Amp Voltage Problem

97eXpo · Post by **97eXpo** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:06 pm

okay so heres the problem,
ive had my rsd1200.1 running for about 2 months and it was flawless. recently ive noticed on the rmd that my voltage is always low...ive changed nothign and am getting constant 12.3-12.6v readings compared to 13.9-14.1v i used to get when i first installed it. anyone else ever had a similar problem or any trouble shooting tips?? all help is tremendously appreciated!! i need to get this fixed so i get bumping again ASAP!!!

thanks

stockheadunit-loc-rsd1200.1-2rsd12s4

Tcguy85 · Post by **Tcguy85** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:11 pm

maybe your battery or alt is on it's way out?

97eXpo · Post by **97eXpo** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:16 pm

dammmit, i was wondering if that was the problem...i was guessing its the alternator since it should be providing all the power when the car is running correct?? its a 97 expedition with 158xxx miles, i do know however that the alternator is not original...has a remanufactured sticker on it. time for a new alternator??? :/

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:48 am

run down to autozone or checker and have them run a quick test on your charging system. it's free and will help to reduce the amount of guesswork you're facing.

97eXpo · Post by **97eXpo** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:05 am

so it is my charging system?? nothing with the amp or the power cables correct? im gonna check with my autoshop teacher to see if he has anything to test the alternator if not ill take it down to autozone and see whats up.. thanks for all the help

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:24 am

I would double check your battery terminals for corrosion. And also the ground spot for the amp. May be developing rust under the terminal if it was screwed down to an area that is exposed to the elements on the opposite side. ie: screwed to the floor with the screw poking outside. If that's all OK then it's off to the service center as dedly suggested.

gridracer · Post by **gridracer** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 2:14 pm

All you need to test your alternator is a digital volt meter. with the car running the battery should have 13.8 volts at least if it doesn't and only has 12.xx or less then your alternator is not charging properly.

HoseHead · Post by **HoseHead** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 2:33 pm

All good comments.

Like Grid mentioned:

Use a voltage meter across the battery posts.

Engine off - At least 12 VDC - maybe higher if car was just run for a period of time.
Engine on - 13.8 13VDC or higher, but less than 14.5 VDC

Before condeming the battery/charging system, physically disconnect your audio system (remove main fuse) and test again.
If the numbers are now good, you have a problem in the audio system circuit.
If the numbers stay the same, it's either a tired battery, your alternator or your regulator.
Your vehicle's regulator is a solid state device integral to the alternator that converts the alternator's AC voltage to a regulated DC votlage.
Well used batteries will breakdown, reducing their ability to receive the 13.8 VDC from your alternator.

Your RMD may also be out of calibration, but not likely.

Report back, please

HH

97eXpo · Post by **97eXpo** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:33 pm

well thanks for all the help...of course when i start my car to go to school today and bring it into auto, its perfectly fine...ughhh, at least now i know what to do in the future...thanks a bunch guys!

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 4:46 pm

gridracer wrote:All you need to test your alternator is a digital volt meter. with the car running the battery should have 13.8 volts at least if it doesn't and only has 12.xx or less then your alternator is not charging properly.

i wish it were that easy. unfortunately this type of testing is not nearly as conclusive as a proper load test on your alternator.

fordtough1 · Post by **fordtough1** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 6:02 pm

dedlyjedly wrote:
gridracer wrote:All you need to test your alternator is a digital volt meter. with the car running the battery should have 13.8 volts at least if it doesn't and only has 12.xx or less then your alternator is not charging properly.
i wish it were that easy. unfortunately this type of testing is not nearly as conclusive as a proper load test on your alternator.

Tru dat! An alternator can easily put out 13.8 volts, but hardly any amps. As soon as you put a good load on it, it doesn't charge at all. Only way to properly test an alternator is with a carbon pile load tester.

97eXpo · Post by **97eXpo** » Thu Mar 27, 2008 12:28 pm

ughhhh, problem has reappeared as of today:( ill let u guys know what happens after i bring out the dmm

tipracer · Post by **tipracer** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 6:20 am

it sounds like the voltage regulator is going out....not sure if that vehicle has the ability to replace the regulator by itself, or if your best bet is to go to autozone and get one of theirs w/the lifetime warranty(i think they have that available), but as far as a cause it might be that when your system is hitting it might be drawing to many amps for the alt. to keep up with(making regulator work too hard...just a thought)...do you have a second battery or an upgraded primary???