PG titanium Elite 1200watts rms
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Go with the specs from the manual I linked you. The Ti Elite sub takes tons and tons of power to really get them going. You should still double check your wiring and connections it should sound louder than "500 watts" to the sub. If your box now is 1.0 cu. ft. then that is PG's specs for a SPL setup.selondontiburon wrote:So what ported box size should i get?! Would a ported deep Tube work?
Also: do a search for topics on this forum regarding this particular sub written by "brenzbmr@sb". He has a lot of useful info on the sub.
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Wow... you connected all three terminals together? You just sent 1500 watts (~77 volts) into 12 volt LEDs. They are probably fried now. I believe the LED terminal is on the bottom, while the two voicecoil terminals are on the top (someone correct me if I'm wrong, I can't find any useful info in the manuals). Just leave the LEDs disconnected, and make sure you wire + to +, - to -... then connect + to the + output of your amp, and - to -. Simple.
A box will make a HUGE difference in output. If it's using thin particleboard, leaks, and is the wrong size and shape... you will lose TONS of volume. First and foremost, the Elite is a monster woofer, so it requires a monster box. If you're considering using 3/4" MDF, you at least have to double up the faceplate, and add lots of interior bracing. Personally I would recommend you use 1" MDF and lots of braces. That woofer will perforate anything less. I would recommend you stick to the PG guideline for a "Musical" box. 2.75 cubic feet, with a 4" diameter port, 15" long.
Now, when you've got your monster box set up, you can worry about your monster amp. 4 gauge is the bare minimum to run that thing. You also have to make sure you have a 4 gauge ground with all paint scratched off underneath it. Up at the battery, you also need to add a 4 gauge ground between your battery and the frame, otherwise the current of your entire system is limited to that tiny wire that comes off your - terminal. I also strongly recommend you upgrade your alternator to battery wire to at least 4 gauge as well.
A box will make a HUGE difference in output. If it's using thin particleboard, leaks, and is the wrong size and shape... you will lose TONS of volume. First and foremost, the Elite is a monster woofer, so it requires a monster box. If you're considering using 3/4" MDF, you at least have to double up the faceplate, and add lots of interior bracing. Personally I would recommend you use 1" MDF and lots of braces. That woofer will perforate anything less. I would recommend you stick to the PG guideline for a "Musical" box. 2.75 cubic feet, with a 4" diameter port, 15" long.
Now, when you've got your monster box set up, you can worry about your monster amp. 4 gauge is the bare minimum to run that thing. You also have to make sure you have a 4 gauge ground with all paint scratched off underneath it. Up at the battery, you also need to add a 4 gauge ground between your battery and the frame, otherwise the current of your entire system is limited to that tiny wire that comes off your - terminal. I also strongly recommend you upgrade your alternator to battery wire to at least 4 gauge as well.
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- KHPower
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I really hope all that works out for you , the box,batt and cap but if your going to go through all that you might as well consider upgrading your alternator.
I woud bet running 1500 rms in a sealed 1 cf box would still produce more output then what you are saying. I have ran 1600 rms in a 1 cf enclosure and got sick output.
Take some pictures of how your sub is wired and post them
I woud bet running 1500 rms in a sealed 1 cf box would still produce more output then what you are saying. I have ran 1600 rms in a 1 cf enclosure and got sick output.
Take some pictures of how your sub is wired and post them

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Your sub should do this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AUH9clG ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AUH9clG ... re=related
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Yeah ive seen that, that must be shaking hes head off right?!
Well my box should be complete 2moro! which overall is 2.8 cubic ft! with a letterbox vent 1 inch thick mdf! i have a much better battery i got already 2night, which has 2 seperate terminals for bass etc etc, i havnt tryed to hook it up yet tho to see if the Protect light stops coming on!
Well my box should be complete 2moro! which overall is 2.8 cubic ft! with a letterbox vent 1 inch thick mdf! i have a much better battery i got already 2night, which has 2 seperate terminals for bass etc etc, i havnt tryed to hook it up yet tho to see if the Protect light stops coming on!
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One of these days I am going to have to get one of em to play around with.AVICJR wrote:Unfortunately the Ti Elite sub is extremely finicky. I have a Ti1200.1 on mine and it's still laughing at me.KHPower wrote:I woud bet running 1500 rms in a sealed 1 cf box would still produce more output then what you are saying. I have ran 1600 rms in a 1 cf enclosure and got sick output.
Do you think you could over power that beast, lets say 3000 rms? and get away with it

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Yes , most definitely . Some amps just need the right juice to provide the right juice.selondontiburon wrote:A quick question also, My amp IS good enough for this right?!

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Can i use a multi meter on the amp just at the point when the protection cuts in? Im guessing if it goes below 11-10v then its most def the problem right?! Also i dont know if this means much BUT when i did have a cap on my old 700watts amp the digital reading on the cap (when the bass hit hard said 10.2-10.8.. So im guessing as i now have a JUICY amp i would guess and say it must be dropping more like 9.5- 10, which is DEF TOO LOW!!!
- brenzbmr@sb
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well there is a problem, u have air leaks,
look trash that box.
second if u go sealed build it air tight.
go ported at teh recc musical enclosure.
you have a nuff power so dont worry about that, its your box thats killing u.
i would sit u in my car with my one elite and 800 watts and make u wet...
look trash that box.
second if u go sealed build it air tight.
go ported at teh recc musical enclosure.
you have a nuff power so dont worry about that, its your box thats killing u.
i would sit u in my car with my one elite and 800 watts and make u wet...
You may have subs in your car........but my doors sound better!
I had my TI Elite built with 1.5" MDF, braces and it was sealed...and it sounded good. Would have pounded harder if I had it ported. But the box alone w/out the sub weighed around 80 pounds!!!! W/out the SUB!!!!
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa63 ... ite%20sub/
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa63 ... ite%20sub/
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- capitolj80
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You may get a little windows flex but why dont you set your goals lower for the moment and First try the lighter trick(light a lighter and see if the bass knoicks out the flame)
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Well most of the power comes from your alternator but adding a better battery would help you out greatly. There are some great articles in the How to section of this website that will guide you on your journey.
The power of PG be with you.....
The power of PG be with you.....
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U really should build your box to pg spec for best performence...selondontiburon wrote:My box being made is near to 3 cubic feet, am i going TOO big? Or will that be perfect and kick ass?!
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
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I'm very sure it will take it. One of the car audio magazines wrote an article on the sub and I believe they were putting somewhere around 2400 watts to it, two amps, one per VC. I was contemplating buying an Exile X2400.1 to run mine.KHPower wrote:One of these days I am going to have to get one of em to play around with. Do you think you could over power that beast, lets say 3000 rms? and get away with it