tried two methods for removing the coil;
NORMAL WAY [advised by PG]
-pulling the coil out with two rods inserted halfway the thread; pull sideways and upwards, while placing your feet on both sides of the housing.
If not working; ask a friend to help you, inserting the other two rods as well, pulling at the same time [ again sideways and upwards].

the thread on the rods help to prevent slipping; insert half the length of the thread.


pulling out- and upwards; needs a lot of force both ways.


the correct position for first methode of pulling


THE ROUGH WAY [last remedy, advised by me since it worked fine for my cyclone]
-carefully place the edge of the coil in a vise, CAREFULL; make sure only to apply pressure at the points next to two of the holes, where the layers of the coil are welded together.
Also make sure the cap with the wires still attached to it rests in a way so that the wires are not under tensile stress.
Every time you pulled out about 2 cm. ; place the coil deeper into the vise, to gain grip on it.
This last remedy methode worked very well for my cyclone; the coil in it was completely stuck, so the normal way did not work.
If you have a bearing-puller that can be used, or you might find another way of removing the coil; share it with us.
I just gave you my simple methode.

pressure applied at the right points; next to the holes, where the welds are


apply just enough pressure to prevent the coil from slipping out while pulling


the coil with top cap. CAUTION; while putting it aside, be carefull not to damage the leads to the coil.


this is the problem; the magnet structure is slowly falling apart, with the debri getting stuck between the coil and the rotor. this can happen with used, AND ALSO BNIB cyclones; periodic maintenance is needed.


this is what the coil looks like before cleaning; this is the easy part to clean, as it does not attract the particles as strong as the magnetic core does.


BEFORE starting with the actual cleaning; TAPE THE CLONE SECURELY. reason for that is explained later.


brush with a strong toothbrush while holding a vacuumcleaner close to it. CAREFULL; magnetic particles will be "catapulted "outwards.
Keep brushing upwards until the magnet is clean, then BLOW OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR.


the cleaned magnet; at one point you have to decide that it's clean enough; if you keep on brushing, you will keep on loosening magnetic material.


carefully tape the inside; watch the next pics for the important parts to be covered.


be sure to tape off the upper section, to prevent coating beeing sprayed on the center rod, and the top bearing in the magnet


fully taped, and covered. ATTENTION;note that I sealed the 4 holes in which the rods connect to the housing in the next pic.


the coated magnet; leave it time enough to dry and harden completely .


the laquer used for coating the magnet; any high temp resisting coating will do IMO.


carefully position the coil above the housing; CAUTION! the coil will be pulled down HARD by the very strong magnet, so be prepared, and put both your hands on the edge of the housing to keep control over the coil.


slowly proceed, using your fingers on each side.


align the coil with the holes in the center piece by looking through the 4 holes and rotate the coil if neccesary.


the coil in place, with the coated magnet visible; do NOT try to rotate the rotor before the top cap has been fitted in place and tightened.


pressing down the clamps while evenly tightening the halves.


the two parts of the clamps must be tightened equally, so that the gap is the same left and right.


GOOD LUCK.
Nico

How do you remove the magnetic core from shaft to access bearings?

[ttocs]

so power them up and be ready to be amazed