Questions on my new system

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 8:11 am

Hey Guys,

I just ordered a TON of Phoenix Gold stuff, and a new Avic Fseries

I have some questions though.

1) I am pretty sure I am going to use a second Battery. Its for car shows etc. I am debating between the Kinetik HC800 or the Optima Yellow Top. The Kinetik is a touch cheaper. How do they stack up against eachother? Is the Kinetik a Deep Cycle? Is one better for my 90A stock alternator?

2) I have a RSD 500.4 and 1200.1 on the way. Do the accept 4gauge power/ground into the amp? Whats the beefiest gauge wire they will take? I am hoping for 12 or 14ga to be safe.

3) How many fuses does the 500.4 have, and what amperage? I know the 1200.1 is 3x40a.

4) I am going to use the 500.4 to do all 4 door speakers. However, I want an extra set of RSD65C components in the hatch. This will be used with a TV at shows. How can I use these on one of the amps, and have them turn on when the hatch is open, and off when closed? I mean, I know I can use a third amp and wire the remote wire to the hatch pin... but would prefer not to. Also if a solution is that the rears turn off when the hatch ones come on, thats viable!

Thanks
John

Post by **Bfowler** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:39 am

1 - i like the kinetic batter. i dont think it is a deep cycle, but it discharges VERY quickly, almost like a cap. do you have an isolator for it?

2 - all the RSD's accept 4awg power cable, and 10awg speaker wire

3 - im FAIRLY sure that its a 2 x 40 amp. we have th manuals in a stickied thread at the top of the car audio section

4 - gkitching or vw337 might have better input on this as they both lots of professional show car experience, but i would have a pin that is connected to a relay so when you open the hatch, it shuts off either the front or back speakers, and then switches to the hatch speakers

or you could always use deck power for them on a defeatable switch

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 12:08 pm

Thanks B!

I will be grabbing an isolator for sure. The local shop wanted $160 for one... no thanks! lol. I will take a look through the manual, but I dont recall them listing amperage, just to stay within what it comes with.

Another question... What size fuse should I use on the power wire (from positive to positive) between the two batteries?

Thanks
John

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:01 am

I am thinking a single-pole dual-throw relay inline with the speaker (+) would get the effect I want. just use the trunk light as the trigger..... ideas?

-John

Post by **Bfowler** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:22 am

^that should do the trick!

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:55 am

Sweet! My isolator is 200A/300A burst.

Should the fuse on the main Power wire be 300A then?

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 6:06 am

Slippin3 wrote:I am thinking a single-pole dual-throw relay inline with the speaker (+) would get the effect I want. just use the trunk light as the trigger..... ideas?

-John

You've got the right idea but you'll need to use dpdt relay in order to keep left and right seperated.

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 6:17 am

Hey Greg,

Thanks for the advice... but I am not sure I understand. My plan was to have the speaker wire for the rear L/R channels leave the amp.....

Inline with the RL (+) wire, have a SPDT Relay. This will allow me to switch bewteen the RL in the door and RL in the hatch. The same would be done on the RR side too. Would the AMP not distinguish left and right, and the relay simply switch between the two?

Cole's Notes:
I will be using two SPDT relays inline with the rear positives.

I guess a DPDT would work also, but I was buying off an online seller who had a bunch of SPDT on sale

Thanks
John W

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 6:30 am

Ahh .. yes .. my bad. If you are using two then that would work as well. The single dpdt relay would mean a little less wiring but the spdt's are more common and less $ so half dozen of one 6 of an other.

You could also leave the rear speakers on and just have the relays cut the trunk speakers on and off. The rear channels of the 500.4 can handle the 2ohm load while the trunk is open. That way the system inside doesn't change and can be demo'd whether the trunk is open or not.

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:18 am

Thats another idea too... hmmm....

If I do that, I can use a SPDT relay.... I would just leave the constan flow empty, and the triggered flow would then power the rear hatch speakers right?

If so, that may be the best way to do it. Less wiring is better in this app. It just so the rear hatch speakers will be on when the hatch is open... not a ton of use really.

-John

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:40 am

Exactly. And it can be installed anywhere along the line running to the trunk speakers. The relays just need to break contact with the speakers as you state.

Slippin3 · Post by **Slippin3** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:38 am

Sweet! Thanks for all the help! Relays are a lil new to me... nice to have someone confirm