Finally Preparing To Reinstall

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:32 pm

I started my box.

Last time I had a shop make my box to 1.8 cuft but this time I made my own...but it looks huge. It is def 1.8 which is what everyone recommends so I am hoping it sounds awesome. I still have to seal it with silicone on the inside, carpet it, and then figure out where on the car I am gonna anchor the box so the crooks can't get it easy if they ever come back.

I will be giving it 2 bridged channels of an RSd500.4 so it should sound pretty sweet as efficient as this sub is. It sounded decent when I was running 170 watts to it when I had an RSd dvc hooked up to 2 seperate channels of the 500.4 so this should be better.

I had a little trouble since I chose particle board and some of the screws were a tad bit close to the edges but overall I am pleased with the construction.

For security I was thinking of using a metal strap and bolting the strap onto the box and then bolting the strap somewhere on the car and also screwing the sub itself in with star or square screws....paranoia...yes indeed....heh, but Ill be damned if I let it get taken easily if it gets taken at all. Let me know if you guys have taken any security measures that might work better than this^^...I have a compustar spread spectrum alarm this time around but that just isn't enough as many of you may know if you have been in my position before.

Post by **stipud** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:42 pm

Particle board? Hope you've got lots of bracing in there buddy

I can't wait to see you get your install back.

Post by **Rold Gold** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:44 pm

Make sure to seal the inside of that particle board with some resine cus it'll leak air if ya don't.

For security, I bolt shit down. It sux to take out should ya need to but 9 times outta 10 it'll still be there after a break-in.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:45 pm

How should I brace it inside?

Damn I knew I shoulda just gone with mdf

.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:47 pm

I will just remake it next weekend in mdf...this one was a waste of energy...bummer.

Post by **stipud** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:58 pm

Phoenixcolt wrote:I will just remake it next weekend in mdf...this one was a waste of energy...bummer.

Nah man, Fuzzy's right... get some resin and coat the fucker! That will make a pretty stiff box

As an added trick, you can pour some into the corners, and stand it up at a 45 degree angle as it dries... the resin will pool, and make a really nice sealed corner.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:46 pm

Resin it is : ), I missed u guys...ez and awesome suggestions.

So besides the corners and 45 degree angles, do I just brush the resin on the rest of the inside?

And Id silicone over the cracks first and resin over the silicone right?...or just resin and more resin to seal it?

Post by **stipud** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 4:38 pm

If you resin the corners like that, you won't need any silicone (provided the resin doesn't just leak through your box like a seive).

Yeah, just coat the inside of the box. If you really want to, you can add some fiberglass chop mat to it, but that is probably overkill.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 4:42 pm

I can't wait to see the install! I hope you like your gear!

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 5:29 pm

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:I can't wait to see the install! I hope you like your gear!

I LOVE the gear, just been hesistating to put it back in since I got it cuz I'm a little scared to but I miss my full sound too much and I can't wait to get the vw back up to par....I am really psyched to get my comps back in, the coaxes r great but rnt doing it like I need them to, I need those beautiful comps and xovers back in there : ) .

I want to raise the hatch floor still and flush the amp and xovers a little but I am still trying to figure out a good way to do it.

I guess I could just cut the plywood to the hatch curves and get some 2x4s under it to raise it and just bolt the biotch down, I'm just a bit of a perfectionist and want to make sure I have a good plan tht will work well.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 5:55 pm

Maybe flush the amp, xovers, and voltmeter to one side and bolt down the sub to the frame on the other side but the kicker is I don't want to block the spare...oh this will be fun : ).

shaheen · Post by **shaheen** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:07 am

The only problem I can see is standing waves inside the box due to it's squarish construction.

Also pour rersin on the screws for additional safety and to prevent the box leaking from there

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:10 am

Just a little hint if you want to add a little security to your raised floor install.
Notice the gold circle between the TI and Xenon amp? It is a drawer lock that
you can get at any hardware store. I put a couple of those on my amp rack,
so that in order to get to the amps, you need the keys.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:40 am

dwnrodeo wrote:Just a little hint if you want to add a little security to your raised floor install.
Notice the gold circle between the TI and Xenon amp? It is a drawer lock that
you can get at any hardware store. I put a couple of those on my amp rack,
so that in order to get to the amps, you need the keys.

Sweet idea, so did u raise ur floor but not flush in the amps? R the amps bolted under the board?

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 9:55 am

I used the spare tire well to house the wiring and amp rack, but didn't flush
mount the amps because I didn't have room, and I couldn't access the controls
on the TI if I did that. The amps are bolted down with bolts and nylock nuts
so that you have to have access to the nylock nuts to get the bolts out. I also
used stainless steel straps for the drawer locks to lock on to.